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disq

Member since Sep 2019 • Last active Sep 2021
  • 10 conversations
  • 485 comments

Most recent activity

  • in Bikes & Bits
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    threadandspoke(.com) is not bad, US based though

  • in Bikes & Bits
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    Garmin is having a "birthday sale" (yeah sure, or maybe pre Apple Event sale?) and the Edge 1030 PLUS is reduced to £379. Considering I got my 830 for £350 last year, a pretty good deal... https://buy.garmin.com/en-GB/GB/p/704417­

    I might be selling an Edge 830 soon... if the 1030+ is not too big for me that is.

  • in Bikes & Bits
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    Through my adventures I found that pinchy, scissors type (edit: "shearing" is the word I was looking for) cutters (at least the 10 quid type ones) to be useless as they don't seem to cut straight. "Jagwire Spaceage Hydraulic Hose Cutter" seems to do the job for me, can be had for about the same price (well, £12) from Bezos with next day delivery as well.

  • in Mechanics & Fixin'
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    Continued from here https://www.lfgss.com/comments/16155834/­

    SRAM Paceline rotors are bad if you're doing the CenterLock thing. The interface is a loose fit on my DT240EXP and no amount of torque fixed it in my case. I've taken them off and mounted DA rotors (from Germany as that's where I could only find stock) instead. Maybe should've stuck with Centerline XRs, but the provided rotors were 160 and not 140.

    Turns out the fins on the DA rotors create a problem with the Force callipers and I went through better part of my brake pads in a two day (<200km) Bath trip. It was noisy (gobble sound as the wheel rotates and the pads hit the fins) and squishy. Lightly used DA rotors will go on sale as soon as I find the urge to clean and photograph them.

    So instead of faffing with spacers/washers to get the callipers at the right angle (which might've also led to poor brake perf) I had to spend more to get 140mm XR rotors and replace the dead pads also (Swiss Stop this time, not because I like them but because SRAM/Avid was OOS as always...)

  • in Rides & Races
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    So it has been more than a year since the first #NoGravel ride... Too long I say :-)

  • in Bikes & Bits
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    Is there any other computer to consider in the sub-£180 or less range from the other big brands or AliX?

    Bryton maybe? Lots of people are using it and seem to be satisfied

  • in Bikes & Bits
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    GRX is fine (it's so filled up compensates just fine) but my Ultegras were all eB** second hand (levers and callipers empty of mineral oil, new hoses, etc) it was a long process to get the bubbles out and not all came out... Internal hose routing didn't help as front one was easier.

    With SRAM and the expensive bleeding kit (since DOT is supposed to be serious I went ahead and purchased the "Pro Bleed Kit" with two massive syringes and spare o-rings etc) it was a breeze to set up. Just clean up any drops with water and rag.

    edit: Also with Red and Force callipers/levers it's supposed to be better with less/no air getting in from the ports.

  • in Bikes & Bits
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    Have both AXS (mostly Force, with Red arms/cassette) and GRX Di2 on two separate bikes. GRX ergonomics are good, extra buttons are welcome, but what's up with that noise? Even rear shifting is so noisy (servo/gear noise) is my bike doing the robot???

    I've set up both systems myself:

    • Di2 cable, even heatshrunk to the hydro hose is fugly. The grommet keeps popping up by itself. And I don't ride it that much either, it usually sits weeks on end, waiting for rad gravel friends which never come (sad face) or are off doing stuff in Epping.
    • It's a hassle to bleed Shimano hydro in general, can't seem to get rid of all the bubbles with ease. Not the same with AXS and DOT fluid so far. I'm lucky that I purchased GRX with hoses/levers/callipers pre-filled so no serious bleeding was necessary at the start, but my previous Ultegra setup was a nightmare to get right.
    • Dropped the chain on the FD with AXS just once so far, and it was partly my fault. Shifting is crisp and quiet. 12sp is unnecessary but I'll live with it. Force flattop chain isn't extremely expensive at <30 quid a pop. Setup was easy.
    • SRAM Paceline rotors are bad if you're doing the CenterLock thing. The interface is a loose fit on my DT240EXP and no amount of torque fixed it in my case. I've taken them off and mounted DA rotors (from Germany as that's where I could only find stock) instead. Maybe should've stuck with Centerline XRs, but the provided rotors were 160 and not 140.
    • I still have some (3 or 4 I think, as backup) bleed screws for Shimano, made of butter. Also have a specific Wera allen key (Hex Plus) just for the butter screws. Just in case.


    10-day edit: Don't use DA rotors with SRAM callipers, doesn't really work. https://www.lfgss.com/comments/16170447/­

  • in Bikes & Bits
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    Get on the list people, 15 rims so far, halfway there.

    Good progress, 30 is a huge rimjob. Do I understand it correctly that everybody is getting rims rather than complete wheels? What's the reasoning, are you merely purchasing carbon backups? Wheel lacing should be fine & cheap from the Orient...

  • in Miscellaneous and Meaningless
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    Obviously it's super easy to leave the paint section - minimise/close /open some thing else/etc.

    Resize the window to exceed the visible area, using the keyboard? I used to do this trick on Win3.1 I think. Step by step:

    • First manually maximise the upper part of the window, by resizing it to fit the top part of the screen
    • Use ALT+Spacebar to open "shortcut menu" (internet search tells me this is the shortcut) It might also be possible to access it with a right-click in the taskbar, not sure
    • Select the "Move" option (I always did this with arrow keys and Enter)
    • Using keyboard arrow keys move the top of it offscreen slightly (up up up) so the app title bar is not visible any more, and window decoration buttons are inaccessible. So no more minimise/maximise/close buttons nor the app icon/shortcut menu (the one on the top left)
    • Hit the Enter key to finish moving
    • Using the mouse, resize the bottom part of the window to cover the remaining display area
    • Auto-hide taskbar? (Maybe relocate it to the right side of the screen or the top, so it's less in the way)
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