Maclean's Featherweight - Mid 40s

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  • I took the bolt out, put a big screwdriver in and used it as a lever to unwind the what’s effectively a big threaded nut...

    Look away now

  • I looked at doing that but thought that it would damage the fork steerer thread's - I take it that you use screwdriver to prise the clip open as you undo it??

  • It was only way I could see of doing it but #iannotamechanic and luckily it worked for me. Might be better to page someone who knows how to do this properly :/

  • Thanks, I'll put a query on the 50s page :)

  • sub'd and was just thinking that a quick solution to the Resilion brakes scarcity/cost/faff to get you on the road could be to use some clamp on track brakes?

  • Combo of prising it open and removing and this one has no thread.
    Headset removed and race's cleaned


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  • Right, Stuck at the first hurdle - How do you remove a clip style headset?

    Help!

    It's not difficult.

    Remove the top locknut and washer
    Undo clamp bolt
    The clamp should now be free. If necessary, help it with a few light taps with a hammer. If it's very tight expand the clip by driving a wedge into it. Don't use a lot of force - it should come easily.
    When the forks are out, carefully inspect the slots in the steering tube for any cracks - it has been known for the top of the steerer to break off, with possibly fatal results.

    Also inspect the bottom race cups for pitting - if you're very lucky these might not need replacing. The top race will probably be fine, look after it.

    I forgot to mention earlier - if you decide not to use a Resilion front brake you will need to drill through the fork crown . This needs to be done with care DO NOT try to do this with a hand drill -it's only too easy to get the hole in the wrong place and end up with a wonky calliper.

  • Thanks for the advice.
    Forks look good around the slots in the steerer tube


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  • That could work you know.

  • No marks /numbers on the steerer.

    I've read before that steerer tubes on Maclean's can hold tubing info.

    The seat tube is 27.2mm


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  • Headclip bearings - Looking to buy new bearings and measuring the ones used they are 3mm or 0.12"

    Reading up on headclip bearings they seem they were either 5/32in, 1/8in or 3/16in.

    Maths -
    1/8in =3.175mm
    5/32in =3.969mm
    3/16in = 4.762mm

    Based on this I will purchase 1/8in as this is the closest match.

  • Bit of a clean -


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  • And


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  • Nice project this! Reminds me of my grandma’s 1936 Merlin, which I must get round to putting back together. Currently it’s on the wall..
    Resilions also could also be attached with a bolt through the forks/seat stays, as they are on my tandem. I agree they’re hard to set up and on a slightly wonky wheel as my rear tandem wheel is, they’re not very effective. Luckily I also have a hub brake on that wheel. The front one is great tho. I managed to find some old blocks to use, but modern removable v brake blocks also fit. However they’re very thin and will wear out in no time.


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  • Thanks @BobbyBriggs, That Merlin looks great.

  • Cleaned off the grease and grime and the paint is in pretty good condition -


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  • And


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  • One small ding to the seat tube is the only damage I can find -


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  • .


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  • Found what could be a maker's mark on the BB between the stays.
    There is a Y
    and then above it a +-
    And these marks both appear intentional as apposed to damage from wear and tear.


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  • Cranks


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  • Forks after a clean.
    Chrome is non existent in places but all appears solid -


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  • Looking good!

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Maclean's Featherweight - Mid 40s

Posted by Avatar for SideshowBob @SideshowBob

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