Maclean's Featherweight - Mid 40s

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  • Bought a Maclean's Featherweight the other day.
    Frame No K333 which looks like it will be post war around 1946.

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  • Fork Crown

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  • Lugs are interesting

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  • .

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  • BB-with 714N and 11

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  • Seat tube

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  • And

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  • Frame Number on drive side seat tube and the rear of the fork crown

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  • Rear seats stays with various add ons it would appear over the years -

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  • Ah, nice. What’s that big screw thing in the fork crown drilling? Restoring or running as is?

  • Thanks

    Restoring or running as is?

    Oily rag and build up.

    What’s that big screw thing in the fork crown drilling

    yeah this is odd as the front of the fork is not drilled for brakes. I'm thinking that Resilion brakes would have been used.

  • But no other fixings on the fork (Resilion are like canti's?)

  • Resilion brakes were clamped to forks or rear stays from what I can see with no need for a fixing point - images courtesy of the VCC library

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  • Makes sense. Big screw thing still a mystery :)

  • The forks have a big area of missing paint beneath the crown which also suggests Resilion to me :)

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  • Sub'd :)

  • Very nice. I always liked the look of Resilion brakes. Apparently they're were pretty good stoppers for the time.

  • Thanks.
    Never owned any Resilion brakes and I think that I've read somewhere they were notoriously difficult to set up :)

  • I have succeeded in making Resilion brakes work quite well, but it was a bit of a struggle.

    Here are some of the problems:

    Each brake has to the right size for the frame member it goes onto so, for example, a front brake intended for round section forks will not fit D section blades. The differences include the detachable bar which holds the cable nipple and the brake shoes - so if you have a pile of assorted Resilion bits you need a fair amount of luck to find a set that matches.

    The cables don't last for ever, but they have to be in good condition (no fraying!). I recently had one made - it was quite expensive and only just fitted. The cables are not easy to lubricate - the makers suggested soaking the whole cable in a bath of oil from time to time.

    Brake blocks. Again there are at least two sizes, necessary because of the limited adjustment. Modern blocks can be made to fit the shoes, but the original blocks were angled upwards from the shoe which means that it's difficult to get modern replacements at the correct angle to the rim's braking area. A few original blocks can still be found, but since they must be at least sixty years old, they seem to me to be too hard to work ar their best.

    In a nutshell: if the factory still existed to provide service these brakes would be fine - unfortunately now you're on your own!

    The bolt in the fork crown is for the mudguard.

    If you're having any work done on this frame don't forget to repair the damaged mudguard stay mounting on the r/h seatstay. As you know, I would remove the lamp bracket boss.

    I would expect this frame to ride well and be the basis for excellent machine - good luck with it.

  • Lovely. Will be following with great interest.

  • Looks perfect, I like that!

  • Right, Stuck at the first hurdle - How do you remove a clip style headset?

  • @clubman Thanks very much for pointers on Resilion brakes, Very useful.

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Maclean's Featherweight - Mid 40s

Posted by Avatar for SideshowBob @SideshowBob