had a dirty weekend on Ortigia (Syracusa) there’s some amazing archeology just to the north, greek amphitheater and the ‘ear of Dionysius’ which is a big cave where people where locked up but it’s like an echo chamber so the guards could hear everything you said.
there is a BBC program about Sicily that features a lot of the sites (Dan Snow?)
i really regret not going into the church in the main square as it has greek/roman/christian/muslim architectural features built on top of each other.
would definitely go back and explore more of the island particularly Etna but we were on foot and just had a couple of days.
This is amazing. Thank you.
It's a bit of puzzle at the moment as we're keen on two weeks. The general consensus is to do the island loop, but that feels disingenuous to the place in ignoring the middle.
I'm massively keen on Roman history at the moment for some reason, so would love to see some sights.
Time, however, is always something to fight against.
I had a holiday there years ago. Stayed in Taormina which was a nice place.
Went up Etna; it has only just opened up after a recent eruption, so was basically just black lava rock near the top. The earth was still hot 3 CMS under the topsoil. Also did a day trip to Catania and wandered around the markets there.
Also, I know you said you'd probably be driving but watched and enjoyed this a week or so ago:
I will add some points to this thread tonight.
I've also been to Taormina a couple of times. It's stunning but busy.
More to come
Just came back from Taormina, great place. Also loved Etna... well worth the trip.
I've previously driven around the East/West of the island (cutting through the middle quickly) and it was good, but the driving can be a bit hectic! The history/civilisation changes are fascinating, but the small towns did start to resemble each other after a few days.
The Palermo/Catania rivalry is amusing: 'Two cities, both alike in dignity...'
The drivers are crazy in Sicily!
SE: Cavagrande. Huge gorge that you hike down into, beautiful cold natural pools at bottom. Pure heaven and a must do if going in the summer.
Caseificio Borderi in Siracusa market - best sando of my life: the queue can be an hour, and generally I don't queue, but it's worth it.
Duomo (Piazza del Duomo) the church has a Baroque facade stuck onto the original Greek temple.
Fonte Aretusa (Via Picherali) a freshwater spring at the edge of the sea
Parco Archeologico della Neapolis -the Teatro Greco particularly
Out of town a bit, plan a day (bring a picnic) at Pantalica, a necropolis of over 5000 tombs dug out of the surrounding cliffs. Make your way to the bottom and follow the lovely cold stream until you find your perfect picnic spot (you'll come across some places deep enough for swimming)
Trattoria Casalinga: get the vongole
Book a tour of Palazzo Biscari. Principo Ruggero Moncada, the heir and tour guide, takes you through this gem of Italian ostentation with pride.
and, of course, Etna.
Piazza Armerina The Villa Romana– serious mosaic vibes
Ragusa Ibla a lovely Baroque town on its own little mountain and great gelato
Haven't been out of the country in a few years, and I'd like to go with my partner to Sicily. No idea why; we just had a sudden bump of similar thought and instead of forgetting the tipsy idea, we've kinda doubled down on it.
Anyone done a road trip out there? Two weeks maybe? As much as I'd like it to be a cycling one, It'll most likely be a driving one. We're quite curious and enjoy historical shit, so that might set the route?
Who's been out there?