Most recent activity
-
the first number denotes the rim joining technique e.g
717 is a 17mm rim and the 7 denotes it is a welded rim
317 is still a 17mm rim, 3 denotes the rim is pinned or bonded not welded (e.g 117<317<717XM819 is a 19mm rim, 8 series denotes its tubeless, XM is the range of xc/trail rims
EN/EX 521/321 are more burly all mountain/DH/FR destined rims.
I've ran 717s and 819s previously, laced on hope Pro2s, but have now gone for Stans Crests on hope pro3SP-XC3
-
-
-
-
-
Had a quick look and Magura are the only people I see making 2 piece rotors with the option of 6 bolt or centrelock for the centre section. Have a look here, http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=20750
Looks like you'd maybe have to buy a complete rotor in each type as they don't seem to be available as parts but this would give you a set up where you left the mount on each wheel and just changed the same braking surface between the wheels.they are floating rotors, lightweight aluminium spider riveted to the disc, it's designed to dissipate heat away from the braking surface quicker (aluminium dissipating heat quicker than steel) it's riveted to allow the spider to expand/contract quicker than the braking surface itself.
You would, as stated, have to buy individual rotors.
-



So, i have the same problem and it's driving me mad. Gets worse when you start slowing down too.
I'm running a 1/8th miche track sprocket, sram 1/8th SS chain, and a BrevM 1/8th chainring. Have tried less chain tension, degreased the chain, re-lubed it all to no avail :(