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  • Looks like the bars just slipped down. Maybe you can quickly fix it when he isn't looking

  • Unfortunately I've seen him riding like that. The bike it's just 2 sizes bigger than what he needs so shitty ergonomics comes in

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  • That spacer & stem angle combo annoys me

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  • Doesn’t look like Alpkit have been paying attention

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  • Noone doing big corp marketing know about bdhu. The Quadlock comercials on youtube also start with a horrible setup

  • Perhaps the tilted drops give a more upright body position for gravel riding?

  • For going downhill safely while gravel riding on rough terrain you need a good, centered position with proper reach to the brake levers while on the drops. Compromising this looking for a more upright position in the hoods is wrong I think, maybe another properly fitting frame is the solution for this.

  • There's a big line to cross for the average, non road cycling middle aged person, and it's bars lower than saddle. That's why so many of the gravel wagons have hoods and bars constantly uphill.

  • I know, I become one of them recently. Frames too Big and saddles too high are part of the problem also

  • I'd really like to have a tool setting up the hoods, or at least copy the one / left / right hood location to the other side. I always discover after a while that one lever is just different but am too lazy to re-do again (for a long time). I know of the 3dpbs tool, the Abbey Bike Tools Lever Setter (which is basically just a M6 to M10 adapter for hanger alignment gauges).

    I could use my gear hanger alignment gauge; but since the M6 / M10 adapter thingy from Abbey isn't available currently, maybe tinkering something with screw-in nut sockets (or however they're called) in a piece of plywood.

    I can't imagine using the 3dpbs tool because the bike needs to be in level? Also funny discussion at the Instagram post of the tool about the level marking.

    Another idea would be to use kind of a measurement tool, which is attached to the handlebar (like when attaching the hoods upfront on the table before mounting the handlebar at all), but can be moved vertically, so that it is not attached to the flat part of the drops. The image is really bad. I'll draw another one.

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  • I've only ever used a long spirit level, and then put two clamps on it for left/right hood angle alignment.

    90% of the time I don't bother though and as long as it feels roughly right ..

  • Ah the clamps are a good idea

  • You can measure from under to end bar with a flexible tape, or my preferred method of using a level or a string and check against the bar to see if both levers are at the same height

  • For angle is easy to do visually unless you have some faux pro inwards silly position

  • Yeah I do the same as the two posts above, long spirit level and length of string and or soft measuring tape are your friends.
    Nothing worse though when you realise the hoods are slightly off after taping.

    Laughed out loud at that 3dpbs thing, hadn't seen it before. Surely thats an old April fools?

  • Will try this next time, I have to find a better way than what I am doing now

  • Similar but I run a piece of thick fishing line between the two levers at any point where it catches (there’s a lip underneath the front of the rubber of the hoods on my ultegras). When you look head on at the bars you can see if the string / wire runs parallel (especially if your bars have decals on them either side of the stem). Doesn’t matter then if you bike is in a stand / not standing straight. Credit: user snoops.

  • Ha, no it was already posted here some pages ago, a video from Tobias / Rides of Japan:

  • Some good points on BDHU from 5.18mim

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Posted by Avatar for Hulsroy @Hulsroy