Have an Athena carbon power torque crank, fitted to an Italian bb Battaglin.
Will remove for winter strip down. I have removed veloce using a puller lots of times, but not a carbon model.
Park Tool kit has a plastic sleeved puller that just explodes, plus it will not fit between the cups and crank arm on Italian bb.
Videos show the use of the puller with a cardboard insert behind to prevent damage … given they are torqued up to 40 odd nm, inevitably the carbon cracks.
I have seen a cyclus tool which allegedly goes between the cups and arm for carbon cranks, but as stated the plastic Park equivalent I have will not fit between the gap.
Any advise from somebody that has done this without damage, would be appreciated.
Maybe a bit rough but on 3-piece BMX cranks with a similar setup you screw a chunky bolt into the axle and knock the axle through the crank arm.
Looking at the setup you could do this if you got a nut with the right thread for the axle?
the VAR tool is the best for this as the load is spread by a metal C shape. Ive lost count of how many of those plastic park things ive seen break. Make sure the bolt washer hasnt been left behind in the crank when removing the bolt too, as the tools dont work then. There really arent a lot of options given the tight space. Have the tips of the puller legs started to bend out of shape yet? cut an elongted C out of an old compact disc - its quite sturdy material. fit the puller without the plastic cradle. If you have access to another clamp then clamp the 2 legs tight so theres no chance of them slipping.
I once left the bolt washer in by mistake.. result was very bad. Saved it with epoxy resin but had I not used the terrible parktool crank puller (or not been so absent minded) and invested in the var one, I wouldn't of had the hassle.
As for the plastic sleeve, if it's the same as mine then i think that isn't the right part for removing the crank arm. That's part of the bearing puller as far as I know or its just for non carbon cranks. Placing the cardboard between the arm and the puller does stop it from splintering the carbon. Actually quite simple when you get the hang of it but you need to make your own inserts after a while and definitely fiddly as fuck but it does work if you place it right. I hate the tool though. Mine is broken in multiple ways after only like 8 uses.
I've removed a few carbon PT arms. I use an old draper bearing puller and an headset spanner behind the crank arm with a thin but of pulp type cardboard between spanner and crank arm. Seems to spread the load sufficiently to avoid damage.
Don't worry about formatting, just type in the text and we'll take care of making sense of it. We will auto-convert links, and if you put asterisks around words we will make them bold.
For a full reference visit the Markdown syntax.
© LFGSS, powered by microcosm.
Report a problem
London Fixed Gear and Single-Speed is a community of predominantly fixed gear and single-speed cyclists in and around London, UK.
This site is supported almost exclusively by donations. Please consider donating a small amount regularly.