Avatar for paulbiche


Member since Dec 2017 • Last active Feb 2020
  • 5 conversations

Most recent activity

  • in Miscellaneous and Meaningless
    Avatar for paulbiche

    I think I asked already (but not 100% sure), anyone have good car-related podcasts in mind? I have been enjoying the Collecting Cars podcast width Lovett/Harris, I will try the Smoking Tire, but welcome for any recommendations!

  • in Current Projects
    Avatar for paulbiche

    there is indeed probably an explanation. most sensible one would be something is preventing the headset to operate 100% correctly (ovalized headtude, bad facing, misalignment, etc.); I just had limited tools or means to control what is wrong.
    But if it rides okay and you won't go down a mountain with the bike full of luggage, I'd say live with it ha ha ha

  • in Current Projects
    Avatar for paulbiche

    Had a similar issue with a frame. Tried 2 different forks, 3 different headsets, and all the combinations of both components, never got rid of the tigh point on one side. head tube doesn't seem to be damaged or anything but I'm no expert.
    Riding it as it is, not causing any significant problem, can ride it also no-handed (but feels not 100% stable to be fair), but never understood the cause and drove me crazy

  • in Wanted Adverts
    Avatar for paulbiche

    Looking for a black chris King headset, 1" threaded (Gripnut or 2Nut indifferently).

    Preferably black writing, not worried about cosmetic condition as long as it is 100% mechanically good.

    Shoot me a PM if you have one!

  • in Frame Builders
    Avatar for paulbiche

    Hmmm I see didn't think of that one, that could be quite neat and that's a great idea! I'll see if I can propose to framebuilding company or see what they suggest. Thanks!

  • in Frame Builders
    Avatar for paulbiche

    Yes that is a completely stupid design IMO as it is "destructive" but it is like it is.
    Hmm interesting idea, post is 26.0 so maybe with a 25.4 seatpost, that leaves room for a shim of 0.3mm thickness.
    Maybe even a stem shim (as 25.4 to 26 is quite common for stem/bars) could work to reinforce? Since the shim is already split in two parts that plays the role of the relief panel maybe?

    Obviously having the frame modified would be much neater and much more robust (despite the paint destroy), I would prefer that, but I can't see how the framebuilder could slot the seattube and add a thread clamp thing considering the low amount of seat tube protruding of the top tube, Or maybe by adding a sleeve within that protrude higher and then do the slot/clamp thing?

  • in Frame Builders
    Avatar for paulbiche

    Yes indeed, that is why I was a bit worried as the screw is "pinching" (not sure the term is correct, I think it would be a grub screw in english) directly the seatpost, I didn't want to destroy the seatpost (it leaves quite some marks as the seatpost is in aluminium and the screw in steel). Therefore the idea would be to have a less destructive design haha
    This clamp design was vastly used here in France on MBK frames ; the one I have was a specific paintjob for a pro team back in the 90's (MBK Vetta or Chazal, can't remember exactly and I'm no expert) I've just changed the fork for a straight one
    EDIT: base model name for this design was "MBK Mirage", and it has funny aspects like the top tube that changes shape towards seat tube.
    With OG fork it kind of looked like that (in less better conditions)

  • in Bikes & Bits
    Avatar for paulbiche

    Any recommended tire in 650B format, 35 mm width, that rolls acceptably and have decent puncture protection?
    Currently have Michelin Wild Run'r but would like an upgrade ; have the Rivendells Nifty Swifty on another bike, but they are 34 mm wide and they "feel" a little small, but 35 is the limit.
    What would anyone recommend? Purchase another set of Rivendells Nifty Swifty?

  • in Frame Builders
    Avatar for paulbiche

    Not quite sure the place is the right one to ask, but i'll try my luck.
    I have a frameset that have a clamp of the seatpost that probably not the most robust design:

    There is a screw at the end of the top tube that lock the seatpost in place.
    A closer look:

    I was afraid to overtighten it, and at the end of a ride it slipped and the seatpost went down the seat tube (hopefully, it was at the end of the ride near my place). I re-set the height and tighten the screw quite a bit more, and it hasn't moved since (but I've not rode it much).

    Is there any solution to this? I have a framebuilding company not far, so I'll probably ask them but as it is on appointment only and with a 45mn drive, I reckoned it was interesting to ask on here before.

    What would be the potential solutions to have a better seatpost holding solution?
    Change the complete seat tube (but would be a pain I believe since it go through the top tube)?
    Manufacture a seatpost with an expander (like a stem)?
    Buy a steel seatpost (if that's even a thing), tighten the screw hard and not worry about it?

    Thanks in advance for any ideas!