This has come up a few times before but not in the last couple of years so, where can I get my tubes reamed??
I got a tapered headtube from Ceeway which needs the lower cup reaming out. It's 1.5" tapered integrated, it's got a 45 degree chamfer, and at the moment it's about 51mm internal dia. I want it reamed out to 52mm to fit your standard 52mm bearing. I have an Enduro one with 52mm outside dia.
I have talked to a few local shops, annoyingly two of them said they could do it after lengthy conversations on the phone only to turn me away when I actually got there.
Here's a pic of the headtube. I'm located in Brixton, local would be best if poss.
Just a couple of comments here, one millimeter is too much to remove with a fixed reamer, it is possible with an adjustable reamer . This would take a long time due to the many small cuts needed and is not a particularly neat solution. An adjustable reamer of this size is a significant cost, think somewhere between £300 and £1,000 depending on type of blades and quality.
hmm. I've probably measured it wrong then or it's designed for a smaller bearing. Ceeway sell a tool to ream it out, I'll check the spec on that.
dont want to sound cheeky but are you measuring in the correct place? it doesn't look like, from the snap, like you're measuring in the centre of the tube
it does look like that but it is in fact 51mm internal (my calipers are shit though so +/-0.3 probably). I've emailed Ceeway to try to find out what size it's meant to be reamed out to. Peter confirmed it is meant to be reamed out as welding can deform the tube, and the tool to do so costs £140 (reamer) plus about £80 (holder)
I thought you'd be doing it correctly
thanks for believing in me.
Is there a forumunger that knows anyone who might have the right tool?
is 1mm too much for a reamer to handle? I needed a fork steerer reamed cos the butting made it impossible to fit a quill stem in to a reasonable length. I found a machinist guy in west norwood who had retired, but was willing to do it for me.
It was a little while ago but iirc he said it was bloody difficult, and if I'd wanted any more material removed the next thing would be to get a massive drill involved.
Bike shops weren't able to help at all really.
Is it something Winston Vaz might be able to offer a few pointers on?
thanks, I was beginning to think I'd gone mad from everyone saying it can't be done.
I'll give Winston a call and report back.
Engineering workshop, like someone who does engine reconditioning should be able to sort that out for you.
Try asking in I am a framebuilder AMA (https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/311246/) ?
will do , ta
Spoke to Winston, he doesn't have the right reamer tool but thinks someone will, just got to keep asking around.
Reactivating the thread because...
Need a seat tube reamed out from 26.8-27.0-ish* to a reliable 27.2.
Is this something a frame builder can do /or/ is it LBS work? Any recommendations? The frame is in south west London. Thanks.
*it’s a Raleigh Dynatech cro-mo rear triangle. I can’t work out what the actual seatpost diameter is meant to be. 26.4 (what I was told it should be) is way too narrow, 27.2 could work with a mallet and a lot of grease.
I’d take it to sbc cycles / seabass / your lbs of choice. If they can’t do it then next choice is finding a machinist shop or something.
Dynatech as in the bonded lugged frameset? What are the 3 main tubes made out of?
Thanks... emailed Clever Mike’s but no reply. I wondered if enquiries like that got filed under “HELL NO!” because of liability.
It’s the Diablo stx, so down tube and top tube are Ti, the rear triangle is steel.
You need to work out what size post should be in it and get one.
Reaming should (as I now understand it) be used to return the id of the seat tube to round after brazing/welding. Ie, to remove slight distortions, not to increase the id.
I'd be starting by having a look down inside the tube to judge the condition of the metal. If it seems like a 27.2 is close then it might be 27.2 just with some rust on the inside of the tube. You can make a good tool for cleaning up the inside with a mudguard stay or wire coat hanger and some emery/sand paper strip or wire wool or scotch pad.
If the top of the tube is in good nick then maybe find a shop with a set of gauges
and thank you. I’ll try the ‘cleaning’ route first and take it from there.
The tube in question is below and has some weird stuff going on (to my eye):
The lug has an off-centre bore and there’s also a barely-visible lip that drops a few mm from the top of tube, down, on the inside. These things, along with the anecdotal (Internet) evidence that the seatpost ‘fit’ was variable on these frames, led me to think I should just get the bloody thing reamed and live with the consequences!
Don't worry about formatting, just type in the text and we'll take care of making sense of it. We will auto-convert links, and if you put asterisks around words we will make them bold.
For a full reference visit the Markdown syntax.
© LFGSS, powered by microcosm.
Report a problem
London Fixed Gear and Single-Speed is a community of predominantly fixed gear and single-speed cyclists in and around London, UK.
This site is supported almost exclusively by donations. Please consider donating a small amount regularly.