Avatar for Elkie


Member since Jun 2009 • Last active Jan 2014
  • 10 conversations

Most recent activity

  • in Birmingham
    Avatar for Elkie

    Yeah, he was a fairly young lad (18ish and I'm 26) so I think at first he thought I was just trying to mug him for it or something. He was much more reasonable when I'd spoke to him a bit more though, seemed like a good lad really. Gave me his address and offered to show me to his house. Would be nice to get it back but like I say, I don't really need it and it was in fairly bad shape. Might just let it slide, I don't know.

  • in Birmingham
    Avatar for Elkie

    Guys I need some advice please....

    Yesterday whilst walking to meet a friend I saw someone on my bike! I couldn't beleive my eyes, it's been over a year since I lost it and I expected it to have been hacked to pieces now, but I saw someone riding it in pretty much the same state it was stolen in! (albeit with a little more rust...)
    Obviously I apprehended the guy, told him it was my bike and at first he said it couldnt be cause he had had it for years. after talking to him a bit more he said that he'd moved into another house on Tiverton Road, the bike was in the house when he moved in and the landlord said he could have it with the property. The guy seemed pretty genuine, and as I had no evidence that it was actually my bike, I didnt want to just take it off him, so I asked for his landlords number, called him and arranged to discuss this further with him tonight.

    The only issue for me is that I have no proof that the bike is actually mine, I dont have a photo or anything and I never reported this to the police (after having bikes stolen in the past, it hardly seemed worth it...)

    Have I got a leg to stand on, or should I just let it slide and take it as a lesson learnt? I have since replaced the bike, so I don't really need it, but it's just the principle really... but am I likely to get a positive result when it's effectively his word against mine?

    Thanks a lot guys!

  • in Mechanics & Fixin'
    Avatar for Elkie

    You want the larger, "standard" size.

    Awesome, thought that was the case but just wanted to check. Thanks a lot!

  • in Mechanics & Fixin'
    Avatar for Elkie

    This is the kind of bolt you're after if you want to convert your rear brake to front, nut fitting.


    I've not seen many people go for 606's solution, although I'm not sure why. Maybe the bolt on the (old) rear is so short that it barely comes through the front of the fork, which leaves you with a lot of force at the small overlap between the sleeve nut and bolt. Essentially you may end up with a similar problem to if you just put a standard nut on the inside of the steerer.

    Thanks a lot, this is what I had in mind, it's nearly twice the price of an extended sex bolt though so I'll probably go with that! Yeah I think I've been relatively lucky as the front brake has enough thread on the bolt for a nut to get decent purchase, although I'd rather do this on the cheap, I'm not really prepared to sacrifice safety to save a few quid - especially with brakes!

  • in Mechanics & Fixin'
    Avatar for Elkie

    I meant getting one of these (it'll involve drilling the forks though), rather than putting a nut inside the fork. Though if you get a nylock nut, I see no reason why that won't work.


    I don't know why I hadn't thought of a longer sex bolt for the front caliper, this looks like a simple and elegant solution. Thanks a lot! :D

  • in Mechanics & Fixin'
    Avatar for Elkie

    Calipers aren't expensive necessarily. Think before you remove steel from your frame. There's appropriate hardware out there.

    Yeah, but they are more expensive than zero. This is a well documented method of installing recessed brakes on an older frame, I'm just querying specifics rather than asking for alternatives.

    If you put your front brake on the rear, does the thread stick out enough for you to put a nut on it? If it does you could then put the rear on the front. This will involve drilling out the rear of the fork (easier than the rear brake hole), and getting an extra long internal bolt.

    Yeah, it does, this is what I'm currently doing. Unfortunately I want to use both brakes, so this leave me without a brake for the front. Running the rear on the front isn't an option, as putting the nut inside the steerer tube simply isn't safe in my eyes.

    Or, you could take the brakes apart and replace the bolts with longer ones, which'll work with the old-style frame holes.

    Hadn't thought of this to be honest, this could be an option. Still means sourcing suitable bolts though, which could be tricky as there's not much clearance for the top arm over the bolt head, and again, it means buying stuff - I'd rather drill this and not spend money on anything (however cheap).

    Thanks for trying though guys!

  • in Mechanics & Fixin'
    Avatar for Elkie

    I think I'm right in saying (and I'm holding the fort here til someone better arrives) don't drill your frame. Just buy the appropriate brake with nut and bolt attachment as opposed to the Alan key - recessed nut system you describe.

    Cheers for the reply man, but I'm pretty sure I wanna run these brakes - I have them already, they are fairly decent dual pivot brakes, and drilling a hole is gonna be a whole (geddit?) lot less expensive than buying a new set of brakes.

    I've read a lot about people drilling out their brake mounts, but the only problem is not being able to drill from the underneath!

  • in Mechanics & Fixin'
    Avatar for Elkie

    Hi guys,

    Just a couple of quick, simple questions for you...

    I'm looking to go from fixed to freewheel, but there's a couple of bits I'm unsure on...

    1. what size thread freewheel do I buy? I know in BMX there's "standard" 15-16t thread, and then a smaller "flip flop" 13-14t thread... which one will fit my fixed/free hub?

    2. I want to add a rear brake, but my frame has the old style mountings where the holes are both the same size. It's going to be awkward to drill out the rear hole from inside the rear triangle due to the proximity of the seatstays and seat tube, but can I just simply drill through from the front and then use a washer over the front hole? This seems like such a simple solution to this problem, and I can't see why it wouldn't work, but I've never seen anyone mention it whilst searching the web, so I just wanted to make sure there was not a glaringly obvious reason why I shouldn't do this before I write off my frame.

    Thanks for the help guys!