Most recent activity
-
My man!
Will you replace the headtube entirely or just add onto the top of it?
-
Unfortunately the rear spacing is 135 which I guess will limit me a little?
Not really. There're plenty of nice mtb hubs out there. It was just if it'd been 130mm then a road hub would have been a good fit. If you want a singlespeed specific hub then theres Hope and King cassette hubs or ton's for screw on freewheels, Paul, Surly, Spot, just depends what your budget it.
-
I'm pretty certain our coaches have stopped them going on on the grounds of them being too treaded on the shoulder.
-
Maybe I should just get a pair of the rigid zaffiro slicks for now?
Best bang for your buck. They do need a bit more prepping than they used to, clean with spirits, bit of a scuff up with sandpaper and snip/pull the little mold 'pubes' off on the right hand side so they don't get under your contact patch and roll around when you're going slow.
-
When I was doing tig at the nightclass I did I was always thinking I'd like to try one of those big cups you see a lot of tig welders using. I reckoned you could rest the cup on the metal and having that sort of pivot point would make it easier to keep the tungsten out the puddle.
-
So, oxy propane peeps, what sort of supply pressure settings and flame sizes are you using? Oh and nozzle/tip sizes too?
I've been using the smaller of the tips that came with the Weld-Equip kit, think its a #3, I've been setting my regulators to give me between 1 and 2 bar supply pressure and I've been using a flame that's probably about 10-15mm inner cone with the feathery outer flame around it.
Matt from Rothair Cycles had me over to his workshop yesterday for a wee fillet lesson and he has his (oxy/acet) torch set up so differently.
He was using a higher supply pressure, 4 bar I think, a #1 tip (though he did say he'd sometimes use a larger tip for fillets) and an absolutely tiny flame, like 3mm of inner cone probably. His torch was almost silent whereas mine is roaring when I'm using it.
I did a fillet at Matt's last night and while there was still plenty to be working on, it was the neatest joint I've made yet by quite a margin.
I'm hoping I can get a couple practice miters filed while I'm at work today and can have a bash at brazing them with my torch set up more like his tonight but I'm worried that I'll not be able to replicate what I did last night with my cooler oxy/pro flame.
I also found it interesting last night that Matt purges his pipes at the end of a brazing session but doesn't touch his regulators. I'm sure I'd read that it was good practice to back the ajusters off till there was no resistance felt so I've been doing this after every session. Matt also has a day job at Shand by the way so I presume they must be treating their regulators similarly, makes me think what I'm doing is a bit ott.
-
Can anyone point me in the direction of a simple guide to disc brake mount dimensions?
Or explain this Peter Verdone one to me (my brain doesn't really seem to be working when I look at it)?
Edit: NM, a wheel/hub with a rotor attached is going to be the easiest way for me to position the mount I think.
-
Opportunities to go all colonial and wrong but channel 4 are generally OK with that kind of stuff...
-
I know they do 60/65mm guards, I have the 26" version, just hadn't seen the 20" ones for sale in that size anywhere.
Might be worth mentioning though that I'm really not a fan of the 26" x 65mm ones. I think the weight of that big a guard is too much for the wee skinny steel stays so I found they bounced around and rattled and rubbed really badly.
700c versions will surely be heavier and with even longer stays so I don't think they'd be something I would want to use.
And yeah, coverage on the 26" x 65mm ones is rubbish, defnitely need a flap.
And just so its not a whinge about SKS guards in general, I have 700 x 45mm Longboards and love them, they don't bounce or rattle nearly as much.
Hopefully the 20" version will be lighter and the stays stiff enough to keep them from rattling too badly.
But Sram...