Inbred with custom bits

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  • Have been building up this bike for the past 2 years or so, its one of those projects where you randomly bid on a ~70£ frame on ebay and win, then later on you understand that the frame was the cheapest part of the build. But no regrets, its the most fun bike i have owned.

    The current setup:
    frame on-one inbred 29 - came with matching seatpost, forks surly ogre 29, xt 2x crankset, deore hydraulic brakes, jones loop bar(soo comfy on a rigid fork) , dtswiss rims with shwable thunderburt in the rear and rocket ron at the front, hope headset. Gearing is a working mess - poor mans 11 speed - running a 10 speed sram gx rear derailleur with a 11 speed sram s-700 trigger shifter (thats used on fitness bikes), shimano slx 11-40t cassette, used to run on a cheap aliexpress hanger adapter, but had problems getting on the largest cog, so asked a friend to weld on a derailleur hanger and since then it works like a charm. The front derailleur and shifter is shimano.

    Oh yeah and there is a small custom rack at the front kudos @togas for the custom work on the frame

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  • Some photos of the early build.
    At fist i tried to run it as a single speed, but soon realized that one gear in the woods is not for me spinning on the flats, mashing on the hills. Its a ok for short rides, but gets quite tiring on long days.

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  • The horizontal dropouts saved me from walking home after a random stick had its way with my derailleur. And would not recommend those cheap Chinese bb7's from ebay, as mine snapped in half after first ride.

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  • Don't have that nice bikepacking gear? no problem - zip tie a plastic fruit basket at the front, and make some diy anything cages from plastic pipe. Add some celebratory champagne and ducttape and you are ready for anythig.

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  • That looks great! That caliper, just crazy.

  • On a later trip, had abit less gheto setup, but still in the diy spirit - made a frame bag from tyvek, also made a simple big bag for the fruit basket - also from tyvek, too keep stuff from flying all over the place after you hit a rougher section. Borrowed a saddle bag - worked okay (hated the saddle bag as it kept swaying into my legs), but needed the extra space as the trip was longer.

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  • proper diy, subbed

  • Some upgrades in progress to help with winter riding
    trying out a 650b+ in the front, sadly theres not enough clearance in the back
    also a son hub with a supernova lamp to light the way

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  • Lovely stuff.

  • Good stuff! subbed

  • Oh yes, racks finally finished!
    Powder coated black, integrated lighting cables, attached lights. Thanks again to @togas for all the custom work. The front looks kinda off with nothing on it - the light sticks out like sore thumb, but got a cheap ikea basket that fits in there nicely.

    The wiring was quite a pain to do, but i am quite pleased with the results, even made a switch, as the supernova pure does not have one, but the tricky part was where to place it? ended up putting it behind the front rack in the hole on the axle crown, as the switch diameter was almost identical and seems to work fine.

    Also went out for a ride ride this weekend and the plus tyre sure is nice on this amount of snow.

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  • Rad!

  • So good!

  • Hi. I'm interested in how you attached the contacts to the fork dropouts. Did you drill 3 holes for the insulating plate and stick it on somehow? I have the same wheel which I would like to use, but until seeing this I haven't found a way to get it to work without a custom fork etc.

  • Hey, didnt make much photos of the process, but ill try to describe.
    As i am using a steel fork, so it was quite easy - filed away the paint off the dropout for the negative side so the ground goes through the whole fork and you can attach the lamps negative wire anywhere on the fork as long as it connects to the metal.

    The positive side was a bit more complicated, had to buy a kit (­chmidt-sl-contact-parts-kit-with-forward­-cable-exit/), and then made a template from cardboard for the 3 holes, drilled them out ant then the kit attaches in the holes, and friction holds it in. Then routed the wire tough the small drain hole near the dropout and it exits at the crown.

    Was worried that the extra width of the connector would make changing the wheel quite challenging, as i would need to spread the fork legs apart, but it just slides in whitout any need for that. If you are using a carbon fork, that would make it more complicated, as you would need another connector for the negative side.

    It's quite alot of work for a dynamo setup, but now im quite pleased that i dont need to disconnect any wires while changing the wheel, its winter time here and trying to fiddle with some wires with cold fingers is not the most pleasant experience.

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  • Thanks for the detailed response. Really useful!

  • No probs, good luck with your build!

  • hey - love the bike
    what's the clearance like for 650b in the back of these frames? reckon a 2.6 would fit? 2.8? ta

  • Hey, sorry for the late response have not checked this thread for a while. Theres not a lot of clearance at the back, would have wanted to use a plus 650b rear tyre as well, but the chain stays are quite bent and the dimples are designed for a 29er tyre, managed to use a 29x2.4 maxxis ardent whitout any rubbing issues, but it was on the edge. Maybe a 2.6 650b would fit, but it would be real close.

  • Do you find the fore-aft movement of certain calipers is limited by the frame? I have Maguras on mine and the calipers can't be pulled back far enough when I change to a smaller gear, making braking a bit shitter than normal. What calipers are these? Shimano something

  • Use a bigger rotor?

  • A little update on the build, as this year i have been riding more local trails than camping, so it kinda migrated to more xc oriented setup.

    A Surly cheater bar and a 100mm manitou markhor at the front. Its gotten more trail capable, but its too responsive for my linking - it has a 72 degree head angle, i guess that makes it more nervous on the descents. Also drilled and riveted extra bottle cage mounts on the seat tube and downtube, drilling the placing of one of the holes was quite awkward though.

    In the future planning to covert it back to bike packing mode, as i liked it more with a rigid front and a jones bar. But before that i need something thats abit more capable on the trails, but thats a new project :)

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  • A few snap shots of whats coming up :>

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  • Really happy to read that you found it a bit response. Been riding mine fully rigid on trails, but have decided to build up something with slacker head angle and way more front bounce than go for a suspension for on mine!

    Still yours looks great in bike packing mode.

  • I have been using 160 rotors at the back, had no issues with clearance yet, but i have been running them slammed all the way back. These rotors are some generic avids, that came with china bb7's.

    But i have the same issue as you, on a different bike, just on the front, i just added a few washers until it stopped rubbing, tightened the caliper bolts more than usual, seems to work fine. Im a master of dodgy setups. Hope thats helps.

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Inbred with custom bits

Posted by Avatar for Toum @Toum