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Is this true with all hubs using these kind of fittings or just the home converted ones?
I reread that when checking that I was linking the right thread, and now I'm in two minds about it. I've had no issues in terms of thread reliability with 6Nm on M6 screws in Shimano hollow axles, which puts the clamping force in much the same region as a good closed cam QR. While neither can be considered properly safe with disc brakes (only a through axle is), there's not a big enough difference to conclusively commend one over the other as a stop gap while you save up for a safe fork.
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threaded hollow axles, secured with bolts
Any steel QR axle with a plain cylindrical ~5mm bore can be hand tapped M6 for securing bolts. That covers most cheap Shimano and generic models with 9mm, 10mm or ⅜" bearing cone threads.
There's a thread for that.
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Do the maths.
Flange PCD for true tangent spoking = cos (crossings/spoke holes × 720°) × ERD
For a 400mm ERD and 32H 3X, the limiting flange pitch circle diameter is about 153mm
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there was some doping going on at Telecom
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That means I should get a large, doesn't it?
With those numbers, I'd be more inclined to go with the medium.
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What are we cracking up at here? Adriana Macias?
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still use as a front hub?
Theoretically possible, but a PITA as the cones are M10 but you'd need M9 threads on the outer ends for front track nuts. With a lathe and a length of 10mm CrMo bar stock it would be easy enough, but paying somebody else to do it doesn't seem like the best use of your resources.
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Fitted a KMC B1 chain at the weekend and it's really noisy.
That's a feature, not a bug. I've always found bushed chains noisier than bushing less, regardless of brand. The only one which is quiet is the Wippermann 1Z1
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should be nice and stiff in the rear, which I think should more than make up for the extra weight
For all that weight makes a negligible difference, I've never seen any evidence that additional stiffness above the basic minimum provided by 531C isn't even less of an performance advantage.
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a 140mm weenie rotor should be useful
It might be useful, but putting dick breaks on a weight weenie HC bike is adding back most of the potential weight saving on the frame. Also, most crabon XC frames are going to be built for at least 80mm fork travel, so you either have a long fork (heavy) or drop a road fork in and get shit steering geometry and a 100mm+ BB drop. And where are these mythical cheap and light 26" frames anyway? A 5 year old Scott Scale RC is no lighter than a CAAD12 but no cheaper than a Hongfu
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