Kona Lana’i, Kona Cinder Cone, 26ers

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  • Recently got hold of this frame (seller’s photo):
    19” Kona Lana’i 2003

    First order of business is to remove the crank bolt which seems to have an inch and not mm standard head.

    Second order of business is to find a suitable fork, preferably rigid. I found the geo chart, and would very much appreciate some input on what rake and A-C I should be looking for.

    Plan is a slow and steady build with the usual 1x9 or 1x10 drivetrain and perhaps some MX style bars - will be a very tight budget build though so we’ll see.

    Excited about once again owning a Kona!


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  • I’m an idiot: fork rake is in the geo chart - 38 mm

  • Might I suggest a new paint job to go with it?

  • To be honest I think the paint job is what gives it character. A re-paint would make it look like any other cheap aluminium frame.

    Progress:
    Thanks to @Tijmen I should have a P2 fork on its way in soon - now to try and gather everything else :)

  • I had a similar vintage explosif that I ran with 80 mm fox suspension and an avid cable disk upfront , which made it super usable . Get some older p2 forks if you want to go rigid , but check the ac as they come in two different lengths , the older ones are nicer steel if I remember but are shorter and v brake only ..

  • Bottom Bracket Blues
    Managed to get the non drive side out - drive side is supposed to loosen clockwise, right? Seems completely stuck to me.

    I hope that me sacrificing my thumb between wrench and rubber mallet will lead to a divine intervention and the cartridge will vanish overnight.


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  • An injured thumbs up is one of the most contradictory images I've seen. Liberal penetrating fluid sprayed into the shell soaking down onto the stubborn cup has worked well in the past. Also holding the BB tool in a vice and turning the frame, but steady as you go. Good luck!

  • More leverage will probably do it. I inherited a full bike last year but the model was circa 2006 with an unknown age BB in it. It was rideable but when the BB needed replacing it took far more leverage than a normal socket set could apply. However a long lead pipe left over from a kitchen extension slid over the socket set wrench and did the job

    https://www.instagram.com/p/B6vaQqnpG7T/­

  • Lana’i bottom bracket cup has stayed put, despite my best efforts.
    But, as the old saying goes, when you can’t beat them, purchase your way out of it.

    Bought another Kona (2000 Cinder Cone) to see if I can’t get something going right...
    From what I can tell, this has two replacements from original spec (which can be seen here: http://www.classickona.com/oldgold/2k/2k­_xch_cin.htm)

    1. Rear wheel is swapped
    2. Fork is swapped for a (2004?) Manitou Axel, spring suspension fork

    Test ride through the local woods makes me think the fork is really soft (although my experience with front sus is limited), and the original tires need to be swapped (no kidding).

    I have On-One Mike bars and a few shorter stems incoming, and will update with own pics once cockpit is swapped.

    Seller’s pic attached.


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  • Have you tried using a long M8 Bolt to hold the BB tool in place and then use a vice?? Thats worked most the time for me.

  • I'm with @jambon, spray plenty of pf in the bb shell from the open end, leave overnight, go back to it next day, stay calm, keep your digits out of the way, and have another go.

  • Thanks everyone for tips on BB removal.
    I have watched a few videos as well, and I just lack the right gear to change approach from clamping the tool (using a carpenter’s clamp), and hammering on a wrench with a rubber mallet.
    As I’m in no hurry now (as if I ever was) I’m gonna wait for the right steel pipe to come across my path. I have faith that Leverage will return some day.

    Anyhow: What tyres should I go for on the Cinder Cone? Thinking Race King rear, Mountain King front? Perhaps a Rocket Ron/Nobby Nic combo?

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Kona Lana’i, Kona Cinder Cone, 26ers

Posted by Avatar for Larmen @Larmen

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