• No worries. I would be tempted to put a reinforcement ring around it, which would definitely require a framebuilder or some garage/kitchen flame-based frame fettling.

  • Another question for the frame builders:
    Is it possible to make straight stainless disc forks with a 1" steerer for a 'lightish' road bike (ie not a gravel / crust / tourer / beast)?

    What are the options, if any?

  • I'm pretty sure someone had a 1" disc fork made for a weird neo-retro touring bike that was posted here a while ago.

  • Anything is possible, 953 is mighty strong and available in straight blades

  • Cheers both.
    Are there any examples I could look at? To see how it works / looks.
    I've done all sorts of searches but nothing particularly useful is showing up.

  • https://www.instagram.com/p/BV754KZD9nE/­?igshid=o8bo47mb8boq

    These have raked fork blades and 1 1/8 steerer

    Only thing I’ve built that’s similar, they’re 953 blades.

  • @jimjamos- I didn't realise you were Haiku : )
    So you think straight 953 might actually work with discs? Would it would need reinforcing in some way to be on the safe side? (Like this Max fork by Devlin, attached)

    Also, I'm confused about 953 tig welding... I contacted Liz Colebrook from Beaumont (she makes a lot of steel disc forks) to ask her advice, and she replied "Stainless would need to be TIG welded. Ie unicrown, which you say you don't want. A fork crown would be brazed and built with Reynolds 853 or 631".

    Because I'm 100% new to both disc brakes and stainless tubing, I am now confused.... Is yours quite rare for being made with a crown? I'm sure I've seen one by Anderson as well, but most people seem to go with carbon so it's difficult to find examples.

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  • Found the Anderson:

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  • Doesn’t she maybe mean that’s how she would do it, rather than that’s the only way it can be done?

  • Yeah maybe, not sure tbh.

  • Must be. You can deffers use 953 fork legs brazed into a fork crown. If you couldn't, Reynolds wouldn't make 953 non-unicrown fork legs.

  • Now that is what I call a good point!

  • Just in case anyone is interested, I found this project by Victoire Cycles.
    In description it says:

    "We also built a stainless steel fork. The fork crown was completely custom by hand which enabled us to save weight, get a unique style and to adjust perfectly the fork blades. The latter are tailor-made Reynolds 921 with a 55mm rake. They are specially designed for disc-brakes"

    So it seems Reynolds can make 921 fork blades for discs as a special request.

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    • xCDM2-3.jpg.pagespeed.ic.gK9z9VexoE.jpg
  • How much am I looking at to get a derailleur hanger and a set of cable guides added to a steel track bike frame?
    It's just an IRO but I love it and want to ride it all the time rather than replace it.

  • track frames will have the wrong o.l.d so will need to be respaced by 15mm to 135. I have never tried to open up a frame that much but it seems like a lot. maybe ok tho idk.

    Also if the frame doesn't have facilities for a rear brake, you will need to figure out how to get one on there. If the ss bridge is in the right place you could drill it for a brake. However probably best to also braze a reinforcing thing in there so the caliper nut doesnt crush the bridge under heavy braking.

    Brazeons shouldnt be an issue. you could either replace the dropouts with road ones, or just tig a hanger onto the existing dropout. The latter is less work so cheaper.

    So theres a handful of things to do, i have no idea how much itll be but i reckon just get another bike and leave the track frame as is. Get one of those cinelli vigorelli road frames, theyre steel, similar steep geo, and they look cool:)

  • track frames will have the wrong o.l.d so will need to be respaced by 15mm to 135.

    There are 120mm spaced geared hubs out there. I had one that would take a 5 speed screw on block that I used very briefly on my Pompino and I recently saw one with a short freehub body on eBay.

    Also would be more usual to spread a 120mm frame to 127 or 130mm which isn’t so drastic but is still something to consider.

  • thats true op could put fewer gears on, my mind automatically went to 10/11 and disc for some reason. Yeah 130mm should be fine ? Thats not that far to spread it, only 5mm each side

  • Yeah 130 should be fine. Think I stretched my pomp out to that temporarily at one point too and it’s still around!

  • Yeah I cold set it to 130 already, it has a road wheelset in there at the mo, brake is fine, i just need the gear cable stops and a hanger tigged on I guess.

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Customer expectation management: Pls builders help punters not be idiots

Posted by Avatar for Skülly @Skülly