• Whilst this is back up, here's a photo of the build so far....

    Aside from the stem, there are a few other issues:

    • The wheels have somehow gone out of true so I need to get them sorted.
    • One of the DT shifters also got squashed out of shape, which I only noticed when I tried to put them back on. Had a spare in the box but have a feeling it's in the box because it's already knackered. Seems to work for now but might need replacing.
    • The bottom bracket has developed a nasty creaking noise since I washed it with soapy water... and the plastic non-driveside cup got a bit mangled when I was putting it in. Need to unscrew it and have a proper look, but it is about 30 years old so maybe it's time to replace it anyway.
    • I think I need to move the front light back a bit so it doesn't flop about and snap the mudguard (which is what happened to the Varonha after a few weeks of bumpy roads).

    Otherwise, I think it's coming together quite nicely:


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  • I was hoping you would leave some of the red paint, somewhere along these lines V


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  • and the plastic non-driveside cup got a bit mangled when I was putting it in

    I needed one of these when I built my Look MTB, @harry very kindly sent two to me, slightly different from each other and I used one. Let me know if the other of any use in your case.

  • Front part of mudguard needs a stay (your current light hole can be re-used for this), then you can put the light further forward instead, it looks a bit weird that far back as it is.

    I’m surprised you didn’t just piss on the frame before clearcoat, for a blotchy vibe.

  • Second stay for front of mudguard also was my first thought, probably from the eyelets mid fork.
    Or do the right thing and have a rack to mount the light.

  • Ah, I see what you mean.
    With all the bubbled-up paint and burn marks from the extra braze-ons, it would've been way too much like hard work to achieve that kind of effect.

    Really I was just going for the same finish as the Dawes had with as little work as possible!

  • Oh, cool man, thanks!
    I didn't get round to investigating it further today but will let you know if I need a spare plastic thing : )

  • @Skülly : Agree re struts - seems eminently sensible.
    @c.h.e. (pfff, full stops don't allow me tag) : mid fork eyelets is a good idea. I'm all set up for low-riders so probably won't be getting anything else for now. I quite like having the light over the front wheel anyway... Not that I've ever mounted one off to the side, but I imagine it's less effective with the wheel in the way?

  • In other news: been trying to make a start on the canti set-up tonight and have run into a very annoying problem: when the blocks aren't touching the rim (ie: when the brakes aren't being used), it's impossible to position the blocks so they don't rub on the underside of the balloony tyres.

    My big fear is that the new canti studs are a fraction too high for the new wheels. I think the angle from lower down would allow the line of travel I'm looking for. But it might also be because the wheels are out of true, as it does work for some of the rotation, just not all of it. But even then the clearance is wafer thin and the blocks would have to be extremely close to the braking surface for them to clear the tyre, so not ideal.

    Another thing that might be causing the mischief is the rear wheel not sitting straight in the drop-outs: It looks central enough between the seat stays, but is very much not central between the chain stays (there's about 3mm clearance on the left and about 8mm on the right).

    So who knows... another classic example of "I'll just quickly do that little thing" turning into an entire evening of bafflement and swearing!

    EDIT: difficult to photograph, but you can see how close the top edge of the block is to the bottom of the tyre bulge:


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  • spare plastic thing

    Sorry, was meant to say these are the nicer aluminum ones.

  • Even better!
    Has to be said that plastic is the stupidest possible material for BB cups.

  • canti studs are a fraction too high

    When I recently refurbished a Dawes Londoner for my mum (Winston re spaced the rear triangle for 130mm for me), I used 700c wheels on a frame meant for 27-1/4 wheels. Completely forgot about canti studs at the time, didn't cross my mind to ask Winston to relocate them. So I was de facto in a similar situation to yours, with higher than normal studs in relation to the rim. Turns out I had various brakes to choose from in the part bin (Shimano cantis, Shimano mini-Vs, Tektro cantis, and old Lee Chi cantis). Some worked other didn't, and in the end I used the Lee Chis. So solution might be in an alternative canti spec?

  • You might well be right.... I have two Shimano sets here and I think one works marginally better than the other.

    Difficult to know what the problem is before I get the wheels trued and the tracking fixed, so those are my next chores.

    Winston had the wheels and the brakes in the workshop so it's unlikely he'd get it wrong.

  • I have just ordered “slim” brake pads. I hope they will help me get my baloony tyres out without deflating. Not sure if that would help you but they might be cheaper than new cantis?

    Regarding the uneven space between the chain stays I can say that mine are slightly uneven too. Winston was very hesitant and didn’t want to do more crimping then necessary. It’s not as extreme for me though. More like 2mm.

  • Cheers @Oddo

    My parnter's bike has slim pads so will give it a go... worth a try!

    I'm pretty sure the chainstay thing predates Winston's mods... I remember it going in wonky a couple of times in the workshop. I suspect it's been badly coldset or something. Hopefully fixable.

  • Maybe try angling the pads a bit down, so they lift less when released. Or use V brakes ;) which are awesome.

    Here’s inspiration for mudguard belt & braces..


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  • Cheers @Skülly : )
    Serious question: are V-brakes likely to be the solution to this?

    Just waiting to get the wheels back from Arup... hopefully it will easier when the wheels are perfect circles, but not going to get my hopes up.

  • Not really sure, truth be told.

  • are V-brakes likely to be the solution to this?

    Don't know about V-brakes bit with higher than normal bosses on the Dawes, mini-Vs didn't work

  • Hmm, if that's as low as the pad will go in the slot you may need to try different cantis.

  • I just remembered I have “offset brake pad holders” on a fixed gear with very tight clearances. They allowed me to push the pads up that small notch needed more than my brake would do. Maybe they will do?


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  • Just looking at your brakes… you would still need new ones to fit these pads I guess. I run tektro cr720 which are slotted like most v brakes.

  • Light below/next to a front rack works great, wheel isn't in the way of the beam.
    Only thing I don't like ist that its not visible from one side.

  • Cheers man, these actually look like just the ticket... although seemingly not available in a smooth post canti option, so I'd probably have to get new brakes. (EDIT: only just read your second comment).

    Winston has done some work sorting out the tracking, and Arup is currently re-trueing the wheels... so we'll see what's what when everything's back here.

    @jontea - If all else fails,it'll probably be easier to get the canti studs brought down a few more millimetres. The thought of randomly trial-and-erroring my way through every brake on the market until something works makes me feel slightly depressed!

  • I think this is why I prefer the light being in the middle / above the bags, wheel, forks, etc
    Most of my touring has been in Europe so it makes sense to have the light where people on both sides of the road will be able to see it.

    That said, is bike touring in Europe even a thing any more?!

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Varonha Frameworks winter bike / FW Evans 650b conversion rat bike fun

Posted by Avatar for .gaz. @.gaz.

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