That really is a small amount of bolt engagement
Looks like (currently) I’m engaging a mighty 4mm of an M6 bolt at (in theory) 13Nm. I’ve not been brave enough to go there.
I think a longer bolt would engage the thread that is left untouched in the rocker- thread that has never been used until I threaded the bolt into it today.
I’d prefer the hole not be blind so the bolt could be 10mm longer and not risk bottoming out.
Some may recall that Pace fitted this linkage guard:
I’ve had a go at turning that into a sketch that I’m having printed from a rubber like material.
Good job on this, my new Ibis had a rigid'ish type of plastic guard for the DW link and fell off (held on with a tiny bit of adhesive tape) within I think 2 rides? Took an existing design from thingyverse and printed in ABS (very rigid) and been fine, though do fancy trying a flexible print.
On the shock front, read a bit of problems you were having, saw you did plenty of maths before going to coil. Personally haven't used a coil rear shock since about 2010 (an old Scott DH rig) had a few different DVO/Fox big can jobs and been happy enough. Got the new Ibis Ripmo over winter with the factory X2 on it (big can version), fecking love it. Have to mildy change the tune through the year vs temp changes, but just works brilliantly on that frame.
I tend to only spec fork/shock that have high and low speed compression adjustment, run the fork about spot on not too blowy, but will usually run the rear HSC wide open unless I'm on an all day 10-14 hour trail/backcountry/peat bog nightmare type of a day. Doesn't hang on anything, occasionally hit full travel a few times per ride.
I think the 2021/22 versions of the factory X2 have 'vvc' valving, not sure on the exact intricacies of it but does the job nice on a wild variety of terrain without having to fiddle with it multiple times per ride.
Used to use Cane creek double barrel donkies back on a turner 5 spot and a 6 pack, everyone else specced them with the coil shock of the day (2006-8) chasing minute improvements in small bump response (never that great has they had quite chunky solid plastic bushs with zerk grease ports on, that one ever topped up the grease with lol).
With Helicoil, or relying on the remaining thread alone?
Turns out there was loads of pristine thread- but the OEM bolt was just too short to engage it. Got a longer bolt, cut it down so it didn’t bottom out, bosh.
how is the alcohol free guinness?
It's in the fridge, will be ready for testing tomorrow - I'm quite excited, but also prepared for disappointment.
Have you a photo of the guard on your Ibis? I could do with something similar.
What in earth did you use to cut the bolt down?
Last time I did it-
Thread a nut on to the length you need.
Thread another nut on leaving enough gap for a junior hacksaw.
Cut using the nuts as a guide,
Theread off the nut on the side you need, which will neaten up the end.
Deburr the thread using a triangular file following the thread.
Came out straight, didn't cross thread.
I prefer to shorten my bolts on my lathe
You just need three revolutions of thread engagement. An ISO M6 has a pitch of 1.0mm so in reality 3mm engagement should be enough.
So I've been told... Obviously it wasn't :)
Also nice to thread the nut further up the thread once it's cut and add a chamfer before backing the nut off.
Need to find space in my bedroom for a lathe somehow 🤔
I had no nuts, I had a Dremel with a cut-off wheel. It may be ugly but it works.
Colour is close, but not quite a match- hopefully the distance between the callipers and the bars will serve to mask this.
And this arrived, text is worn off but I think it’s a 585lb spring, so I’ll need a lighter one (I’m 80kg in my boxers).
Not 585- it’s 525. Might be close enough?
Now paint the frame the same colour!
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