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Member since Oct 2007 • Last active Oct 2019

Endurance idiot.

Most recent activity

  • in Current Projects
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    It's place at top of the pecking order in the house has just been usurped.

  • in Miscellaneous and Meaningless
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    Don't overthink.

    Borrow one if you can, try it out keeping it downstairs, see how it affects things over the course of a week or so.

    The worse the airflow in your house the worse the condensation will be, but then the less you need to care about placement of the dehumidifier.

  • in Miscellaneous and Meaningless
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    I got a Blyss 10L dehumidifier from B&Q. £100 odd.

    3 bed flat (2 adults, 1 kid), all on one floor (converted house) so it wasn't designed to be chopped up and blocked up as it is, airflow not great (bathroom has no extractor fan for example, no airbricks of note, main house stairwell blocked up and doored off, etc)

    We dry clothes inside year round (access to outside is a pain in the arse)

    Dehumidifier required from mid-September to mid-March as we can't have the windows open as we can in summer as it just gets too cold

    Generally have it on whenever anyone is home and we can move it into whichever room has washing in or has condensation on the windows (front windows double glazed, rear windows not all double glazed)

    Never leave it on when not in (but one of us is generally in 5/7 days a week)

    Don't leave it on at night (we could but just never have needed to)

    Noise wouldn't be a problem if in a room with a closed door, without a closed door in between you can hear the general hum it but it doesn't bother me (and I work from home 2-3 days a week). Don't know what it's like for the downstairs neighbour but he's never said anything (and he would if it annoyed him)

    Apr-Sep the sensor tells me it's roughly 50% relative humidity indoors and no condensation and no damp feeling in the air

    When we start to feel we need to use it then it's usually reading ~60%

    With a fresh load of washing drying it can go to over 70%

    It occasionally looks at my slightly menacingly but has never killed me (yet)

    If it's on for 12h then I'll have to empty the 2L collection tray thing twice a day, so it's performing close its rated capacity of 10L/day.

    For running costs, I'd say it's on roughly half the time between September and March, so that's half of half a year. It's rated at taking 200W so on the basis that 1W per year = £1 (see cals below[1]) that means it's costing us £50 a year, plus it kicks out a bit of warm air so part of that also reduces heating costs (although it won't be efficient).

    It's certainly cheaper than buying/running a washer-dryer and is also sorts out the condensation that we'd inevitably get if we didn't ever dry clothes inside, something a washer-dryer couldn't do

    1. Electricity is roughly 12p per kWh. So 1W for an entire year = 8.76kWh. 8.76 * 0.12p = £1.05
  • in Miscellaneous and Meaningless
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    I can see plenty of Forerunner 220 on eBay (used) going for £50. If you liked it it's probably a cheaper replacement than something brand new.

    (Obviously a gamble if there is a problem with batteries.)

    Another option is asking Garmin how much it would be for a refurbished replacement (assuming you send you old one in). That's how I got my latest HRM-Tri belt for half price when the old one died from 3 years of (ab)use.

  • in General
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    Unlikely pairing causes a problem at the API/server level. There should (but who knows what goblinry lurks there) be no interaction with the servers during the pairing process (maybe after a successful pairing).

    My guess is that people who don't have any sensors hit the pairing button because it's not clear that they don't have to, because they don't know any better, and it causes crashes because it's shitly written.

    Rather than fix the bugs they're using it as a crap excuse to remove some functionality they don't really want to have to continue to maintain.

    I guess they just want people to use a different device (Garmin/TomTom/Fitbit/Suunto/Apple watch/cycle-computer/etc) to deal with the difficult ANT+/BLE stuff and then Strava (the website) just receives the data that is uploaded. The app is then just for people who aren't interested in smart watches/devices and who just want to log a run/cycle, or for people to browse the feed and show off to others.

  • in Miscellaneous and Meaningless
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    The Bourne films are vastly superior to the total fucking dreck that Ludlum wrote

    The 8? Eric Van Lustbader sequels (to the original trilogy) are no better.

  • in General
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    They're burning VC money, not generating enough income as everyone has told them in no uncertain terms to fuck off putting adverts or other crap in their feed, have found that anonymised aggregated data being sold to cities doesn't fund a pre-IPO lifestyle, don't have anything compelling enough to pay significantly more for, and now they're trying to downsize.

    Wouldn't be surprised if they get bought out by someone else in a fire sale in 12-24 months.

  • in Miscellaneous and Meaningless
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    UEFA haven't done anything yet but the Bulgraian Prime Minister has told the chief of the Bulgarian FA he should quit.

  • in Miscellaneous and Meaningless
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    Can anyone identify this movie?

    At least 10 years old (I think).
    The lead star is drugged and taken to (engage movie voice) a facility so secure that no-one has ever escaped.
    Upon making the last part of his escape he opens a hatch to finally see daylight only to find himself on a small platform in the middle of the ocean with nothing in sight.

    It's not Prison Break (the TV series) or Escape Plan (the film with Stallone and Schwarzanegger). Nor is it anything to do with Alcatraz.


  • in Rides & Races
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    Not having my front light suddenly run out of juice again during a fast descent in the pitch dark at 4am is worth quite a bit to me. Did not enjoy that.

    I've had my dynamo light fail on a descent (a combination of water ingress and hitting a bump in the road), that's not fun either.

    Having one light (whatever type it is) is a single point of failure.

    For LEL/PBP length rides I had two 4xAA powered B&M Ixon lights. Most of the time having one on, on low, was good enough for night riding, sometimes I'd need to move it to the higher setting if I was in the sticks and moonlight wasn't good enough. On descents I'd generally have one light on low and one on high.

    It also meant that if the batteries started to go in one (I could easily see the LED doing its red/green flashing) I'd move to the other light being the primary and then I could change the batteries at the next control.

    For the qualifying rides (or just other Audaxes) I did prefer a dynamo setup but those rides (well, PBP at least) require a backup lighting system to be shown at the bike inspection. Some times you can just get away with wafting another light under the inspectors nose but being risk averse I just went for a dual light setup and it was waved through without question.