Avatar for Sealclub


Member since Apr 2021 • Last active Oct 2021
  • 2 conversations

Most recent activity

  • in Bikes & Bits
    Avatar for Sealclub

    Thanks, that means I will probably have a local framebuilder drill through holes on the bridges so that I can use nylstop nuts instead of having to rely on loctite. A little less pretty but I don't want to have to use a q-tip and acetone each time I remove my mudguards.

    @motoko : I've been looking for this article for a while, but I can't manage to find this issue in France (BQ 34 I believe?), and I don't think they're available online. Any chance you could tell me what JP Weigle recommends when it comes to leather washers? Does he put them between the mudguard and the bridge exclusively, or does he also put one under between the bolt and the mudguard?

  • in Bikes & Bits
    Avatar for Sealclub

    I might try plumber tape to see how it fares!

    I don't think the loctite (I'm using 243) or the threads are the problem, I keep reading that you're supposed to clean the threads when reapplying some. I'll try to find the one you mention, but that might be hard as I'm in mainland Europe.

  • in Bikes & Bits
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    Same problem no? Would have to reapply each time I put the mudguards back on, I think it gets shredded when you screw the bolt once.

  • in Bikes & Bits
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    This is probably hard to find in the wall of text, but I tried blue loctite and it isn't working.

    I might have to clean the thread thoroughly with acetone each time I remove the bolt? Again, this isn't ideal, the plan is to be able to easily switch between endurance road bike with 700c wheels and fenders and 650b gravel bike without fenders, and I don't want to have to clean each eyelet with acetone everytime I do that.

  • in Bikes & Bits
    Avatar for Sealclub

    I'm having a lot of thoughts about mudguards right now, let me share my anxieties all at once :

    1°) Stainless steel mudguards noise :
    I fitted Berthoud stainless steel mudguards on my bike (the ones that are epoxied black).
    They look pretty, but they make very sketchy noises when the road is ever so slightly bumpy. I’m never sure if it’s coming from my steel bike or the mudguards, and I don’t need this kind of stress on rides. They aren’t mounted with any rubber washer, as I’m a little strapped for space in the rear triangle. They might also be under a bit of tension : they’re 50 mm and I’m running 32 mm tyres, so I have to push the rear part in quite a bit to have a nice fender line.

    Is this noise unavoidable with stainless steel mudguards, even when mounted with rubber washers everywhere? This is not about stuff hitting the inside of the mudguards by the way, just the mudguard making lots of noise when vibrating. I’m considering moving to SKS longboards for this sole reason. I’m very happy with them on my commuter, they’ve been completely quiet so far.

    2°) SKS Quick release :
    Speaking of SKS, can their automatic stay release be used as a quick release, or is it solely a security feature made to be used once or twice ? I’m having thoughts about QR full coverage mudguards using fidlocks and the SKS stay release.

    3°) Has anybody found a way to reliably prevent loosening of mudguards screws ?
    My nice bike has vertical threaded eyelets at the chainstay bridge, the seatstay bridge and under the fork crown. Again, this looks nice, but I’m not a fan functionality wise. Through holes instead would be better and allow me to use nylstop nuts, which have been perfect for me in the past. For some reason, blue loctite isn’t working. I remove my mudguards periodically, maybe the threads are dirty and loctite isn’t sticking to anything ? Serrated washers have never worked for me. I have never tried wedge lock washers (would they work on plastic mudguards though?). I also have considered simply putting tape on the bolts, maybe that would prevent them from turning, and thus loosening ?

    All suggestions are welcome !

    4°) Attaching mudguards to seatstays :
    I am looking for a way to attach fenders struts on the seatstays, as my bike currently has hidden eyelets on the inside of the seatstays, which are a pain in the ass. P-clamp are the obvious answer, but I’m looking for something which wouldn’t have to be removed when I remove the fenders. I considered using a Tubus clampset, which has two holes, but alas the smallest diameter they have is 14 mm, while the seatsays’ diameter is only 10 mm. Will I be able to bend them to fit nicely around my seatsays ?
    I will eventually have eyelets brazed on the dropouts, as God intended, but in the meantime I’m looking for a temporary fix.

  • in Mechanics & Fixin'
    Avatar for Sealclub

    Thanks both for your help! I asked Hunt directly as @farewell suggested, they confirmed that what I have aren't the right adapters, I need a whole axle, basically. They also told me my wheels are Superdura V1, if anybody with the same problem stumbles upon this thread.

    Thanks @hippy for the offer, but this is just a temporary replacement while the other wheel is getting fixed, it'll probably arrive too late (I'm in mainland Europe)! I've been riding the nice bike with a backpack, and it's been ok so far.

  • in Mechanics & Fixin'
    Avatar for Sealclub

    Broke too many spokes on the rear wheel of my commuter bike. While said wheel is being repaired, I'm trying to fit the Superdura wheel from the good bike on the commuter.

    For that, I need to swap the Superdura from TA to QR. Problem is that I bought them second-hand, the seller included a bunch of doodads but no user manual, Hunt tutorials are kinda vague, and I'd like to know if I actually need to strip the hub completely to change the axle.

    Here is what I'm working with :
    Drive side

    Non-drive side

    And this is what I believe are the adapters?

    The adapters fit on the end caps as is, but then the hub ends up being at least (totally eyeballing it here) 1 cm too large.

    All I could find on Hunt's website was this video but it looks like none of the parts they're showing look remotely like my (alleged) adapters. Not sure if I have a v1 or v2 Superdura as well.

    Any idea on how to proceed?

  • in Wanted Adverts
    Avatar for Sealclub

    I'm looking for a black Carradice Lightweight Audax / Super C Audax, shipped to France.

    Also interested in buying your Bagman Sport SQR if you want to get rid of it with the bag.