yeah probably best bet to ask them here, though i'm always up for a framebuilding themed lfgss pub visit if people are keen!
What did you go for in the end? I'm about to do my first fork and thinking the same thing. The tolerances aren't as tight as the book suggests they should be.
Really stoked on the jig I've made. Slightly ambitious and going for thru axle but i think this will keep everything solid.
Jig looks good.
I’ve done a steerer replacement with brass and I’ve put legs I took out of a 1” crown/steerer into a new 1 1/8” crown with silver. I haven’t ridden either yet but I think I feel better about how the silver flowed in. Made me feel like it’d be a better joint. By the time I got everything hot enough for the brass to flow I felt like I was cooking the flux.
Okay sweet, that is good to know. I might try some 40% silver I have as something of a compromise.
Last night I discovered that the argon hoses on TIG torches aren't heatproof.
Anyone ever bonded a shim into a seattube?
I'm repairing a crash damaged Orange P7 which has a 29.8mm seattube and (I think) came with a shim to take it down to 27.2mm to allow a wider range of posts to fit.
I think the seattubes are heavy enough to be used without the shim (a colleague has one that he uses with a 29.8mm Thomson post) but given that I need to braze a new toptube and chainstay wishbone to it I suspect the seattube may end up a little bit off round so retaining the shim would seem to be a good idea.
However, I will want to run a qr seatclamp to lift and lower the seat to suit the terrain and I don't want the shim coming out with the post (I can work a qr clamp and lift the post with my thighs without getting off the bike) so I'm thinking I should maybe glue the shim in but I don't know what glue to use.
Gorilla glue expands as it cures so that's clearly no use, I don't know what other glues expand as they cure. Something that wasn't a ridiculously strong bond might be a good idea too, just incase I should ever want to remove it down the line.
The frame came to me with a shimmed and well worn 27.2 post that slid in and out alright while leaving the shim in the frame but I removed the shim before starting the repairs and I think the reason it was staying in the frame was that there was a bit of rust holding it in place. I'd like something a bit more reliable/predictable than rust!
I cut it down flush with the lug afterwards of course. I used JB Weld, but if you might want to remove it in the future JB Weld might be a bit excessive. I've used it in the past for repairing an engine block, and it really doesn't give up without a fight. Brompton seat post shims are held in place by rubberised superglue like Gorilla Superglue so you could try that.
Yeah when I googled it jb weld seemed a common recommendation but i was thinking it’d be a bit permanent.
Rubberised superglue sounds good.
Does anyone know the name of the framebuilding supplies place in germany?
Something something racing I think?
Spot on man, cheers.
Its the greatest service I've experienced so far (regarding frame building-components...)
Damn, this TIG-thing is Hard! So much fun tho and so much to learn!
Those are the very first try’s at it. (the better ones of course...)
Learnt that its not wise to sharpen both sides of a tungsten and fuck both sides up, haha
RTECH-Welder with a normal torch, no Pedal etc. I‘ll switch to that soon tho.
Good to know, not that I’m unhappy with Peter’s service of course.
You in the uk?
nice one, looks solid! Keep up the practice it'll come. Pedal will help a lot for sure
Also rate Reset-racing. Super fast (I'm in NL)
I'm based in Germany.
The service is great, delivery super fast. Proper packaging. Can only recommend!
I can'r remember if this is the place where I've been rabbiting on about my TIG course but I completed my last piece for level 1 today. I'd been putting off feeding the wire 'properly', just letting it run down to a stub then stoping my bead and pulling the wire through before restarting.
I got it in my head that trying to learn wire feeding would interfere with me doing my test joints well. But I managed to get the hang of wire feeding within about two minutes and it makes welding so much easier!
Awesome! yeah i found the same. I put it off for ages, then started practising in front of the telly, and now i can do it decently. Tbh i don't use it that much frame building because most of the runs are short, but on bigger stuff its so handy.
yeah i bet you do like four passes on a bike tube! level 2 will have my first round object to weld: a pipe to a plate.
yeah i tend to do 4 maybe even more sometimes, i think its good to move around a lot, keeps the heat down and if your smart about it you can bring the frame in and out of true with different passes. Ive only really mastered bringing it out of true so far...
Where are you doing your course? It sounds good.
Where are you doing your course? It sounds good.
Burnley College. It's standard City and Guilds level 1. 3 hours a week on a Monday night and it's pretty much been hands on since day 1.
Any of you oxy/propane brazers tried these multi-jet nozzles?
I saw them mentioned on another forum, maybe STW(?) so I picked up a 3 and a 5 plus you need a new neck to screw them onto.
Pretty impressed with them, they seem to pump a lot more heat into the workpiece and keep that heat more focused.
Feel a bit closer to oxy/acet to work with.
I felt the std nozzle was too slow heating things up so by the time I had the metal at wetting temp temp, I'd toasted my flux, Doesn't seem to happen so much with these mulit-jet tips.
Flame seems a lot more stable, the propane lights easier and the flame doesn't pull away from the tip if I've got it on a bit too much like it would with the standard nozzle and I've not had the mulitjet tip extinguish by accident at all.
Think I've seen them described on a This Old Tony video.
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