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Sealclub

Member since Apr 2021 • Last active Nov 2022
  • 3 conversations
  • 158 comments

Most recent activity

  • in Current Projects
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    I am a bit confused as I know Di2, but not EPS. Let me know if I'm getting that correctly: you can fit the cable through the hole from the outside, but then you're left with a connector that you can't reach, somewhere in the middle of the chainstay.

    If I got that right, I have two suggestions :

    • if that big connector can fit through the hole, which don't you add an extension cable, and then feed the whole thing through? Alternatively, if it is possible to disconnect the cable from the battery, use that instead? This seems obvious so I'm sure there's a reason it won't work, but I'm curious to know why!
    • Make two tools out of a wire hanger. What I have in mind is a long straight section, with a loop at the end that could go behing the connector, so you can hold it in place. Then, same tool for the cable coming from the battery, so you can push the connector from the battery into the one from the derailleur inside the chainstay. If that's not clear I can make a basic drawing, let me know!
  • in Current Projects
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    You can't re-radius stainless steel mudguards anyway. I've tried with no success, and emailed Berthoud about that, who confirmed that without specialized tools you can't re-radius them like you can with aluminium ones.

    And don't mount them with stress like I did (i.e. don't push or pull them into place with the struts), they will crack.

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    Re-read it once or twice, I'm sure you'll figure it out!

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    Don't you dare disrespect Homogenic like that!

    Atopos struck me as very self-caricatural though, even though I don't dislike it. Biophilia left me with the same impression. I haven't listened to her work since, so I might be terribly wrong, but I feel the very minimalist production puts the emphasis on her vocal idiosyncrasies, which makes every recent song of hers sound very similar and, as written above, caricatural.

  • in Bikes & Bits
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    For commuting or as a backup, very happy with my Cateye GVolt 50 on the front and Lezyne Strip Drive Pro on the rear, and I tend to be very particular when it comes to bike stuff. Let me know if you need a full review. They're not exactly small though, so as a backup for audax I just take a dainty Decathlon light and hope for the best.

  • in Bikes & Bits
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    An option to consider might be the Elkhorn by Old Man Mountain.

  • in Bikes & Bits
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    Thanks a lot for your input! If the framebuilders I got in touch with can stay in that price range, that'd be a huge relief.

  • in Bikes & Bits
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    (Sorry if there's a better thread for this, wasn't sure where to put it).

    My very shitty year doesn't look like it's ending anytime soon. Today, I rear-ended a car that stopped abruptly in front of me (my fault entirely, I know) and completely destroyed the downtube of my high-end steel frame, and, I assume, the toptube as well (though it doesn't show any visible dent, it looks ever so slightly bent, so it probably is).

    Did any of you have a front triangle completely replaced (without any modification to the geometry), and if so, how much did it cost? Please let me know whether your price includes paint.

    I'm currently very broke and unemployed, so I'm trying to evaluate my options, i.e. will I be able to afford a repair in a semi-distant future, and is it even interesting financially vs buying a whole new frame.

    I've sent a flurry of emails to local (i.e. French) framebuilders, but they generally take a while to reply. As my brain is racing through the options, it'd help if I could have an idea of the average cost of the repair right now.

    Tubing was Velospec 75, with the following characteristics :
    Top tube 28,6mm - Velospec 75 - 0.7/0.4/0.7 mm
    Down tube 38,1mm - 0.7/0.4/0.7mm
    Head tube 44 mm - CrMo CNC

    Frameset (CK headset and noname carbon fork included) was 1594€ (in December 2020, when I bought it), if that matters.

  • in Bikes & Bits
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    So, after rambling in the bikepacking thread, I'm seriously considering adding a rear rack to my audax bike. Something like a Tubus Fly, mounted on standard eyelets. I'll be using micro-panniers (I'll probably have to make them myself), and I don't think the load will exceed 5 kg (and will probably bit a fair bit less).

    Will this change the supposedly magical ride quality of my high-end steel frame? Because of either the weight itself, or the fact that the rack itself might stiffen the rear triangle (not sure if that can actually play a role!).

    Here are the tubing specs, for those with a lot of framebuilding experience :

    • Top tube 28,6mm - Velospec 75 - 0.7 x 0.4 x 0.7 mm
    • Seat Tube 28,6mm - Velospec 75 - 0.85 x 0.6 mm
    • Down tube 38,1mm - Velospec 75 - 0.7 x 0.4 x 0.7mm
    • Head tube 44 mm - CrMo CNC
    • Chain Stays - CrMo - 425 mm length
    • Seat Stays - CrMo - 10 x 0.9 mm

    Here's what it looks like, except I've had standard rear rack eyelets brazed on the dropouts and at the top of the seatstays (and I have a generic carbon fork). As you can see, the seatstays are very thin.

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