Hedging against future inflation rises.

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  • here are the respective measurements according to the preset data on prowheelbuilder.com which is usually accurate in my experience.
    this accords with the hope website which suggests the boost hubs are different in so far as the flanges have been moved out a few mm - NB, if it is a boost hub you can buy a conversion kit to 142mm

  • ...if your measurement between the flanges is 57 you have a hub that was built as a boost hub - if it's 52mm then its a 142mm hub - either way, it looks like you can make it fit your dropouts by using the appropriate conversion kit.

  • Ah thanks so much for this and also doing the maths. I had a bit of a time trying to measure but I think it's 52 so a normal hub (I think you did a typo) so I just need end caps. Annoying but not as bad as rebuilding a wheel.

    Moral of the story is buy and use Vernier callipers.

    Interesting that you can convert a boost hub to 142.. didn't realise that. I thought it was a negative shim situation.

  • yes - typo corrected

    • also, i think i saw that the 142 -> 148 conversion kits also have a spacer to add behind the disk rotor so you'll need to remember to remove that as well as changing end caps to get back down to 142mm spacing
  • Blessed LBS had the correct endcaps.


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  • Humble 10 speed cassette is in place. Nearly had a mental breakdown when I realised I needed a spacer and didn't have one.


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  • And for dinner I had burritos.


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  • Got the electronic engineer at work to do my soldering to avoid fucking things up. When I asked him if he wanted a thank you bribe he just said

    "Nah, I did it on company time."


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  • Next problem is why is my light mount bent straight. Also I don't have a long enough bolt to mount the light.


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  • I invested in the same bracket. 10 seconds later I looked on the Schmidt website to check if it matters which way the light is mounted. Yes it does. This, and the realisation that this is a stupid place to put a light anyway, led to a search for a bracket to mount that bracket somewhere else, horizontally.

  • I think I have a spare cateye fork mount you can have if you can collect it?

  • wait...what is this bracket for? I thought it was just a wierdly bent one?

    @stelfox very kind but I had a second dig through The Box and found a new mount so I should be OK. Need to work out the "bung" situation.

  • Baller. I'm a coward and would have extended the cable before adding the junction box.

  • We're ready to go, just need to slit some bungs as you can't fit the fitting through them


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  • I was referring to the Fairlight one, for the rear, mentioned earlier.

    How’s it going? Hope that fork hole bung goes in more easily for you than for me!

  • Not tried fitting the fork light yet. Sad news about the wanker mount, though it is a stupid place to mount a light, not sure where's better? On my big bro I have it mounted on the pannier bolt. Though the light alignment will still be trash. Hm.

  • I’m confused if the fitting won’t go through the bung will it fit through the holes in the fork ok?

  • The holes are huge, basically the size of the bung, probably 8mm acrosss or something. Though I've not actually tried any of it but...surely it will fit through the holes in the fork? They can't be expecting people to solder the coax connectors on in situ?

    Expect a whiny post if I can't fit it through.

  • shocked there isn't 3 or 4 pages dedicated to exactly this in the pdf

  • This build is more zine than pdf

  • need a golf club thread but for yuppie crap

  • Why would we need a thread when we have an entire forum

  • They can't be expecting people to solder the coax connectors on in situ?

    There is no other way. Did all this dynamo stuff over the last week or so. Think my risk of cerebral haemorrhage is getting back to normal now. The swearing involved was atrocious.


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  • Yep, just had a quick fiddle and indeed, you cannot route the cable through the fork with the connector on.

    I'm going to zip tie it to the fork leg with white zip ties.

  • When the Faran 2.0 came out I priced the whole thing up for a full build that was basically the same as this one but with GRX 600 and without a ck headset or hope RX brakes and thought mm, bit expensive, probably best not to.

    But I think partially due to the ludicrous outlay of my wheelset, this build will actually end up costing the same, only I've had to do all this leg work myself.

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Hedging against future inflation rises.

Posted by Avatar for Belagerent @Belagerent

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