• Cinelli Mash Parallax with Sugino DD75.
    The clearance between chainstay and crank spider is awfully too close, it's less than 1mm, should I worry?

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  • hashtag aero

  • way too aero though

  • if thats the chainring bolts, i'd just give them a quick filing just to give you more clearance.

  • @user71349 yeah, that's the chainring bolt boss. Even if I file all of them, clearance will still be around 1mm, which is awfully too small.

  • Spacer behind the RH end of the cassette (cup if old-school) and bb shell

  • @HarmanMogul from what I understand, spacers are not recommended. In fact, the only spacer that comes with the cranks is a tiny one for the LH to avoid the crank arm rubbing against the BB (that also comes with a warning «use only if strictly necessary»)

  • another picture where it looks even more dramatic

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  • Yeah that's going to fuck the chainstay. Can you space the BB?

  • @Sumo is that a good thing to do though? What spacers would I need? See my comment above about the spacers that come with the crankset.

  • The risk is it that by using spacers you won't have enough threads engaged and the cranks get damaged/fall off.
    Your options are:

    • Space the drive out out slightly (not recommended)
    • Crimp the chainstay (not recommended)
    • Get different cranks, maybe ones that have a square taper bb (expensive).
  • Thanks @Sumo. I wonder if anyone from the forum has had the same experience with the Mash Parallax and ended up fitting. I am ok with buy different cranks, but I can't try all possible combinations until one fits well :/
    I was wondering how large in terms of clearane is the Dura Ace 7710.

  • I had this issue with the v1 mash works, with Sugino DDs, ended up using square taper bb as per @Sumo

  • @HousecatHST on my v1 mash work, the chainring was hitting on the chainstay as well with the omnium, ended up going square taper myself. What crankset did you use?

  • Option 1:You can use a spacer on the Drive side BB cup but you would have to face off the same amount of the BB shell on the non-drive side to maintain correct bearing pre-load.

    Option 2: Dent the chainstay

    Option 3: Get a square taper BB/Crankset

  • If the frame is old, just ding the chainstay. Or get someone else to do it if you're squeamish! Not on a new frame however.

  • It's a new frame :/
    About option 3, will Sugino 75 (not DD) work? Anyone willing to swap? :D I am half-serious.
    I see that that square taper BB that comes with Sug 75 is 109mm long. How do I know that's going to be enough? Will that be compatible with, say, Shimano BB-UN that are longer, like 113?


  • You keep asking about crankset, but any crankset that uses a square taper BB can be made to work, as square taper BBs have different axle widths.

    You could swap your sugino 75 DDs for normal 75s that run a square taper, then make sure the BB you buy is wide enough.

    EDIT - Seen your response. You can use any width BB. Thats why everyone is recommending them :/

  • indeed :/ just a minute ago I asked if anyone is willing to swap :))

  • The back of the crank bolt is meant to settle inside. That's why they are knurled. You gotta tighten them.

  • Duke, you're a legend. I mean, I knew that already, but now.. a superlegend. I owe you a couple of pints.

    Thanks everyone, drama is over, Duke is a superlegend, life is good again.

  • I ended with some campag record pista, the clearance is still tight, but never had any problems.

  • New clearance after stuffing those bosses into the crank (@ekudduke's comment).
    Much better, right?

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Very tiny clearance between crank spider and chainstay.

Posted by Avatar for steelest @steelest