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• #4702
I'm not sure, I'll ask more details later. I did wonder what he meant, as you would need the lever end closed to do this, right?
Yup, basically to both pressurised the system as well as forcing bubble out, I don't recall Magura needing to do that, as both end are open (empty syringe acting like a cup on the levers like a Shimano one) and just need to push and pull from the calipers, not too dissimilar to Shimano.
...but scared of having the same issues as Neil.
If your name is Neil, you should be.
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• #4703
I'm not sure, I'll ask more details later. I did wonder what he meant, as you would need the lever end closed to do this, right?
- Pushing and pulling the fluid from the calliper is how the Magura manual specifies that you bleed the brakes, sounds like what your chap is doing is pulling the brake lever to the bar to seal the high-pressure side of the system at the lever, then pulling a vacuum on the calliper by pulling the plunger of the syringe which is in the calliper bleed port.
I'm already having second thoughts on the trade though. I was tempted to buy Neil's other set of mt7's and a direct swap is tempting but scared of having the same issues as Neil.
My thinking on this is that it's an installation error compounded by the brakes being a bit annoying to bleed. I have two bikes with Magura brakes, so four separate systems if you see what I mean, and only one of them goes wrong, and has been going wrong through two entirely separate lever/hose/calliper assembles, which suggests that it's something to do with how the brake works with the back of that bike.
- Pushing and pulling the fluid from the calliper is how the Magura manual specifies that you bleed the brakes, sounds like what your chap is doing is pulling the brake lever to the bar to seal the high-pressure side of the system at the lever, then pulling a vacuum on the calliper by pulling the plunger of the syringe which is in the calliper bleed port.
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• #4704
Do banjos on disc brakes not have a copper crush / sealing washed either side under the bolt head and banjo to caliper interface?
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• #4705
Cars, yes. Bikes, normally no. There's only so much pressure you can generate with fingers as opposed to a leg.
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• #4706
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• #4707
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• #4708
So far I have successfully resisted putting white Onza Porcupines on my 295.
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• #4709
Pace should have made a square seatpost
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• #4710
In other news I swapped the 30mm rise Renthal bars on the 295 for some 10mm rise ones as (having spent the last two weeks riding the 529) I found the front end of the 295 felt really high.
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• #4711
Probably best to replace them anyway, as they'd been on the bike for nearly a month...
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• #4712
I’ll keep them, might put them back on if going somewhere gravity oriented- or put them on the next bike.
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• #4713
Spare parts pile is growing. I'm reminded of when I bought a bottle of cable ends and thought "I will never use all of these before I die", although I'd note I've almost used them all now.
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• #4714
might put them back on if going somewhere gravity oriented- or put them on the next bike
You're getting an enduro bike next, aren't you
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• #4715
Which one?
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• #4716
Geometron?
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• #4717
You will have two garages soon...
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• #4718
so long it needs two garages :P ?
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• #4719
Ha, maybe three, to be on the safe side
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• #4720
Someone else is at the end of their tether too -https://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=230584
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• #4721
I put a new battery in the Shock Wiz.
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• #4722
Backed the LSC off to fully open, I can’t adjust HSC on my shock. Made it somewhat better but I need to spend a lot more time doing runs and then making small adjustments.
I also switched to a Minion SS rear tyre, keeping the DHR II front, and fitted bars with 20mm less rise- and enjoying both of these changes.
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• #4723
About a month ago I had a coaching session with an instructor in the Surrey Hills, he pointed out that I was rubbish at going around corners because I kept the bike too upright, and I was too high on the bike- arms and legs too straight to be able to move the bike around underneath me.
What I had to do was to bend my arms and legs, get my weight down and backward a bit, and really tip the bike in.
It's finally starting to gel somewhat - twisting my hips a little to allow my inside leg to move away from the bike in order to make a space for the top tube to go as the bike leans over is now starting to move from "have to think about this" to "doing this automatically", but not quite there yet.
What I've not been able to grok successfully is pressing down through each turn in a way very similar to turning when skiing - the idea being to generate grip through each turn.
Anyone got any tips on how to make this make sense to my lizard brain?
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• #4724
It's the same action as pumping
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• #4725
Yes, but much slower. That doesn't help me to remember to do it, though.
edscoble
Dammit
mcmyk
Brommers
BareNecessities
danb
TooTallTim
Dogs
I'm not sure, I'll ask more details later. I did wonder what he meant, as you would need the lever end closed to do this, right?
I'm already having second thoughts on the trade though. I was tempted to buy Neil's other set of mt7's and a direct swap is tempting but scared of having the same issues as Neil.