Making the 911 that Porsche were too sensible to consider

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  • Painted the indicator section of some Litronics.

  • Reckon I've missed it, but what you fitting to compensate for the rolled arches? Or is it a case of same wheels, modified suspension?

  • BBS split rims, I believe.

  • I'm gonna go with 'alternate universe me is surprised' for £500 Brommers.
    @Dammit if so, ain't this straying a little away from the original ethos?

  • BBS make all the OEM wheels for the 996, the Cup cars roll on E88’s, the LM (which I am getting) is less delicate than the E88 but still a very focussed performance wheel design (forged, three piece and so forth), and it was standard fit for upgraded GT3’s BITD. It works with my “could have been specified like this from the dealer” ethos.

  • Solid choice on the wheels. Real LM's are a beautiful thing.

  • Looks great!

  • Fair fair, I assumed wrongly you wanted it to kept as fast aesthetically can be from anything resembling race car or homologation. Personally I think E88's still lock pretty slick and give the car a purposefulness. What's the seat layout like right now?
    Reckon halfway between stock and track sleeper will work very well for your 911.

  • We made some changes to the lid of the pump as the first iteration didn't align correctly with the inlet pipe. Old at the top, new at the bottom:

    It's a small change, but it makes the difference between having to force the inlet pipe into place and it all going together perfectly.

    The pumps really are things of beauty, from a machining point of view:

    And on (Martins) car (mine arrives tomorrow):

    Martin made a short video of the differences between the Mezger (GT3) engine, the M96, and the M96 X51 oil scavenge systems.

    https://youtu.be/X7Lxrj6yYro

  • Mike's the chap who has designed our heads, and collaborated with Piper on the cams: https://mailchi.mp/thornleykelham.com/th­ornley-kelham-joins-forces-with-race-tec­hniques?fbclid=IwAR3HfSzAZ3sIFv8G3YptWur­y3M2TBtmoL0LzcBQzNZPvkYayObGeoobXwYc

    I knew he had had some success in competition, but I'd not seen the details before.

  • i think there is a youtube video where the skinny wolverine went to their workshop

  • I’m going to drop the car off at Auto Audio next week to have more work done.

    The rear seats in these cars are pretty comical- but in the cabriolet they are really silly because the deploy-on-rollover hoops live behind the seat backs, and take up a lot of space.

    I’m going to remove the seats in the back, and the fitted carpet, potentially the door cards and have AA turn the rear into a luggage area with tie-down points and a removable webbing bulkhead that fits behind the front seats. At the same time I’ll get them to replace (or re-dye) the carpets to a dark, navy blue as I think that will look much better than the OEM light blue.

    This will mean trimming the bottom of the doors as well, as they match the floor.

    I’d like the wheel trimmed in the same Porsche blue leather as the interior (Cup steering wheels are suede, which gets a bit sad when you don’t wear gloves).

    And finally I might swap the door speakers for Morel units, replacing the butyl Hertz ones, as the Morels in the dash (silk) are really good. The stereo is excellent tbh, although I don’t like the head unit as it’s crap from a usability perspective, so there’s a chance I might go for the modern PCCM single DIN.

  • How far away are you from getting the engine up and running?

  • I’m going to remove the seats in the back, and the fitted carpet, potentially the door cards and have AA turn the rear into a luggage area with tie-down points and a removable webbing bulkhead that fits behind the front seats.

    Will this affect the soundproofing? As the rear seat help with soundproof, by removing them, will you be more expose to the engine noise?

    Signed; a deaf as fuck person.

  • For sure it will, even my little Clio gets so much louder when the rear seats are removed - and that has the engine in the front.

    Dynamat would help here.

  • How far away are you from getting the engine up and running?

    We've got all the parts, an engine has been dry-built and tolerances, compression ratio etc checked, we're now waiting for the modified tappet chests to be machined (oiling holes have to change location due to the base circle of our cams being smaller than stock), the cams themselves need to be ground, the ITB's need to be CNC'd and finished, and the exhaust manifolds need to be made. And we need an engine harness for the engine dyno, but I think Martin has made that already.

    Once the above is done it's engine dyno time (which is very intimidating tbh, what if we only make the same power after all this? Or less?!) after which, if all goes well, it's time to put the engine in the car and then run it up on the rolling road to re-tune (if needed) with in-car air-flows etc.

  • Will this affect the soundproofing? As the rear seat help with soundproof, by removing them, will you be more expose to the engine noise?

    Signed; a deaf as fuck person.

    It's not like there's a conventional rear bench in these cars - you have two very small pads that sit in the recesses either side of the (very large) transmission tunnel. I've not had one of them in since March last year (used for the leather colour match for the seat and then forgotten about) and I could not tell any difference. Bear in mind the car has no roof, so it's not the quietest place in the world.

  • Sounds promising!
    How many HP are you hoping for post mods?

  • Outright power is secondary to how it's delivered, so we want an engine that revs extremely freely (did I mention the button clutch?) and revs hard to the 8,500 red-line.

    We also want the absolute opposite of the "lots of torque early on, may as well change gears early" feeling that is common to a lot of modern cars, although we also don't want it to have no torque below 5,000 rpm.

    The character element is why we're using dynamic trumpets on the ITB's (approach "borrowed" from a Yamaha race engine) to smooth the resonant frequency induced torque peaks that you get otherwise.

    I'm also wary about giving a hostage to fortune! I'd say we would be disappointed if we got 996.1 GT3 power, and happy if we got 996.2 GT3 power. Over the moon if we got above that.

  • i just found this thread yesterday and it is by far one of the most thoroughly planned motor upgrades EVAR!! highly stoked on the final power output

  • It's a little frustrating as there's some stuff (and of course it's the most interesting) that I can't talk about because it's IP, and it's not my exclusively my IP.

  • Agreed on the work with Auto Audio this morning, quite a lot in the end.

    • There's some lacquer peel on the front bumper, which is annoying, and so they're going to re-spray it.
    • For the luggage area they'll remove the rear seats, seat belts etc, remove the carpets that line that area, make a flat(er) area, re-trim in navy alcantara, and make a removable fabric bulkhead that separates the luggage area from the front of the car. The OEM wind-deflector will be used a lid for this new luggage "bin".
    • Re-trim in navy alcantara the bottom of the doors, the sides of the tub, kick panels, rear lower 1/4 panels, and lower centre tunnel
    • Paint the centre console in body-colour
    • Re-trim the steering wheel in navy alcantara
    • Replace the door speakers with Morel hybrid 502 woofers
    • New Porsche floor matts (black)
    • Replace the "beep! beep! beep!" reversing sensor with a green/amber/red LED display
    • Rub back the (painted) headlights and repaint in an amber that matches the side and rear indicators (river and more vibrant than the current amber on the front lights is the goal)
    • Fit luggage tie-downs and supply matching luggage net for the front luggage compartment (there's a sheet of carpeted ply that sits ontop of the foam tray), fit a handle and so forth.
  • How is the above checklist coming along?

    Also idk if you saw this in AQA, but thought you might be interested: https://www.lfgss.com/comments/15838032/­

  • The car's with them, we've been doing (where "we" is a PHD student with access to the software and the skills to use it) the most refined engine simulations that we can (short of digitally scanning the engine) in order to establish what exhaust manifold diameter and length we need.

    I can reveal that 57mm OD tube would be spot on for 423 (simulated) horsepower, but sadly at an rpm that is above the point at which we encounter valve-train separation. So we're going for 50mm OD instead.

    Very much in the spirit of this thread we're also now doing a complete exhaust, which on a 996/997 is, erm, extensive.

    You have a manifold on each side, underneath the relevant head, which then feeds into a pipe that contains the cat. These cross over one another behind the car, before connecting to the silencer which is hung to the side of the engine on stand-offs from the heads.

    This means that when you look at the exhausts the left hand bank is evacuated through the right hand exhaust and vice versa.

    My car currently has an X-pipe design which blends each bank slightly (meant to improve cylinder scavenging), but the sim doesn't show any benefit to that for our new engine so I doubt we will go this route.

  • Oh, and we've registered a company in order that we can offer our oil pumps for sale (once we have worked out what to charge for them).

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Making the 911 that Porsche were too sensible to consider

Posted by Avatar for Dammit @Dammit

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