Could deffo work. Do please have a look, but only if it's not too much bother. Ta very much.
no problems, it's just in the garage but i'm currently isolating pending a test (FML)
will report back tonight
What rims did you go for its the end?
DCR Flirt, 23mm deep in polished aluminium finish, 20/24h.
When built with the DCR hubs and Sapim D-Light spokes the wheelset should be about 1425g or so, which is not bad for £278 in parts.
They end up a similar cost to the eBay 38mm/50mm carbon wheels but 150-200g lighter, with better braking performance and will be more serviceable. Though admittedly not quite as bad-ass.
Nice, I went for the 30mm profile in the same lacing. I've not had a chance to use them yet but they're really nicely finished rims.
Be interested to see how narrow the brake track is, might go for the 23's on another build.
Where have you found the M186 for £50?!
OK, so it measures somewhere between 110 and 115. I couldn't get a super precise measurement because it has bars in still. Nice condition for its age with a couple of minor scratches/scuffs on the logo plate and not much else. this stem was famous for losing its bolt cover, and as i say i think i have at least one spare. definitely had two at one point.
let me know and i'll take it off the bars, clean it, and photograph it.
Nah it was the M106 I saw for £50, at Planet X.
Nice! I'm sure they'll be proper stiff in the 30mm depth.
I'm going enjoy building them. David mentions the rim beds are rated to 300kgf (i.e. ~3000N) which allows for higher tensions. I don't have a spoke tension meter but I do have a piano! A wheelbuilder once told me to aim for A above middle C, that was a Kinlin 270 rim I think. I will maybe just pick a note a few keys up. I like E. Perhaps Eb to keep it moody. If anyone near N16 has a spoke tension meter and wouldn't mind a 5 minute visitor next week - it'd be interesting to test out this theory.
Ok thanks. I'll do some bike fit and geometry tomorrow to confirm the size I need.
As for aesthetics... What does the bike snob hive mind think about the combination of:
This project stalled for reasons. Then I decided that the red rims are too nice to change out, so I will keep them. They match the decals so well. Their 36 spokes mean that a carbon 10s groupset will look odd, as pointed out earlier in this thread.
So how to achieve the modern groupset on an old frame vibe? I was tempted to buy a nicer frame. But I realised that a nicer frame will have thinner tubing and will likely get dented, so I won't want to lock it anywhere. This rules out 95% of my riding. So I decided for now to simply tart this Daccordi up a bit, keep it as Athena 8s, and see how I go. @606 sorted me out with a decent chainset and BB, which works well.
The bike deserves a proper polish so I'll give the frame the T-Cut treatment when I'm back in the UK. For now I'm riding it around Rwanda. The gearing is nearly low enough to be comfortable on the hills.
Aaaaand had a nice smash around the hills near Lake Kivu (near to Congo).
Sweet :) quite mountainous, how do you get on with the oldschool gearing?
It's lovely but these bars are not designed for a flat transition to the hood. Angled like this you have made the drops barely useable (and the reach artificially long).
Also, more pics of Rwandan roads please.
Yup, it annoys me too.
I have a set of Deda Piegas with me that I intended to swap in for the Eubios bars, which is currently on the 12cm Cinelli stem. The Piegas are 26.0 but I have a new Nitto 100mm stem to fit, and some grip tape. So I have all the parts and I could swap over to nice modern compact drops. It'd be stiffer too.
But I hesitate to switch them. When I sprint my knees come within 2cm of my bars, so a 2cm shorter stem was probably a silly idea. I might still do it for the multi-day ride I have planned soon, because this would spare my neck: Right now when I do the cubit test, i.e. elbow on saddle tip, my fingers are >5 cm from my bars. This is all down to my long thighs... To get anywhere near KOPS I need my saddle slammed totally to the aft.
Basically I have a weird bike fit and it makes things rather complicated.
The gearing is not ideal. Not terrible though. You find yourself at the bottom of a climb and remember that this one takes about half an hour so you find bottom gear. You note your cadence is about~70 rpm. You can then either grin and bear it or weave side-to-side like a paperboy to bring the cadence up. Or you can do intervals at a higher cadence and effort, taking the rests while rolling super slowly.
Or just hang on to the back of a truck along with your 4 friends like the young Rwandan cyclists.
surely the Piegas will be shallower, so your knee may not be too close to your bars even with a shorter stem, due to the angle your leg will be at as it passes them (this doesn't exactly make sense but I can't think better how to word it)
Thanks for the response. I actually mean that my knee, at the top of the pedal stroke when standing, comes within 2cm of my handlebars. I mean the straight section my handlebars near the stem clamp, not the drops.
Oh I see, Maybe don't get a shorter stem then! Piegas are still great bars though, they have a lovely and comfortable straight transition with Campagnolo shifter hoods
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Congrats to Tao on winning the Giro