90s Daccordi: Complete rebuild with Chorus carbon (10s)

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  • I'm preparing to replace almost all parts on my Daccordi. I like the aesthetic of the Campagnolo 5-arm Ultra Torque chainset against steel tubes, and the black carbon should look great against the pearl paint and red decals.

    Currently:

    The plan at the moment:

    • Strip all parts off (anyone need 8s Athena parts?)
    • Repair paint chips and scratches with wire wool, Condor touch up paint, T-cut and finally Zymol wax
      (If anyone knows a better process I'm all ears)
    • Rebuild existing red rims onto newer hubs
    • Build bike with 10s carbon Campagnolo groupset

    Parts in hand:
    Campagnolo Chorus 10s Ultra Torque chainset, brakes, shifters, derailleurs, chain & cassette.

    I'm not super happy about the corrosion on the 50t chainring. Should I leave it, wire wool it, or totally sand and polish it?

    Parts needed: (if you have any of these please holler at me)

    • ITA thread Campagnolo Ultra Torque BBcups
    • Romin saddle, black (friendly LFGSSer has reserved me one)
    • 36h road hubs with Campagnolo freehub for 10s, currently leaning towards Miche but open to suggestions
    • Campagnolo gear & brake cable set
    • Fizik black bar tape

    Tools needed (will offer beer if anyone in North London would be so kind as to lend out):

    • 10mm allen key, loooong, to attach Ultra Torque cranks
    • BB tool to remove my current FAG bottom bracket (plastic type)


    Excited!

  • I've got one of these:
    https://www.condorcycles.com/products/ca­mpagnolo-10mm-ultra-torque-allen-key-soc­ket?variant=21386471243859

    you're totally welcome to borrow it - I'm in N16 - but it's definitely worth a fiver if you're passing condor.

  • Very kind offer, thanks. I'm also in N16 btw.

    I agree, definitely worth the £5 as I'm going to Condor for paint anyway. I'll check if a housemate has a ratchet tool for that socket.

  • I must also accept that this new build might be a bit too racey for the Wald basket. How does everyone on fancy bikes carry their stuff??

    Am I right in thinking that a front rack (even a slender type) would look too clunky on this build?

  • Low riders my friend. Low riders.

  • Am I right in thinking that a front rack (even a slender type) would look too clunky on this build?

    Yes

  • I have that groupset and my chainring has the same flaking. I just assumed it was part of the effect and left it :)

  • Anyone trying to sell any 36h road hubs or an ITA thread bottom bracket, before I buy these new?

  • If you're buiding a frame like that with Chorus 10sp and drop bars, you're building a race bike, not a cycle truck. If you want a bike to move stuff, these parts are not exactly putting you in the right direction :).

    Lovely groupset though, I love the shifters and cranks. Looking forward to the result

  • I've enjoyed having the Wald basket on this bike - with Athena 8sp and drop bars - for the last 6 months but yes, Chorus 10sp takes me into more racey territory. I'll just use a backpack/messenger bag and see how I go. Then later I can find/build a second bike for carrying things if I want to go the cycle truck route.

  • Fulcrum torq cups are just rebranded ultra torque and a slightly different colour, cheap here

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fulcrum-R-TOR­Q-External-BB-Cups-OC-81T-Italian-Thread­/292941453273?hash=item4434abd7d9:g:GiwA­AOSwYTtcUbm~

  • Thanks that's a great tip! But why are you confident that they are exactly the same?

  • Because fulcrum is a campagnolo brand & I am using them on my colnago with record ultra torque cranks.

  • Ok amazing thank you!

  • Randonneur rack with a cut/half Wald zip-tied on it. Then you would be able to rotate your bars down and still be able to carry stuff.

  • If you need the tools to install UT BB and cranks, I have both and you're welcome to borrow, in SE5 though

  • Color aside, what’s the rationale for lacing those rims to new hubs? 36h doesn’t really suit the groupset as far as I’m concerned, and you might be better off with something used/prebuilt on Campag hubs, plenty of decent options around.
    Corrosion seems to be a common problem with these coated chainrings/derailleur cages...That being said, the ring looks rather worn already, I’d keep it as is until I sourced a replacement for a price I’m OK with.

    As to the frame, unless it’s surface rust you’re trying to remove, don’t touch the paint with steel wool. A Clay bar works well removing grime from the paint, then maybe a polishing compound (i.e. meguiar’s ultimate compound) to blend in small paint defects and some sort of wax/sealant to top it off. I’d also consider contrasting touch up paint, maybe something complementary to the decals.

  • Thanks for your thoughts.

    Wheels: Yes the fact they are 36h does bother me a little and I could probably find a set of second hand modern wheels for probably £100-150 which would ultimately look better. I was originally thinking of buying some reputable Chinese 38mm carbon rims laced to Novatec hubs as this would look amazing, but they are about £250 and apparently brake poorly in the wet. The Miche hubs cost £80 and I can reuse my spokes/rims to build a wheelset that still brakes in the wet, is red, and is easily serviceable. I've successfully serviced factory wheels before but it's sometimes tricky to source replacement rims, which is a worry (though perhaps I can keep a set alive for years if I use decent pads and keep them clean).

    Chainring: Yes it's a bit worn, but would be fine while I sourced an affordable replacement. There are Stronglight rings available but I'm holding out for a Campagnolo one.

    Paint: I was intending to use steel wool on small areas of chipped paint to remove small spots of surface rust and to improve adhesion for the touch up paint. Then after careful thin layers of touch up paint I would T-cut to blend/smooth these areas in, and lightly T-cut the rest of the paint before using Zymol as a final polishing and waxing step (in place of Meguiar and the wax/sealant). In my research I did see some chat about clay bars but it seems unnecessary if I'm using T-cut.
    Contrasting touch up paint is an interesting idea that I had not considered, I was just hoping to find a very close "pearl white". Is this too optimistic?

  • As I reconsider better wheel options I'm trying to tick a few boxes:

    • lower spoke count
    • hand built if possible
    • plays nice aesthetically with chorus 10s
    • plays nice aesthetically with frame
    • not black ano (boring, ubiquitous)

    Currently considering getting a set of 24h cxp30 rims and lacing up myself. Total wheelset cost ~£200.

    Thoughts?
    Other rim recommendations?

  • Are you set on clinchers or tubs?

  • Clinchers

  • I'd say something with a bit of a lower profile than the CXP and maybe dark grey but the current plan sounds good also

  • Thanks for this kind offer btw

  • Might as well get prebuilts if you're considering committing to obsolete/hard to find/#notevenperiodcorrect rims. Even the 150$ RRP set of Campagnolo Calimas makes for a better performing/ more future proof option.

  • Got an immaculate set of record/Ambrosio excellight wheels if you like? Would like a decent whack for them though as they have very little use

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90s Daccordi: Complete rebuild with Chorus carbon (10s)

Posted by Avatar for Ndeipi @Ndeipi

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