How do I bathroom / kitchen / extension? etc.

Posted on
of 207
  • Can anyone give me an idea how much we need to budget for labour (or how many days)to install 5 radiators in a flat, existing pipework and rads will already be removed and i want a neater/cleaner install than before as it’s all boxed in with fat looking box skirting which i hate , will not involve any chasing just going through some stud walls and round some pillars so a few more joints there.
    i’ll be cutting a channel in some internal insulation in the lounge so PVC pipe trunking can go in the void and i’ll plasterboard over, no floorboards need to come up (there aren’t any it’s concrete floor/ceiling), it will involve some specialist fixings to go through 50mm of Kingspan to get to brick/blockwork so maybe i’ll get the feet to go with bigger rads but that’s straight onto hardwood floor. they may route through some built in cupboards
    so some things there to slow them down but they should be able to tap into existing pipework without having to go digging anywhere.

    budget for 3-4 days/ 1.5-2k ??

  • Oh man. But hey, still looks like an amazing place you got!

  • Been through this recently (last 5 weeks), will dig out the paperwork and come back to you.

    1 Attachment

    • 97934324-0F4F-42A9-BFF6-C85F624A757E.jpeg
  • Thanks, priced everything up as best i could for rads/pipes/valves etc. just don’t have a frame of reference for how long to install.

  • I had similar done on my extension plus one new radiator in the existing so a total of 6. The plumbers did the first fix and it took a day which included one going to the plumbers merchant which too 1-2 hours and then 2 hours sitting in the van to drag it out to a day.....
    I did the second fix which took half a day.

    I would say 2-3 days at the most

  • My bill is looped in with boiler service and fixing my cowboy builders shit as best as possible.

    I reckon it was about £500 to fit 6 new rads (1 massive one which I helped with, 5 normal/small size). Rads went where old ones were, but the length was different on my column ones so needed bending or bringing up at a different place along the floorboard, so some cost there in materials/time included in my 500. He also Flushed and chemical cleaned heating system and dosed with corrosion inhibitor which you'll want to do I'm sure.

    Took him one long day. Located in Bristol

  • Thanks, i’ll need to add a bit for running the lengths of new pipes etc but i’m hoping this along with somebody to do a drain down before i rip everything out and then a system balance plus the Tado install will be under 2k.

  • I had 3 imperial sized rads removed and two metric put in to replace.
    Copper pipe and the run to the furthest rad replaced in full.

    Rads were delivered before the job started.
    Drain down took about an hour.
    About 5hrs in total including refilling bleeding and balancing.
    Cost me about 700 all in.

  • @bobble any ideas on how that water is getting in the stained glass window? Is it where the window meets the aperture or something else? Defo not condensation?

    Also try and find a firm who have a cherry picker maybe? These guys do sealants jobs with cherry pickers and go by the hour:­d-mastic-contractor-with-cherry-picker/

    Or a good roofer might do you a solid with ladder and do it for cash.

    Getting a rain hood on should take 15 mins max!

    Good luck man

  • Dis floof!

    Love a range in a fireplace.

  • Looks like that will be a lovely kitchen to cook in - none of this knock through - breakfast bar -open kitchen - Jamie Oliver bullshit. !

  • Anyone in Bristol got a big ladder?

    Yep, happy to lend it out

  • @Sheppz the beans are loving it - its gone from the coldest to the warmest part of the house since insulating so its right up their street.

    Cheers @Howard - yeah, didn't fancy the open plan - nightmare to heat. Kept it pretty simple to DIY as well.

  • Bit niche but just in case, has anyone got good examples of Victorian terraces that were extended without knocking down the back wall? This is currently our setup with a 90s/early 00s extension and looking for inspiration to see if we could avoid removing the back wall

  • Ohhhhhh I have seen some, lemme have a think where, I know there was one in Bethnal Green that the Architect did themselves.

    On a Dif note: Loft stuff again, our neighbours want us to cross the party wall so the two lofts but up (theirs is set back a bit, prob butted against the bottom of the party wall), doesn't sound like something thats legit although they claim their Architect son has done that multiple times.

    Yes I would ask my builder if he ever replied to an email.

  • Surely the only sensible solution would be to build your side up to the party wall then modify theirs to meet you in the middle? Accepting that sensible in this case means not particularly feasible and therefore not worth pursuing

  • Yeah, that’s what makes sense in my mind but they are worried about having a gap and want to insist we join with no gap.
    If we can afford a proper brick wall I’d go with that but it’s unlikely.

  • our neighbours want us to cross the party wall so the two lofts butt up (theirs is set back a bit)

    Sounds like they want to give you some space for free?
    Win win!

  • I guess, but think it will look messy and I'm not even sure its allowed as we would technically be building on their house.
    I have remembered why I pay money for professionals, because I neither have the skills nor appetite to deal with this shit.

  • The solution is pretty simple then is it not:

    You to 110 year old neighbours with architect son: "your son is an architect? How nice. could you get him to draw a cross sectional plan of how this will be built and I'll be delighted to do what you have asked assuming my builders can follow the diagram"

    To the builder: "here is a cross sectional plan of how the loft will sit on the party wall - please build it this way"

  • Ha, 200iq play… may actually ask…

  • That's a great idea !

    They have built well inside the line of junction by the look of it, but flashed down to the centre line.

    So once you take the slates and battens off the side of their dormer revealing the sheathing - you will need something to fill that gap. Vertical slates and flat roof will have to be flashed into a new raised party wall or .... continue across to your new dormer, with a timber frame party wall in between.

    Ironically it would be easier to join the two if they had built to the centre line of the wall.

    If a wall is built astride (with permission) - costs should be shared for that wall.

    I don't think they can insist you do what they want - but either way sounds like party wall surveyors will need to thrash it out and you are going to need some drawings showing details of the proposed construction from someone.

    1 Attachment

    • Leyton+9_mkup.jpg
  • Surely it's quote them for the following.

    modify the plans for additional building work onto their property.
    planning/building control for works on an adjacent property.
    Your project management fee.
    The additional building cost.

  • Yeah, think we are going to switch builder/company and suck up a few K contract break fee.

    Not 100% sure im into the lofts joining, they said they are worried about maintaining the space between, if the roof was somehow pierced and something got in we would have no access.

    Le sigh...

  • Post a reply
    • Bold
    • Italics
    • Link
    • Image
    • List
    • Quote
    • code
    • Preview

How do I bathroom / kitchen / extension? etc.

Posted by Avatar for chrisbmx116 @chrisbmx116