argghhh campag centaur carbon 10spd shifter gear cable fit WTF?

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  • ok, i know I've been ill but fuck me, how do you fit the shifter cables on these? i've been at this an hour and a half, it makes no sense and doesn't shift and i can't find a useful tutorial. any help welcome before i set light to to the whole bastard mess with petrol and put the 30 year old mirage ones back on. at least it's obvious how to cable those

  • Isn’t there just a hole on the underside that you thread them up through? When you look through it you should see the little ratchet that catches the nub on the end of the cable. That’s the hole you go into.

    You have to shift all the way through your gears (I think with the thumb button IIRC) then thread it, then shift it back with the lever.

    If that doesn’t make sense let me know and I can go and take a look in a bit

  • Ah, so the little nubbin on the end of the cable goes into that hole but there doesn’t seem any way to then thread the cable (around? The inside?) so as it comes out the hole at the top (into that cream plastic guide / router) it’s utterly baffling and whatever hole I thread the cable in there doesn’t seem to be any natural/simple path knashes teeth

  • I don't know if your shifters have the same design, but I couldn't feed the cable through my Chorus 11 speed shifter because a bolt near the clamp was loose. This shifted the ratchet hole offset from the shifter body hole.

    Probably a small chance you have the same problem, but worth a try. I only discovered this when I decided to take the shifter apart in a last attempt to install the cable that way somehow.

    The black torx bolt in this picture:

  • Ah, so the little nubbin on the end of the cable goes into that hole but there doesn’t seem any way to then thread the cable (around? The inside?) so as it comes out the hole at the top

    No, you feed the cable through the shifter with the clean cut wire end, not the one with the barrel on the other side.

  • Hmm. So, if I feed the cable (r/h shifter) from the outside face and in, through so the cut end comes through the ratchet guide thingy, then how on earth does the cable now thread around and up so as it comes out the top into the guide?
    Thanks all for trying to help, I feel like an idiot here. I must be missing something really obvious.


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  • Look from underneath up through the shifter and you should see light all the way through where the cable will go.

    The cable will basically go straight up from the entry point of the shifter body.

    I agree it's not very user friendly. I also battled with it quite a bit, and consider myself pretty handy.

  • Like this


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  • Takes a bit of jiggling sometimes to get it through

    Looks like you’re going through the wrong hole or angle there

  • (Oh and tijs is right, you should see clear daylight when you look through, not the ratchet, I misremembered)

  • YEESSSSSSSs success, albeit by ruining two cables in the process (why are cables such shite quality?) now have both shifters working, everything needs adjusting but screw that now am exhusted
    thanks everyone!

  • I think the standard campag ethos is to ensure you do it wrong three times first and have to replace something in the process. So you pretty much got it right.

  • ruining two cables

    Clip the frayed ends, use the cables on your front shifter.

    Also, with some shifters it sometimes helps to go to the lowest gear then push the paddle slightly but not enough to shift a gear. This can help make the ‘seat’ where the cable head should fit more readily identifiable, so you know where to aim.

  • What makes you say that?

    As long as you have the ratchet in the correct starting position, it’s really not that difficult.

    Having a frayed cable only means you didn’t realize the cable wasn’t aligned properly and you applied force when you shouldn’t have. Not sure if you have but I would strongly recommend to use the original cables, the shape of the head is important as it requires an exact match with the receiving end inside the ergopower, both for shifting and braking. I’ve seen many “Campagnolo compatible” third party inners getting stuck inside an ergopower over time. Proving sometimes impossible to remove.

  • Just joking. But their stuff can be a pain in the arse. Last two campagnolo chains I tried to fit I ultimately had to buy new quick links. I’ve got a set of power torque cranks that I can’t remove cos I don’t have the ridiculous specific tool that also involves using a flimsy piece of cardboard. You need a hex screwdriver to take your levers off your bars rather than just an allen key. Etc so forth. On the whole, for the infrequent inexperienced home mechanic (me), campagnolo is generally a pain in the arse.

    This is not a prompt to start a boring shimano campagnolo debate.

  • As long as you have the ratchet in the correct starting position

    the problem, right there, in not knowing that was a thing ;)

  • Clip the frayed ends

    the short spares will do now, when I find a way of mounting the shifter to the downtube, just above the bb lol

  • ha ha. ha ha ha. fucking ha ha haaaaaaa
    everything fitted, wired, taped, trimmed, biek looks great.
    went to adjust the rear mech and the fucking shifter just stops working.
    no resistance, no clicks, just dead.
    the one I had repaired.
    wac
    i fucking hate ergopowers for ever

  • Assuming the internals haven’t given up the ghost, that can sometimes happen if the cable or cable head are stopping the ratchet from moving. Apply gentle, firm tension to the cable wherever it’s exposed on your bike; shift once into a higher gear (smaller cog); shift once into a lower gear; shift all the way into your highest gear; if this was the problem, you’ll have some slack, so screw in your barrel adjusters then re-clamp the cable pulling it very slightly taut; index as normal.

    If the internals are gone then the above won’t work.

  • genius.
    just asked the cable, nicely, if it would mind at little tension applied. Ratchet clattered right back and now seems to be working. Why does this happen? Campagnolo ‘feature’? My stupidity? Should I spray some virgin olive oil in there to make the cables feel at home?
    Anyway, chain I can see now is too short (long cage mech) and naturally I shortened that and threw the extra links away. Sigh.

  • From the three examples, I'm 100% with you that the power torque system wasn't the best moment from Campag. Hence they've stepped from it completly by now. Then again, the tool you're referring to isn't a Campag tool (as they actually never had one) The Cyclus Tools worked very good for me for instance.

    Until the introduction of the 13s chain, Campagnolo never had a quick link, only the traditional pinning and peening. So if you're trying to make an i.e. KMC quick link work with something that's not designed to work based on that closure system, it might lead to a less than perfect result together with some frustration whilst trying.

    If the Campag ergopowers require a torx key instead of allen key, you simply need to purchase a torx in the right size. There's a reason it's a torx instead of allen and it's not to make the life of the home mechanic more difficult than need be. ;)

    Please don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to point a finger but simply trying to put things into perspective. I work in the cycling industry myself and from experience I know it's very, very difficult to provide the correct information / availability to all the different channels.

    People will always try combinations / solutions that are not desigend for each other with possible frustration and disappoint as a result.

    I'm not saying the Campag way is always the right way to do something but I do believe (no matter the brand) it's important to make sure you're using the right tools and spare parts for the job.

  • Then again, the tool you're referring to isn't a Campag tool (as they actually never had one)...

    That kind of says it all though, design and put into production a crankset that needs a proprietary tool to remove it...neglect to put any such tool into production.

  • Tbh I don’t know whether or not there was a tool available when they launched it. It happens more often than you think that a deal is made with a tool manufacturer ie as it’s their core business and therefore will be a lot more affordable.

    That aside, PT is definitely not the best / friendliest system out there imo.

  • Such tool was not designed as there is no need for a proprietary tool.
    I can't fault Park, etc for marketing a streamlined solution, but a mallet w/punch or a two arm puller you'd use to service the bearings of said crankset does the job.

  • lol @ this thread. Campag can be a bit funky at times, but I'm a shit mechanic and I've never had any major issues. Powertorque was pretty crap but apart from that it's pretty straightforward.

    I've used a sram eagle 12s quick link with 12s chorus chain and it works just fine.

    I also forgot to remove the circlip from an ultratorque axle the other day and bent the fuck out of two dollar coins removing the bearing.
    Always watch the youtube videos!

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argghhh campag centaur carbon 10spd shifter gear cable fit WTF?

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