7 to 10speed do I need to coldest?

Posted on
  • I'm converting a 1990s claud butler (Reynolds 531) from a 7speed to 10speed.
    I've got a new 10spd groupset, wheels etc..

    Am I going to need to coldset the frame, or will I be able to put (with a bit of brute strength) the wheel on?

  • Assuming you meant cold-set, then probably yes. 10 speed hubs are 135mm wide, 7 speed tend to be 130. Someone more knowledgeable will probably be along to correct that but that's what I did on my old MTB.

    Double edit: this would be more suited to the mechanical AQA thread.

    Edit: I cold set, that is, or rather I got a bike shop to do it. I imagine just jamming the wheel in would put the tubes under stress.

  • 10 speed hubs are 135mm wide

    Non-disc road hubs are 130mm.

  • Right, thought that might be the case. Old non-disc MTB were 135 though right?

  • Newer road rim brake hubs are 130mm. Older (1980s?) road bikes are 124mm.

    I think you could squeeze it in without cold setting. Only one way to find out..

  • Edited for clarification.

  • I have a steel track tandem that has a road wheel squeezed in the back.

  • It should in theory fit. Initially, it will be tight but steel is a springy material so over the course of time, it should stretch. We are only talking a millimetre or two either side. I've had no problems doing this. Indeed, the earlier multi speed wheels spaced at 130mm came with domed nuts to allow wheels to slip into a 126mm space.

  • Cold setting the rear fork ends to alter the spacing usually involves resetting the angle of the fork ends so that they remain parallel to the centre line of the frame. There is a frame builders tool to check this.

    If the stays are just bent out, the derailleur hanger will not be parallel, and this will detract from the efficiency of the changer.

    If you're not a perfectionist, you could just cram the wheel in and see what happens - I suspect it will work fine. As for stress on the chainstays I wouldn't worry too much - cold setting must involve some stress itself.

    I don't think chainstay failure is all that common - I've only seen it happen once and in that case there was no question of the frame having been reset. Incidentally, the bike was held up by the chain - its owner (my Mum) asked me to have a look at the bike because she thought the chain was too tight.

    As for going from 7 to 10 sprockets, I find that 5 are quite enough!

  • Nope. 126 OLD, 130 new, 135mtb, 142thru, 148boost.

    Cold setting is easy enough on steel.

  • Finally ^ someone puts the right numbers up.

    Road spacing;
    126mm up to 7sp
    130mm; 8sp up to “now” (non disc)

    MTBs been 135mm pretty much since conception

    Very old bikes (pre-1970s) may also have 120mm spacing for 5 speed.

    Note to the OP: you can still run 7sp on a 130mm hub .. and you may find your frame is already 130mm (if 90s built) - So measure it!

  • I did exactly what you trying to do go from 6 to more 9 speed my case and I just pull the frame open a bit from 126 to 130 very easy .had to adjust the rear hanger a bit with a park hanger tool . Rode like a dream Especially with the new lighter wheels and new shimano pads.

    1 Attachment

    • Screenshot_20211220-185236_Gallery.jpg
  • Post a reply
    • Bold
    • Italics
    • Link
    • Image
    • List
    • Quote
    • code
    • Preview

7 to 10speed do I need to coldest?

Posted by Avatar for Bunbury @Bunbury