616 Fabrication Muenzie Fat Bike

Posted on
of 4
/ 4
Last Next
  • Over the last couple of years I have steadily been increasing my off road tire size.

    My first off road bike was an Alan aluminium cantilever cx bike. The Alan was superseded by several steel cx bikes (Colnago, Diamant, Gazelle) until I finally bought my first all road disc bike: a Kona Rove. I reverted back to cantilevers for a short period of time with a Kona Jake, until I finally caught up with the gravel craze with a Lynskey Pro Cross. This was replaced last year by my first ever mountain bike, a Canyon Dude fat bike. The fat bike hype seems to have died down, which makes fat bikes pretty affordable nowadays.

    The previous owner had already fitted an XTR 9000 groupset to the bike, so not much room to upgrade there. The only real place to change something for the better was in the wheel deparment. Although very realiable and, the DT Swiss Big Rides are notoriously difficult to convert to tubeless and also quite porky.

    After looking all over the internet, I finally found a lovely set of a Tune fat bike hubs laced to insanely light Kurushiro Enso 685 rims. Although by far the most expensive wheelset I have ever owned, I somehow convinsed myself that it was a good investment. It came equipped with an XD driver freehub, so I also went ahead and got a SRAM XO1 groupset to replace the XTR groupset.

    So far so good... until I came across an Ebay auction for the frame below yesterday. And somehow placed the winning bid.

    Not sure yet how I am going to forward from here just yet. The wheels are just too nice to let go, but to be able to fit them to the new frame would mean a new (expensive) qr hubset. Luckely I haven't gotten round to fitting the XO grouspet to the Dude.

  • Sick paint!
    Aren't fancy parts like XTR and Tune hubs a bit overkill on a slow and heavy fatbike?

  • Oh man this is gonna be sweet!
    Whatever happened to all those CX bikes btw? Got any left you’d like to shift?

  • I think it is a common misconception that fat bikes are slow. With Jumbo Jim's 4.0 tires fitted I could easily keep up with most XC bikes on dry and gravel courses. I am currently rolling Maxxis DHR/DHF 4.8 tires. I raced on those last week on a super muddy course and I was able to overtake pretty much everyone in tight turns. So slow, maybe on tarmac, but otherwise definitely no.

    Concerning weight of the Dude. Stock weight is approx 12 kg with an XT groupset. With the current parts and the Tune wheelset I could have easily gotten under 10 kg, which I think is pretty light for an all rounder. That said, I am sure with the frame will be quite a bit heavier than the Dude.

  • This is rad, good work

  • Just got some background information from the seller about the frame.

    "The frame is a story of heartbreak. This was my dreambike that turned out to be too big. Yes, I'm the original owner and this is the first frame built in 2019. It is the first to use internal cable routing. John asked what color wanted, I said "1970's corvette green". John told his painter friend Mike to make it special. The paint job is one of a kind. John also hand built the fork because surly forks are so heavy."

  • I don't have any left I'm afraid. They have either been sold, donated to friends or stolen.

  • Just got a quote from R2-bike on the wheel rebuild with the right hubs from Tune. They built the wheels the first time around, so I thought it will be a good place to start.

    The quote was EUR 700. The hubs themselves cost around EUR 450 on the R2-bike website without the rear QR conversion kit. So I guess they charge approx EUR 200-250 for building the wheels including spokes and nipples (not sure what kind though).

    I bought the wheels for 1100. Assuming I can sell the hubs for around 250 and including the cost of the wheelbuilding, I would end up with a set of wheels for approx 1550. Not sure yet I am willing to spend that kind of money on just the wheels.

    2 Attachments

    • Tune1.jpg
    • Tune2.jpg
  • So I guess they charge approx EUR 200-250 for building the wheels including spokes and nipples (not sure what kind though).

    Is this just accepted a kosher price for wheel building these days?

    Last time I worked in a bike shop I think the labour on a wheelbuild was like, £40!

  • Can you not convert the hubs?
    What axle sizes do the hubs take?
    If you can not change the hub endcaps, there is another option:

    Find, make, or have someone make you axles that fit the hubs, but have ends that fit the frame plus 5mm hole through for the QR skewers.

  • The last time I had some wheels built, the price was a lot lower, but that was some years back. I just checked with another builder and he quote almost the exact same price. I guess this is what wheel building costs nowadays.

  • Unfortunately this won't work here. The frame takes some pretty outdated hub sizes (135/170). The hub shell of modern hubs is quite a bit wider: 150 up front and in most cases 190 out back. Too wide to make a conversion possible.

  • Can you not sell the wheels you have and then build new ones for this? Might work out cheaper?

  • Having new heavier wheels built will probably costs roughly the same as the cost of the rebuilt. So that is definitely an option. I had hoped to find some second hands ones at a good price, but so far all my searches have come up with nothing.

    I did manage to find some other parts. A Darimo T1 seatpost, a Mcfk handlebar and a Miranda infinium crankset. Although the cranks are quite heavy, I think they look nice and I like the idea of having a ti chainring. If anything they will do fine until I can find something nicer.

  • you sure this wouldn't work

    Front -
    Tune Fat King Front Hub Conversion Kit - QR5

    Rear -
    Tune Fat Kong 170/177mm Rear Hub Conversion Kit - QR 10x170mm

  • These conversion kits convert 135/142 to 135/142 qr and 170 to qr. The problem is I have the 150mm and 190mm hubs, so that won't work.

  • I've posted this a few times before but if you delace, measure the hubs and rims, order some spokes and relace it's only a couple of hours work and you'll only have to pay £5-£20 to have them tensioned and trued by a shop. Worthwhile skill and you'll save £100-200 based on those prices above

  • ah misunderstood.

  • Just came across this while trying to find more info on the geometry. This was actually what I wanted to do with the frame at first but it didn't seem to make much sense combining fat tires with a drop bar. But now I've seen this...

    1 Attachment

    • Events-6612-e1441823501451.jpg
  • Looks like fun!

  • Looks like terrifying!

  • Terrifying for anyone in its way.

    Looks huge.

  • After going back and forth on different options for the wheels - rebuilding the Kurushiro Enso rims, finding a nice second hand set of wheels, going 27,5 inch - I settled on last option. From what I have read, 27.5 rims with 3.0 tires have almost the same diameter as 26 inch fat bike tires. Also, with wide enough rims you can still fit 4 inch fat bike tires. The latter will have a slightly larger diameter than the 26, so fingers crossed this will fit.

    I bought a set of second hand rims that came from a Tune Blackburner Enduro wheelset. Inner width is 42mm and weight is just shy of 500 grams.

    For the hubs I am considering buying a pair of White Industries Snowhite hubs. I found a store that has these in stock in the polished edition. They can sell it to me with a handsome discout, but even so they are about the same price as Hope Fatsno hubs. Unlike the Hope hubs though, no XD driver option available and no way of ever upgrading to thru axle. They do look nice though.

    2 Attachments

    • s-l1600 (1).jpg
    • DSC01700.jpg
  • That green frame is very pretty!

    If you fancy a drop bar fat, have a look at @substandard8 on Insta. Rides a drop bar Ti fat smokestone. Think he has got the weight of it down to 10kgs. Proper quick as well. Finished 4th Gbduro this year.

    A fat 4" tyre will be pretty squirmy on 42mm internal rims. Bit too narrow imo.

    I would still go Hope over WI hubs. Not as pretty, but available adaptors mean much more versatile across different Fat standards.

  • Nice to hear someone is racing fat tires at a high level in non-snow conditions. In my experience a fat bike can be really fast in the right conditions, but most people seem to assume fat bikes a just fun to ride outside the snow.

    According to this review the tires should work with the narrow rims. I might need to put in some extra psi though to prevent squirm. https://fat-bike.com/2017/11/fat-bike-ti­res-on-plus-bike-rims/

  • Post a reply
    • Bold
    • Italics
    • Link
    • Image
    • List
    • Quote
    • code
    • Preview

616 Fabrication Muenzie Fat Bike

Posted by Avatar for Fatbiker @Fatbiker