Chain Waxing

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  • What about cassette/chainrings, have you had to replace either of those?

  • I know! Thought that this morning. I’ll measure the chain later with a steel rule to make sure.

  • Not yet, they look fine and neither were new when I started this chain. That would be the clue that the chain-checker isn’t accurate.

  • OK, that’s enough fun for now. 0.75 chain checker still not dropping in, but measures 1/16 over on a steel rule. Sheldon says that is time to change chain before sprockets become worn.

    let's look at how to do this with a ruler that measures in inches.

    • If the link pin is less than 1/16" past the mark, all is well.
    • If the link pin is 1/16" past the mark, you should replace the chain, but the sprockets are probably undamaged.
    • If the link pin is 1/8" past the mark, you have left it too long, and the sprockets (at least the favorite ones) will be too badly worn.
      If you replace a chain at the 1/8" point, without replacing the
      sprockets, it may run OK and not skip, but the worn sprockets will
      cause the new chain to wear much faster than it should, until it
      catches up with the wear state of the sprockets.
    • If the link pin is past the 1/8" mark, a new chain will almost certainly skip on the worn sprockets, especially the smaller ones.­html

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  • My brain hurts, what's 0.75% compared to 1/16th of an inch?

    My checker had .75 and .5 on it I think, not 1.0. Is that an older one?

    I've got one of those lever ones too but I can't find either of them so I've just been using a steel rule.

    There's also a CC-4 checker which has 3 engagement points:­hecker-cc-4­p/when-to-replace-a-chain-on-a-bicycle

  • Yeah, I should get a 0.5 checker as I’m mostly on 11s now. I’m guessing that the 0.5 would be dropping in at this point, so it’s time to change.

  • I vaguely recall buying a new one. So I probably have one like yours back in Oz for all the 10spd stuff there. I definitely had a flat 0,5 and 0,75 checker here as well as one of those funky blue ones and I can't find either ffs. I just checked my waxed gravel bike chain and it looks pristine, which is odd as it was treated pretty poorly. Waxing probably help not retain grit.

  • Yeah, I should get a 0.5 checker as I’m mostly on 11s now. I’m guessing that the 0.5 would be dropping in at this point, so it’s time to change.

    In addition to the longer Park Tool CC-4 version, Pedro's Chain Checker Plus II is an excellent 3-point chain checker (and portable enough to carry on a long tour). It also works with esoteric 12-speed chains like the SRAM Eagle, which are incorrectly read with traditional 2-point checkers.

  • Maybe a silly question, but on the topic of chain checkers, I notice that some namely the CC-4 mention what speeds it’s compatible with. Now for a single speed chin would I need a specific checker?

  • "For two-sprocket or single speed bikes, replace your chain as it reaches the 1 percent wear mark." from Park Tools link above. So you could use one of the older ones that has 1.0 on it

  • Well I clearly missed that part! Cheers

  • I have a slightly different method because most of my singlespeeds are beaters and that is to leave everything exactly as it is until all parts are toast, bin, repeat.

  • Yeah that makes sense, not that I’ve noticed much wear after a year of commuting, though I do try wipe down my chain at least once a week so it stays prey clean.

  • I have a slightly different method because...

    You can use expert opinion rather than idleness as a reason.

    The allowable safe chain wear is considered to be in the order of 2% elongation over nominal length.

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Chain Waxing

Posted by Avatar for hippy @hippy