40s pedals - Lyotard 240
Bought a pair of wheels, Bayliss-Wiley hubs and Conloy rims.
Seller's pictures and need a little bit of a clean -
Damm wanted these for my 1946 Jack Taylor! Snooze you lose
I couldn't resist as soon as I saw them.
Wow, nice score with the wheels!
Thanks @Jonny69, I think they will suit the frame well.
Contacted VCC enthusiast Murray Maclean for his thoughts on the frame and Murray came back to me with -
Going by the frame number I would guess that it was built in 1947.
I have a very original “Club” model from 1948 and my lug work is much simpler and pre-war in style than your frame – so it is a more up-market frame than the “Club”model – I have no data to be able to fully identify different models, as the pictures in their catalogues are not of close enough detail to be able to see the lug work.
All that I can say is that it could be their “Touring” model or may be an version of their “Super “ frame.
As most frames were built to order there would have been a lot of variation in the choice of parts in the build. I think that the embossed wording on the underside of the bottom bracket relates to the manufacturer of the part. sorry not to be any more helpful – the lack of period data is the limiting factor.
Pedals arrived and surprised at just how lightweight they are - 11.6 oz for the pair.
Oil ports on the axle -
Wheels arrived and sold as 27" but would appear to be 26". They need a good degrease -
Rear rim has - Asp 26 stamped either side of the valve hole , Cannot find any markings on front-
Looking at Sheldon Brown and rim size page https://www.sheldonbrown.com/rim-sizing.html
The ISO Bead Seat Diameter is 597mm for
26 x 1 1/4 and 26 x 1 3/8.
These measure 600mm approx.
I cannot figure out how to determine whether I need 26 x 1 1/4 or 26 x 1 3/8 tyres?
With some help from @BobbyBriggs that
26x1 1/4 are 597.
I also re read the Sheldon article again and did the maths with the diameter measurement
23.5" x 25. 4 =596.9
So ordered a pair of schwable HS130 tyres.
Tried the wheels with the frame -
@clubman I wonder if you can give me some more guidance on Resilion brakes as I'm still a bit confused around what to look for.
Looking at a Resilion catalogue, (courtesy of VCC library)
There are two types of quadrant brackets, one for the front and one for rear brakes which were made in a number of sizes.
There are then the clamping shields to fit the quadrant brackets and these shields appear to be one shape but come in different sizes to fit the quadrants.
You have pointed out above -
Each brake has to the right size for the frame member it goes onto so, for example, a front brake intended for round section forks will not fit D section blades. The differences include the detachable bar which holds the cable nipple and the brake shoes - so if you have a pile of assorted Resilion bits you need a fair amount of luck to find a set that matches
Is it that you need to measure the rear stay or fork blade and then match this to the correct sized quadrant and correct sized shield? As it appears that this is the only difference between the quadrants /shields in the catalogue and they do not appear to be available in different shapes for specific tubing such as round /oval or D shaped blades.
I hope this query makes sense.
Any help will be much appreciated.
Sorry to have been a bit slow responding, but although it's not exactly a case of the blind leading the blind, it's no better than the partially sighted leading the way.
Yes, I've got a bike with Resilion brakes which work, but I'm not completely satisfied that I've got everything right. Also I had it fairly easy because the bike came with a front Resilion and I happened to have a rear brake which fitted.
As I said above and as the catalogue shows, the possibilities are many and various.
The first thing you need are quadrant brackets which fit your frame. The bracket assembly shown below seemed to be a good fit on D section front forks, but thinking about your problems I compared this brake with the one fitted to my bike which has round fork blades - I was surprised to find that they seem to be identical. It's just possible the brake I'm using is the wrong fitting for my forks and that's why I'm getting a problem with juddering (yes, the headset is in adjustment).
It's hard to know how to resolve this - most of the people who would have known have joined the majority, sad to say.
Next you need brake blocks which are suitable for your frame and the rims you are using. As you can see there were three possibilities. But even if you have found the correct original blocks I think there is a question mark over their condition today. They'll probably be ok with steel rims, except that you won't be able to stop when it's raining, but mine seem to be too hard for my Constrictor Boalloy rims, although I can stop, even in the wet.
I've run out of time tonight - we'll do cables later.
I took a chance on a set of front brakes, Even establishing front brakes from rear brakes is sometimes near impossible from listings as seller's don't always take enough photographs.
I bought these anyway -
A couple of days evapo rust (brilliant tip by @Big_Block ) later -
This brake appears to have been made up of different parts as there is a black enamel part (quadrant) and clamp shield nickel or chrome.
Unfortunately these brakes are too big for my forks but I now have an idea of the size of brake that I need.
Quadrant and shield together
Size of quadrant
Fork blade size
So when fitting the quadrant and shield to the fork, It is far too big to enable it to be clamped.
I have considered wrapping the fork in tape, Either handlebar /insulation but don't think this will be suitable and the danger of the canti coming free whilst cycling doesn't bear thinking about -
Bought some Bantel mudguards manufactured by B & T Components Ltd.
They look mid 40s but I could be wrong -
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