I am a frame builder AMA

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  • Won't that watch leave an irritating pattern on your wrist?

  • Eh

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  • The back is the best bit:

    MUSA cases with modified Swiss movements. $4,750.

  • Stainless tubing...

    Ceeway don’t have xcr on the site, I’m sure Peter could get me a price if I asked but...

    Reset racing don’t have prices up for it either.

    I found this tubeset for sale and it’s £££ so is this just what stainless costs? Is there no cheaper option?

  • Ceeway doesn't just sell the tubes listed on the tubeset page - they can get anything in the Columbus catalogue. But yes, stainless is expensive.

  • stainless is expensive.

    £800 tubeset expensive though? Guess I can just ask Peter.

  • More expensive than Spirit, yes. £800 from Ceeway, dunno. I've never ordered any XCR from Ceeway. Yet. As a comparison, prices for KVA stainless tubing (not available directly in the UK AFAIK) can be found here.

  • I am planning on teaching myself to braze and I’m aiming to start by moding an old set of Marin forks with some mid fork rack mounts and some external dynamo cable routing.

    I have a basic propane torch set but I am unsure exactly which flux and rods will be best to learn and practice with. Please help me!

  • Rack mounts will end up taking big loads so I'd recommend brass rather than silver for that, not least because it's easier to build up a nice big fillet. I've always used Cycle Design LFB rods and LFB flux. The flux is water soluble, which is nice. Both available from Ceeway.

  • Awesome, thank you.

    Ceeway stock bottle cage mounts and reinforcement plates and also mudguard eyelets. Can these be used as mid fork mounts, or is it best to stick to the pannier mounts?

  • Most bottle cage mounts and reinforcement plates are designed for M5 bolts, whereas panniers will almost invariably take M6 bolts. The framebuilding manual I've got (the Patarek one) says you shouldn't use braze-ons for lower pannier mounts, only the top ones which have much lower loadings. I've seen it done, but equally I can see the logic for not relying upon a braze in shear for high loadings.

    Easy option would be to drill a hole in the side of the forks and braze in an M6 bottle mount boss. If you do that you could use silver, as the fork leg itself would be taking the vertical loads - for silver (non-fillets) I use System 48 and the System 48 flux. If I was doing it I'd be tempted to make up some custom top hat inserts with a larger flange on the outside that would go all the way through the fork and be brazed into place on the inside of the fork and then filed smooth. However, that would require access to a lathe in order to make the inserts.

    The other option would be to use the hour glass pannier bosses, preferably the largest you can get, and stick them on with brass with a nice big fillet. Probably deprecated, but in practice I suspect it would be fine.

    Having said all that, this isn't something I've ever actually done myself, so there may be others out there better able to advise based on experience rather than theory.

  • whereas panniers will almost invariably take M6 bolts.

    Going to have to disagree there. I’ve never owned a bike, frame or fork that had m6 rack eyes.

  • Where is appropriate?
    i.e. when do you need bespoke when steel won't do?

    Initial thought is custom bikes for people who want to go as fast as they can.
    If you buy a wyndy milla, fifty one, enigma, burls, duratec it's partly about quality/craftsmanship/colourscheme and partly about speed (especially if your bodyshape doesn't suit OTP frames)

    Printed lugs with tubes of any material (stainless, carbon, alu, ti) bonded could be a super-easy route to bespoke performance.
    If you could de-skill the bond process and hone the design rules you could have a scanning booth at the LBS in which customer selects riding style, gets scanned on a fit-bike and returns 3 days later to collect the frame for an "artisan spray job" of their choice.

  • Likewise. Happy to be proven wrong though. All M5.

  • Quite right, I've just checked a few and they're all M5. Ignore that bit.

  • The only exceptions I know of are the two Thorns I've had, had to drill the racks out to 6mm.

  • Okay great, thank you.

    One more question. I'm staying away from acetylene because of cost mainly and have come across an oxyturbo 90 kit. I'm not too clued up on maxy gas but apparently when combined with the oxygen it burns at over 3000c. Will this be suitable?

  • My Kona Sutra takes M6 on the rear dropout rack eyelets. All the other bikes I've had take M5. Probably for the extra load expected on a proper touring bike

  • One of these things?

    That one is going for £124 on ebay, the Oxy/Propane kit I and a few of the other builder on here have isn't that much more...


    The oxyturbo is going to get real expensive real quick when you start buying new cyclinders for it too. It doesn't take me long to get through a hobbyweld oxygen cylinder that holds about 10litres, then I take my empty cylinder back, pay £25 and get a full one in return. Those oxyturbo cylinders you just buy outright and they seem to be upwards of £25 for 930ml.

  • That’s the one. I have found the kit for £113 with £28 for a pair of refills all delivered. I understand what you’re saying but I’m reluctant to spend too much before I know if I’m any good at it and how frequently I’ll use it. I’m more concerned about getting a kit that is capable first and foremost.

    I think I’ve read that the torch and cables in the oxyturbo kit can be used with propane too so that could be an option if the costs start mounting.

  • I’m sure you could do something with it but I think you’d quickly be wishing you’d just ponied up for the oxy propane stuff.

    When I wanted to upgrade from a mapp torch I looked at them but once I saw the cost of gas bottles I just decided it wasn’t worth it.

    You’d need a pair of regulators to use the torch and lines with bigger bottles so that’s going to be £75-100, probably some proper flashback arresters, another £30, couple quid for paracetamol because different threadings on the fittings will be a headache...

  • It turns out my landlord has a set he has let me borrow, going to test it out. He really likes it for lead welding as a roofer.

  • Does anywhere sell small, plate rack eyes?

  • The eyes on the rack itself?

    I have seen someone on Instagram using these:


    With a hole drilled in, soldered into a rack supporting leg.
    Pretty neat idea I reckon.
    Sorry if I haven't explained very well, words aren't my strong point....

  • The eyes on the rack itself?

    Will have a look at those

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I am a frame builder AMA

Posted by Avatar for coldharbour @coldharbour