Avatar for acharnley


Member since Apr 2016 • Last active Sep 2017
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  • in Bikes & Bits
    Avatar for acharnley

    talbotframeworks do that, they wrap a little of the D1 wire around the hose. There's a picture on our Facebook page of it. As hippy suggests, perhaps a short 30cm extension lead will give you greater flexibility? Perhaps the D1 port would go up the crown fork where it won't get wet at all, then the 30cm extension becomes a sacrificial part.

  • in Bikes & Bits
    Avatar for acharnley

    Hi Chak,

    The user/D1 you refer to had a little bit of rust however that wasn't the issue - the issue was the pins were seized from electrolysis. It's exactly how we say the port shouldn't be installed - if the injection moulded lead from your phone is at the bottom then water can't drain and creates a bath for which the 5V between the pins to pass. Two days is all it took for it to fail.

    Is it an issue? Absolutely, but you'll have the same problem with any USB device not just the D1 - which is why our port is outside the device. Better to replace the port then throwing it in the trash sometime after the 1yr warranty ends (that's not the D1 warranty).

    Best solution:

    Ideally cable tie the connector directly under the stem with the wires from both the D1 and the USB device cable bending a little towards the ground - that way water can't hit it from above and water can't run into it.


    The problem with waterproofing is once it fails the water sits there and creates this bath of water in which the pins dissolve. We made the port drainable (not via injection moulding which is half the price) to prevent this (it's not perfect but it's something) - but the user must have the D1 port at the bottom. It's not perfect though, any path the electricity can take between the 5v and 0v of the USB port will eat the pins.

    I highly recommend installing under the stem for a long life. A dab of WD40/GT80 may help as well. If it does fail, we have the service on the website to replace it. Cost is about £5 posted back to you.

    We're looking for alternatives but haven't found one as of yet. Prevention is better than cure - there are D1's touring the world for over 6 months now, no problems. It's all about how you install the port as to how long it'll last.

    The D1 main unit should last forever. Zero failures so far, a record we are mighty proud off.



  • in Bikes & Bits
    Avatar for acharnley

    Free unit going for grabs on Facebook. It hasn't had much attention so high chance of winning.


    Regards, Andrew

  • in Bikes & Bits
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    Just released today. Thanks for the feedback. fussballclub's mate is still writing a review but it looks positive!


    Next challenge, breaking into the German market!

  • in Bikes & Bits
    Avatar for acharnley

    It's fine then, its performance won't degrade. If the protection were to fail it would destroy the converter and you would have no output.

    60kph for 5 to 10 minutes is crazy! :)

    Was that when it was in your bag as well?

  • in Bikes & Bits
    Avatar for acharnley

    For how long? It is the combination of speed and time generating heat which must not exceed the density of the unit.

    More heat will be generated ... but more airflow will dissipate it. The current model has a short cable to ensure users don't try to stick it in a bag. It's also on the installation card and on the FAQ. With no airflow, 60kph for an extended period of time - does not sound good.

    I can not give a definitive statement that it will survive say 60kph for 2 minutes without a load. It was designed primarily for tourers which would need short term overvoltage protection.

    I can say that to date there's been no failures with the electronics in any unit and that there's now quite a few audax roadies using them.


    I recommend audax riders use SONDelux as these have a smaller generator more appropriate for these sort of speeds.

  • in Bikes & Bits
    Avatar for acharnley

    The USB charging port is already in the stem area - the cable is the correct length to do that.

    Assuming the lights are independent and switchable on/off on the front light (i.e B&M lights). Get ones with capacitors built in (B&M call them "plus").

    Garmin ... you could use a double USB splitter (easy to make from two 99p 30cm extension leads). D1 will happily power that and something else. Power will go off at low speed and standstill, can you live with that?

    If not, powerbank with passthrough. You'll need one anyway for the Di2 if you ditch it's power source (I am not familiar with the Di2 electronics so don't quote me - does it work with 5v?).

    A powerbank will lower efficiency by 25-30%, however depending on how you ride and what you consume this may be trivial and worth it for the convenience.

  • in Bikes & Bits
    Avatar for acharnley

    Feedback from Robert for the other unit has come in. Move over B&M eWerk!

    "We are back from Scotland audax. Covered 1200km in 93 hours so out of time for the event. But your device really work well. Manage to charge my battery back up to half in 8 to 10 hours riding.

    Like it more than the ewerks
    It's smaller
    Neat on a ti bike
    Fast charge
    USB connection is good and even after the rain. And it really rain hard as my jacket failed on some seams."