Maclean's Featherweight - Mid 40s

Thanks @Jonny69

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I took the bolt out, put a big screwdriver in and used it as a lever to unwind the what’s effectively a big threaded nut...

Look away now

I looked at doing that but thought that it would damage the fork steerer thread's - I take it that you use screwdriver to prise the clip open as you undo it??

It was only way I could see of doing it but #iannotamechanic and luckily it worked for me. Might be better to page someone who knows how to do this properly :/

Thanks, I'll put a query on the 50s page :)

sub'd and was just thinking that a quick solution to the Resilion brakes scarcity/cost/faff to get you on the road could be to use some clamp on track brakes?

Combo of prising it open and removing and this one has no thread.
Headset removed and race's cleaned

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Right, Stuck at the first hurdle - How do you remove a clip style headset?

Help!

It's not difficult.

Remove the top locknut and washer
Undo clamp bolt
The clamp should now be free. If necessary, help it with a few light taps with a hammer. If it's very tight expand the clip by driving a wedge into it. Don't use a lot of force - it should come easily.
When the forks are out, carefully inspect the slots in the steering tube for any cracks - it has been known for the top of the steerer to break off, with possibly fatal results.

Also inspect the bottom race cups for pitting - if you're very lucky these might not need replacing. The top race will probably be fine, look after it.

I forgot to mention earlier - if you decide not to use a Resilion front brake you will need to drill through the fork crown . This needs to be done with care DO NOT try to do this with a hand drill -it's only too easy to get the hole in the wrong place and end up with a wonky calliper.

Thanks for the advice.
Forks look good around the slots in the steerer tube

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That could work you know.

No marks /numbers on the steerer.

I've read before that steerer tubes on Maclean's can hold tubing info.

The seat tube is 27.2mm

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Headclip bearings - Looking to buy new bearings and measuring the ones used they are 3mm or 0.12"

Reading up on headclip bearings they seem they were either 5/32in, 1/8in or 3/16in.

Maths -
1/8in =3.175mm
5/32in =3.969mm
3/16in = 4.762mm

Based on this I will purchase 1/8in as this is the closest match.

Bit of a clean -

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And

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Nice project this! Reminds me of my grandma’s 1936 Merlin, which I must get round to putting back together. Currently it’s on the wall..
Resilions also could also be attached with a bolt through the forks/seat stays, as they are on my tandem. I agree they’re hard to set up and on a slightly wonky wheel as my rear tandem wheel is, they’re not very effective. Luckily I also have a hub brake on that wheel. The front one is great tho. I managed to find some old blocks to use, but modern removable v brake blocks also fit. However they’re very thin and will wear out in no time.

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Thanks @BobbyBriggs, That Merlin looks great.

Cleaned off the grease and grime and the paint is in pretty good condition -

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And

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One small ding to the seat tube is the only damage I can find -

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.

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Found what could be a maker's mark on the BB between the stays.
There is a Y
and then above it a +-
And these marks both appear intentional as apposed to damage from wear and tear.

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Cranks

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Forks after a clean.
Chrome is non existent in places but all appears solid -

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Looking good!