Purchased from the forum.
The frame had some bubbling round the base of the ds seat stay (declared in the advert), and there was a bit of loose material that could be heard moving around if the frame was turned over, so the decision was made to replace the seat stays.
This allowed the colour change from pink to red. I could have tried to get as close as possible a match on the existing paint but felt that it wasn't a problem going with something a little different. The rest of the frame was kept as close as possible to the original. Argos did the work and I'm delighted with it.
Almost all of the original decals were available, and the rest of the paint effects were recreated as close to the original as possible. The seat stays had been engraved with the DANCELLI script, but on examination of the removed tubes it was apparent that a slightly heavier gauge had been used to allow this and so the lettering was recreated with a decal.
For a 25(?) year old frame the overall condition was great but the couple of small dings present were filled.
Here are a couple of photo of the frame after repaint.
The build was mostly easy even though I'm a novice. I've not fitted STI gears before, but the documentation available from shimano was pretty good.
I did have one major issue with fitting the front derailleur - as far as I can see it's not possible to fit the R8000-FD without modifying it, because the wide, flattened section of tube at the bottom of the seat tube means that the mount point for the braze-on is too far out from the centre line of the bike to allow an acceptable chainline. Even with the FD adjusted to the most inboard position the chain had a huge dog leg in it.
Judicious use of the dremel on the part of the derailleur cage next to the H / L adjustment screws allowed it to move about 3mm further inboard and the chainline is now straight (small front sprocket to large rear sprocket). Clearance to the crank arm is pretty tight though. Indexing is all fine.
Headset is the Stronglight X19(?) (roller bearing) that Jeremy provided with the bike, (wheels are mavic open pro on Hope RS4. I know there isn't much love here for the Deda Murex stem, but when the covid19 crazyness is over I'm visiting the bike whisperer to have a fit and I'll wait for the outcome of that - with a view to getting something like a Pro Crome of a suitable length. Will probably wait till after the fit to tape the bars too. Been thinking about moving to speedplay from spds but who knows.
@JeremyDaval - thanks again, I <3 the frame :)
@billygoat8 - yes bought from Jeremy
@JT - it was pink but now red.
Site doesn't want to let me post more than one photo at a time! Looks like the trick is to add them one by one...
I don't discount the possibility that my lack of experience in setting up a bike meant I missed a trick somewhere with the fd setup though. There are a couple of photos where I try to show the difference in offset in the fd braze on position between this and a frame with 'normal' tube, but maybe there is another way to get some further inboard adjustment?
the colour change from pink to red.
the colour change from pink to red.
Y tho :-(
To fuck off mindless pedants.
edit to add - no offence obvs
Couldn't be bothered to wait for stock availability for a matched groupset so finally built this up with what I had and what I could get from eBay (and here). The Nitto UI-12/31.8mm compact bar combo is a revelation - so much stiffer/more comfortable than what I'm used to. Happy to just put some miles on it as it stands, apologies (no - really) to those who find the cheapo Shimano 8speed and the mismatched crankset/brakes offensive. There will be some minor changes - a GS caged rd, and probably a different wheelset.
Routing the cables through the AeroA bars was a PITA.
Just a fraction over 10Kg.
Looks great. Now you have the calipers it would be wrong not to go full R8000!
Silver/grey rims with Veloflex would be really nice.
This looks great. Good effort. Awesome frame & paint finish.
Couldn't resist... have some DA9000 which might be suitable.
What a beast. Can't wait to see it finished
Availability of a couple of key parts is delaying me - can't get hold of a 100mm Nitto UI-12 at the moment and not sure about seatpost.
Refitted a couple of bits of missing coachline tape and checked out the brake clearance. Quite surprised to find that I could get 28C GP5000 to fit both front and rear, although I expect to run 25c.
Current plans are:
R9000 Crankset / Brakes / Shifters
Thomson seatpost (can't find anything carbon in 26.8mm)
Nitto UI-12 quill
Prime Primavera bars
Prime carbon seat
A-Force Al33 on Hope RS4
Those are some amazing bikes you have there. Really like the way you combine modern and vintage bit, without it looking too HHSRB.
That Super Light is really something else. The Ego tubing looks crazy narrow in real life. Really hard to find. I think only Olmo and Concorde built frames with it and some English builders.
I built this a couple of years ago. Same tubing.
Thank you! I did take inspiration from your Squadra build, it’s a lovely looking bike and has an interesting history, definitely a big boy’s toy – Vancraeynest must be huge. I also saw a couple of Olmo Ego frames here and was on the hunt for one. The Max frames are great for bigger riders and I love the details on the Sancineto, plus the frame is in great shape not showing much use. Hopefully the Olmo will be as good to ride. I should probably post my Chesini Innovation here too – that’s what I do most of my miles on at present.
The Ego tubeset is something special though, and you’re right about the amazing tube profiles. Photos don’t seem to show just how narrow the top tube is.
Looking forward to getting the Nitto stem, being able to move on with the build and finding out how it rides.
The Chesini Innovation frame is getting so rusty it's been retired for some attention so the groupset has been moved over to this (thanks @johnnettles2), along with some other stuff I'm not very familiar with - threadless fork etc. Currently using a -10 degree stem but will be cutting the steerer down further after doing some miles on it and will probably move to a -17. Excuse the trainer tyre and the indoor photos - it's cold and nasty out.
Carbon steerer bungs are a pain in the arse, particularly now you can't get anything longer than about 40mm. Ended up fitting two after filing the lip of the first and sliding it a couple of inches into the steerer to allow me to move the stem down to find the best position without clamping the stem where the steerer is unsupported (probably worrying about nothing). Prime alloy aero bars are much better made than the Profile AeroA ones and much easier to cable (bigger ports without sharp edges).
What's going on with that stem? Surely the fork is threaded and a quill stem would've been standard on that frame?
Looks like a 1" threadless fork to me. Common to see on older bikes, before 1 1/8" became the standard.
I mean it seems odd as I have that exact frame and fork, and it has a quill stem.
You’re right - the original fork is a threaded steerer unicrown type, but the paint is very poor, it has very limited tyre clearance, and is very heavy. I wanted to try a carbon fork and its just been finished to (sort of) match. The carbon fork is 1” threadless hence the ugly Thomson stem and a shim - it was just what I had and it will be replaced by a chromo one in due course. Another inch or so to come off the steerer too. No puppies were harmed etc.!
That Sancineto is fantastic.
So Olmo now finished. Not really happy with the bar tape, really wanted a golden yellow to try to match the frame not the 'neon' yellow (which actually looks green) - maybe the 'oilslick' tape would have been better. Sod of a job to get the seatpost fitted, needed about an hour with some emery on a stick cleaning out the seat tube but probably better than reaming out to 27.2mm. The R8000 FD doesn't seem to play perfectly with the R9000 shifters but only with the trim positions and maybe because I haven't got it set quite right. After setting up 3 bikes with R7000/R8000 FD I only just realised that the tail end of the shift wire is supposed to loop back through the little plastic trim piece (RTFM).
Needs white tape and white saddle
Yeah maybe - white not very practical for me though, would all be filthy after a couple of rides :(
Depends on what type of tape you get. The more synthetic stuff (Lizard Skin, Fizik) is really easy to clean.
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