Fast and long

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  • "Fast & Long" is also the title of my sex tape.

  • This thread is unhinged. Love it, can't wait to see the final product.

  • I'd rather worry about getting a 30mm axle in a 41mm bearing first. Most press fit BBs work well, but the tiny bearings never last (many of these are probably hose-happy users but that's my experience)

    Thanks. I should have said, I only run 24mm axles, partly because of the bearing size issue. As you'll have seem from the SpeedConcept pics, I am not shy of increasing the BB bore to accomodate the right bearing for the job!

  • Cheers, @amey - There's a lot I could probably learn from @hippy

  • "Fast & Long" is also the title of my sex tape.

    ... Think I'll pass on that one!

  • This thread is unhinged. Love it, can't wait to see the final product.

    I aim to please! I'm not afraid to experiment; although I sadly have a back-catalogue of near disasters that result directly from an overdose of creativity!

  • Not so much to update on today, I'm afraid. I ordered the closed cell foam in 5mm, 3mm & 2mm for the saddle padding. My plan is to drill two holes in the carbon saddle that line up with my sitbones, and then cover the saddle with foam. Hopefully, my sitbones will find a bit of location in the holes, and my mass will be distributed over a larger arse-area.

    I mounted the saddle on my turbo slave for some testing... Maybe I'll spread some plasticine or playdough over the bit where I make contact. I'm finding it quite hard to work out where my bones actually touch the saddle. On the ISM I don't move around much at all - and that's kinda what I am hoping for with the new one; one planted position.

  • I have been pleased with the two Hope BBs I have tried, one in PF46 and one in PF41. I was expecting to glue in the cups to avoid creaks. But in both installs I just followed their instructions, including grease, and all is good so far.
    I had to dismantle one for a different problem and I expected problems after but none so far.
    Also building for PBP at the moment

  • Bike spec (pt 3)

    Wheels, tyres
    I'm wanting to run fast tyres as my default audax choice, and that's probably Conti GP5000s tl, looking at bicyclerollingresistance. Gone are the days when I slapped on a set of Gatorskins and wondered why I was still having to pedal on gentle downhills...
    With disc brakes, the constraints on tyre diameter are only governed by availability (although a quick look on the Conti website isn't inspiring; all the decent sizes are out-of-stock). But anyway, the target is 700 x 28/30/32mm.

    Hubs - living in the frozen north, as I do, I'm inclined to buy local, and that means Hope. Barnoldswick is a short ride from here, and a set of their RS4 CL hubs fit the bill. Shimano freehub, 12mm axles. I hope they're a solid, reliable choice.

    Spokes - Sapim CX Ray, 24 front and rear, crossing 2. I could see an argument for 28 rear, but for endurance rides, I am absolutely not putting a lot of power down (quite the reverse). I'll order a couple of spare spokes in case of emergency, but I don't carry them with me (or at least, I haven't ever bothered). Brass nipples for reliability.

    Rims - I'm looking at LightBicycle WR45 disc. Its the widest mid-depth rim they do, at 33mm max outside width, which should work well (aerodynamically) with a 30 or 32mm GP5000s. I guess the tyre will come up at ~1mm bigger on a 25mm internal rim (they are true to size on 21mm, I believe). And the aero rule-of-thumb is to run a tyre that's 95% the size of the max rim width, so for 33mm, that would be 31.5mm. So, I'll go with a 30mm GP5000s.
    At 45mm deep, with a very fat U section, the rims should be stable in cross winds. I've run 55mm and 65mm, and they're occasionally a handful when I get tired, which is never a nice surprise at the end of a 400k day.
    I think the LightBicycle rims are available with a solid rim bed for tubeless. I've built two sets of wheels like this before, and its utterly painful getting the nipples through with bits of cotton and magnets, but once done, its soon forgotten, and its one less issue with the tubeless setup.

  • I have been pleased with the two Hope BBs I have tried, one in PF46 and one in PF41. I was expecting to glue in the cups to avoid creaks. But in both installs I just followed their instructions, including grease, and all is good so far.

    I had to dismantle one for a different problem and I expected problems after but none so far.
    Also building for PBP at the moment

    Thanks for the feedback, I'm really grateful (and for all the suggestions I'm getting - cheers, all). I'm 50/50 on the Hope PF41 and the Wheels Manufacturing. I'm never sure how well BBs in carbon frames are machined, so I am half expecting to have to epoxy it in!

    Also building for PBP at the moment

    Great to hear! Anything rad? Or middle-of-the-road reliable?

  • Just about done now actually. Always used Ti before so trying carbon this time. Genesis Datum, roadish geo with massive clearance. LB rims on DT180/SON hubs. Ultegra mechanical gears with sub compact.
    Just lighting to sort and then areobars if rules allow

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  • Genesis Datum

    Very nice, and we seem to have made some similar choices in terms of geometry and kit too. That's reassuring! :-) Let me know how you get on with your aerobar thinking... We all have some "solving" to do in order to live within the rules.

  • I have the WR38 with undrilled bed, would shill. Used the little metal insert and a magnet to do the nipples. I had a moment of panic when one of the holes was so snug I couldn't get the nipple to exit, but just took a few attempts.

  • Ditto, WR38 with undrilled bed. Lovely set of rims and unsurprisingly have mounted and seated lots of different tubeless tyres without issue.

  • Cheers, @Yemble & @onyerbike - I do like these with the undrilled bed. No rim tape = easier tyre fitting, and one (or 24) less potential leaks to worry about! The last time I built a pair, I got a piece of cotton with a tiny bit of steel on the end, and a magnet. It was a complete and utter pain, although I did improve on the second wheel. Hard to say whether its my technique, my equipment or just that's the trade-off.

    I've also been wondering about running tyre inserts, but I am only going to do it if it has zero impact on rolling resistance. I hope the GP5000S TL is pretty robust, certainly that's what I hear from folks. And I haven't suffered many punctures at all. But equally, a flat at 2am in the rain can be awful, and an insert does mean I could probably keep riding until I get some place to fix it. Am I "solving" problems that are unnecessary?

  • First up, many apologies for not updating earlier; I can only blame the excesses of the festive season and a particularly vicious bug that had me coughing up green for too long...

    The frame has arrived!
    I took it out of the battered piece of cardboard that was loosely draped around it yesterday. Although everything looks OK, the first job, once its unwrapped, is to check that the frame is undamaged. I've had a quick look and it seems OK, but I won't post proper pics until I've looked at it carefully.

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  • I've unwrapped the frame, and I am pretty pleased with how it looks. I'm not very good with pics; they are functional rather than snazzy, but here you go.

    The bare frame weight is 1,080g
    Fork 378g
    Bars/stem 377g
    Seatpost 216g
    Rear dropout/threaded bit 19g
    Front through axle 26g
    And the rear 37g
    Seatpost clamp bits 24g
    Headset essentials 176g
    Headset spacers 32g
    Bottle cage bolts 11g
    Front mech braze on 12g

    I guess the build up from here is going to be 2 steps forward, one back as I trial-fit the forks and bars, then take it apart ready for hose threading. I have some BH90 Shimano hoses on order, plus some foam sleeve, and a Lifeline gear cable set ready for next week.

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  • Looks good, nice color!
    Is there a specific reason you are weighing all the parts? Weight is not that important for an Audax/ultra bike right?

  • Ooh great color, looks like a coppery red.

  • Cheers, @kjlem, @Yemble - I'm liking the colour too. Coppery-red pretty much sums it up, yeah. I had wild ideas about respraying it in a pseudo-reflective style, but it seems silly to butcher a nice paint job. I'll find some other ways to make the bike (and me) more visible during the night.
    @kjlem - weight isn't really important (especially given my shape!), I agree, but if anyone else is interested in one of these frames, maybe this helps? The other thing; with the internal routing through the headset, I don't expect to ever have the bare frame like this, so this is the only chance to weigh.
    I think comfort/fit/position is the most important factor when I'm on the bike for 8 hours plus. If I can find a comfortable aero position that I can hold for 80% of my time, I'll be very happy.

  • nice color. whatt is the frame maker ?
    it looks like eveything from a cervelo to a wilier

  • Today's dilemma; there aren't any build instructions with the frame, and in particular the headset and integrated bar and stem. I have a large collection of round-ish black plastic parts (pic 1), some of which fit together in various ways. I've pushed three pieces together (pic 2) to resemble what is on the SPCycle website (kindly linked above by @kjlem).
    However, there are two little plastic dowels sticking up on the upper face, and these don't fit into the bar/stem combo (pic 3).
    I've emailed SPCycle; will be interesting to see whether they offer help! But I am thinking I probably need to amputate the two culprits, so the stem then sits flat against the upper spacer. Anyone else seen/solved anything similar? I have no idea what the two dowel things are for...

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  • I presume they're to stop the 'aero' stack rotating.

    That looks upside down. Presumably one of those pieces doesn't have the pins showing on the top side so it sits flush with the bottom of the stem?

    Maybe you're missing a 'top' piece without those pins?

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Fast and long

Posted by Avatar for scarlet @scarlet