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Use brake cleaner then give it a coat off polish .
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EPS and EE brakes sounds wicked
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The Gtechniq stuff arrived yesterday - clearly powerful given the laundry list of ways in which it will kill you and/or destroy the planet. Unfortunately it was no match for the black marks. There was some strange clear glue-like residue on the underside of the frame and forks (I'm guessing the remnants of a previous frame protection or mudguard kit) which it cleaned up wonderfully but the black stuff is stubbornly still there.
Think I have some disc brake cleaner in the shed so I'll try that and then I guess the next step will be trying a clay bar
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The clay bar dropped through the post early afternoon and with work being quiet I snuck out and spent an hour and significant amounts of elbow grease getting at all the manky bits. I'm delighted at how it's come out! There's still one slight mark on the seat tube that no amount of rubbing seems to be getting out but it's so much better than before.
We're off on holiday next week but I will try and get the frame really popping before I go then should be ready to do the build when I get back.
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Back from holiday and ready to crack on with the build! But first to finish off on the frame prep...
The previous owner evidently had rode very toe out as there was a lot of heel scrape on the crank it came with and on the chainstay. I don't have a before shot but I used some of the Autoglym stuff recommended upthread and am really happy with the result. You can still see the scrapes when you look for them in certain light conditions but they're so much better than before and I didn't want to risk going too deep and going through the paint completely. I then gave the frame a coat with Muc Off Miracle Shine and finished it yesterday with a ceramic coat which will hopefully mean it's easy to keep clean in future and will have a lasting shine.
I don't want to add any further colours to the main build so am aiming for fluro yellow where possible to match the accent colour and then black everywhere else. The Elite bottle cages match perfectly, unfortunately I don't think the chain does. I'm umming and aahing about whether to try the green version or just go for black with that.
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Arses. Despite the rather large access hole on the downtime, the EPS battery doesn't fit. It gets stuck on the rivnut for the bottle cage boss.
Given the generous clearance between wheel and downtube, the sensible side of me says to just wrap the thing up in foam, tape it underneath the downtube and accept it looking a bit ugly. The stupid side of me is wondering if drilling the rivnut out would allow enough clearance to get the battery in and I could then replace it once the battery is inside the tube, or even more drastically whether the opening could be dremmelled/filed up to the rivnuts to give more room to maneuver. Logically I know these are both terrible ideas.
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This is the advice I didn't necessarily want, but probably did need to hear. Going at the frame with power tools does feel like a recipe for disaster...
@fredtc unfortunately not - with the Isospeed the whole seat tube is a separate piece to the rest of the frame with a topper for the saddle clamp and there's no opening to run the cables down to the BB. I think there might be a possibility of getting it into the headtube via the headset hole, but then the cables aren't long enough and unlike Shimano, Campag just attaches the cables to the battery and you don't appear to be able to buy extensions. Starting to feel I really should have gone Di2 now, the dangers of trying to be different!
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I came, I saw, I bodged it. Wrapped the battery in adhesive-backed foam then whacked it on a frame pump mount and routed the cables via the BB. Now I know it works I'll zip tie it to the mount to keep it secure. I've used a few left over bits from a Di2 external routing kit to secure the cables and hopefully stop them coming loose and fouling on the crank.
This build has fought me every step of the way so far. I've built very integrated TT bikes in the past which have been nothing compared to this, every little 5 minute job seems to have turned into an hour of head scratching. On the plus side it is now starting to look something akin to a bicycle. Just waiting on some brake inners to arrive (bought an elite link brake kit and of course Campag inners have a different shaped end), then I should have it ready for action.
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I am tempted I must say. Thing is, I really like the Campag ergonimics and shifting feel, and the all black against the frame, but the battery being sat outside the frame is rather ruining the look. If I were to downgrade to v2 I'd lose the bluetooth capability (not that I ever look at gearing data) but from the dimensions the battery would fit as they're shorter and fatter, so that's an option if one comes up cheap on eBay. Alternatively as you say flog it and go eTap.
@amey noted! In my defence it was very lightly clamped and pretty much just balanced in the stand but I take your point, wouldn't want to break the frame before I've started!
@kjlem I think that's the perspective of the photo with the bit of the workstand that holds the bars running directly behind the stem. It's a standard Pro Vibe stem, 90mm as the bars have quite a long reach to the hoods
lesterama
Glws
billygoat28
getoutofbed
stelfox
ElGonzo
Big_Ted
fredtc
rawmeat
amey
andyp
PhilDAS
Shl
kjlem-
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About
Lairy Domane RSL
Posted by
@ASTTer
Thank you! That looks perfect. Will get a bottle ordered.
@Glws it is a BB90 on these, so limited to 24mm spindle cranks. I got the bearings out yesterday and have had the Campag adapter kit curing overnight based on the guide here. I'm not going to go any further with the BB/crank until I've run the EPS wires however.
@lesterama that looks a useful product too, although the paint looks pretty good from a distance when I get up close there are a lot of fine swirls so I think something like that once I've got it cleaned up will hopefully bring the colour back to life and get it popping a bit more.