90s Daccordi: Complete rebuild with Chorus carbon (10s)

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  • Could deffo work. Do please have a look, but only if it's not too much bother. Ta very much.

  • no problems, it's just in the garage but i'm currently isolating pending a test (FML)

    will report back tonight

  • What rims did you go for its the end?

  • DCR Flirt, 23mm deep in polished aluminium finish, 20/24h.

    When built with the DCR hubs and Sapim D-Light spokes the wheelset should be about 1425g or so, which is not bad for £278 in parts.

    They end up a similar cost to the eBay 38mm/50mm carbon wheels but 150-200g lighter, with better braking performance and will be more serviceable. Though admittedly not quite as bad-ass.

  • Nice, I went for the 30mm profile in the same lacing. I've not had a chance to use them yet but they're really nicely finished rims.

    Be interested to see how narrow the brake track is, might go for the 23's on another build.

  • Where have you found the M186 for £50?!

  • OK, so it measures somewhere between 110 and 115. I couldn't get a super precise measurement because it has bars in still. Nice condition for its age with a couple of minor scratches/scuffs on the logo plate and not much else. this stem was famous for losing its bolt cover, and as i say i think i have at least one spare. definitely had two at one point.

    let me know and i'll take it off the bars, clean it, and photograph it.

  • Nah it was the M106 I saw for £50, at Planet X.

  • Nice! I'm sure they'll be proper stiff in the 30mm depth.

    I'm going enjoy building them. David mentions the rim beds are rated to 300kgf (i.e. ~3000N) which allows for higher tensions. I don't have a spoke tension meter but I do have a piano! A wheelbuilder once told me to aim for A above middle C, that was a Kinlin 270 rim I think. I will maybe just pick a note a few keys up. I like E. Perhaps Eb to keep it moody. If anyone near N16 has a spoke tension meter and wouldn't mind a 5 minute visitor next week - it'd be interesting to test out this theory.

  • Ok thanks. I'll do some bike fit and geometry tomorrow to confirm the size I need.

    As for aesthetics... What does the bike snob hive mind think about the combination of:

    • sanded/polished silver bars, no logos
    • black bar tape + hoods
    • gunmetal 3ttt select quill stem
    • silver ano seatpost, looks similar Nitto Crystal
    • black Romin saddle
  • This project stalled for reasons. Then I decided that the red rims are too nice to change out, so I will keep them. They match the decals so well. Their 36 spokes mean that a carbon 10s groupset will look odd, as pointed out earlier in this thread.

    So how to achieve the modern groupset on an old frame vibe? I was tempted to buy a nicer frame. But I realised that a nicer frame will have thinner tubing and will likely get dented, so I won't want to lock it anywhere. This rules out 95% of my riding. So I decided for now to simply tart this Daccordi up a bit, keep it as Athena 8s, and see how I go. @606 sorted me out with a decent chainset and BB, which works well.

    The bike deserves a proper polish so I'll give the frame the T-Cut treatment when I'm back in the UK. For now I'm riding it around Rwanda. The gearing is nearly low enough to be comfortable on the hills.

  • Aaaaand had a nice smash around the hills near Lake Kivu (near to Congo).

  • Sweet :) quite mountainous, how do you get on with the oldschool gearing?

  • It's lovely but these bars are not designed for a flat transition to the hood. Angled like this you have made the drops barely useable (and the reach artificially long).
    Also, more pics of Rwandan roads please.

  • Yup, it annoys me too.

    I have a set of Deda Piegas with me that I intended to swap in for the Eubios bars, which is currently on the 12cm Cinelli stem. The Piegas are 26.0 but I have a new Nitto 100mm stem to fit, and some grip tape. So I have all the parts and I could swap over to nice modern compact drops. It'd be stiffer too.

    But I hesitate to switch them. When I sprint my knees come within 2cm of my bars, so a 2cm shorter stem was probably a silly idea. I might still do it for the multi-day ride I have planned soon, because this would spare my neck: Right now when I do the cubit test, i.e. elbow on saddle tip, my fingers are >5 cm from my bars. This is all down to my long thighs... To get anywhere near KOPS I need my saddle slammed totally to the aft.

    Basically I have a weird bike fit and it makes things rather complicated.

  • The gearing is not ideal. Not terrible though. You find yourself at the bottom of a climb and remember that this one takes about half an hour so you find bottom gear. You note your cadence is about~70 rpm. You can then either grin and bear it or weave side-to-side like a paperboy to bring the cadence up. Or you can do intervals at a higher cadence and effort, taking the rests while rolling super slowly.

    Or just hang on to the back of a truck along with your 4 friends like the young Rwandan cyclists.

  • surely the Piegas will be shallower, so your knee may not be too close to your bars even with a shorter stem, due to the angle your leg will be at as it passes them (this doesn't exactly make sense but I can't think better how to word it)

  • Thanks for the response. I actually mean that my knee, at the top of the pedal stroke when standing, comes within 2cm of my handlebars. I mean the straight section my handlebars near the stem clamp, not the drops.

  • Oh I see, Maybe don't get a shorter stem then! Piegas are still great bars though, they have a lovely and comfortable straight transition with Campagnolo shifter hoods

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90s Daccordi: Complete rebuild with Chorus carbon (10s)

Posted by Avatar for Ndeipi @Ndeipi