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• #27
.
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• #28
I took the bolt out, put a big screwdriver in and used it as a lever to unwind the what’s effectively a big threaded nut...
Look away now
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• #29
I looked at doing that but thought that it would damage the fork steerer thread's - I take it that you use screwdriver to prise the clip open as you undo it??
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• #30
It was only way I could see of doing it but #iannotamechanic and luckily it worked for me. Might be better to page someone who knows how to do this properly :/
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• #31
Thanks, I'll put a query on the 50s page :)
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• #32
sub'd and was just thinking that a quick solution to the Resilion brakes scarcity/cost/faff to get you on the road could be to use some clamp on track brakes?
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• #33
Combo of prising it open and removing and this one has no thread.
Headset removed and race's cleaned
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• #34
Right, Stuck at the first hurdle - How do you remove a clip style headset?
Help!
It's not difficult.
Remove the top locknut and washer
Undo clamp bolt
The clamp should now be free. If necessary, help it with a few light taps with a hammer. If it's very tight expand the clip by driving a wedge into it. Don't use a lot of force - it should come easily.
When the forks are out, carefully inspect the slots in the steering tube for any cracks - it has been known for the top of the steerer to break off, with possibly fatal results.Also inspect the bottom race cups for pitting - if you're very lucky these might not need replacing. The top race will probably be fine, look after it.
I forgot to mention earlier - if you decide not to use a Resilion front brake you will need to drill through the fork crown . This needs to be done with care DO NOT try to do this with a hand drill -it's only too easy to get the hole in the wrong place and end up with a wonky calliper.
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• #35
Thanks for the advice.
Forks look good around the slots in the steerer tube
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• #36
That could work you know.
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• #37
No marks /numbers on the steerer.
I've read before that steerer tubes on Maclean's can hold tubing info.
The seat tube is 27.2mm
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• #38
Headclip bearings - Looking to buy new bearings and measuring the ones used they are 3mm or 0.12"
Reading up on headclip bearings they seem they were either 5/32in, 1/8in or 3/16in.
Maths -
1/8in =3.175mm
5/32in =3.969mm
3/16in = 4.762mmBased on this I will purchase 1/8in as this is the closest match.
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• #39
Bit of a clean -
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• #40
And
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• #41
Nice project this! Reminds me of my grandma’s 1936 Merlin, which I must get round to putting back together. Currently it’s on the wall..
Resilions also could also be attached with a bolt through the forks/seat stays, as they are on my tandem. I agree they’re hard to set up and on a slightly wonky wheel as my rear tandem wheel is, they’re not very effective. Luckily I also have a hub brake on that wheel. The front one is great tho. I managed to find some old blocks to use, but modern removable v brake blocks also fit. However they’re very thin and will wear out in no time.
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• #42
Thanks @BobbyBriggs, That Merlin looks great.
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• #43
Cleaned off the grease and grime and the paint is in pretty good condition -
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• #44
And
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• #45
One small ding to the seat tube is the only damage I can find -
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• #46
.
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• #47
Found what could be a maker's mark on the BB between the stays.
There is a Y
and then above it a +-
And these marks both appear intentional as apposed to damage from wear and tear.
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• #48
Cranks
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• #49
Forks after a clean.
Chrome is non existent in places but all appears solid -
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• #50
Looking good!
Thanks @Jonny69