I am a frame builder AMA

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  • It wets out a little more than lower percentage silver which can mean it's a little harder to build up as it goes quite runny but may not be a problem with a small torch as it won't be super hot.
    We use 30% for main tube joints at work and 55% for bosses and brazeons

  • We use 30% for main tube joints at work and 55% for bosses and brazeons

    You're working as a framebuilder now? How did I miss this?

  • I did the brake mounts with those exact rods, I'm now using a 39% rod for everything, lugs, braze-ons, sleeve type joints.

  • Not quite. I'm working for one but I'm not building myself for work

  • With 142mm OLD, is the disc rotor spaced 52mm from the centreline?

    I'm flipping a disc hub to mount a sprocket and want to check the chainline.

    TIA!

  • Yes! Oh wait. I think so yes.

  • Thanks! Oh wait. I think. :)

    I was directed to your thread by Rodolfo (who was kind enough to measure his chainline) and have been trying to glean details, but you two are both 135mm and this will be my first 142mm frame.

    Either way, I'm now pretty sure I'll be within shimming distance of a good chainline.

  • Well I don't think there is a difference. At least for a hope Evo 4 hub there isn't a difference between the 135 and 142mm as it is the same hub. So imagine it's the same for most hubs as brakes are placed the same. No?
    This guy confirmed 52mm line on IG


    1 Attachment

    • Screenshot_20230116_202623_Instagram.jpg
  • That's great, thanks.

  • At least for a hope Evo 4 hub there isn't a difference between the 135 and 142mm as it is the same hub. So imagine it's the same for most hubs as brakes are placed the same. No?

    Yes. The only difference between 135mm and 142mm is the width of the end caps, to give the extra 3mm in hub axle length that slots into the recess in the rear dropouts. Apart from that they're the same.

  • Anybody know @Biggles567 (aka Max) irl?
    If so, could you ask him to check his messages on here please.
    Many thanks.
    J

  • I messed up cutting the top of my seattube down and now can’t quite get it level. It’ll be under a collar but I’d like it to be right. There’s plenty left but I don’t want to keep filing in vain. What’s my best option - would a bike shop be able to do this? Or a framebuilder with a belt sander or something. Any suggestions in London? Thanks! :)

  • Have you got a tube clamp or maybe a fork steerer cutting guide you can use as a file guide?

  • Sadly only basic hand tools

  • Even wrapping masking tape around should give you quite a good guide to follow by eye.

  • Even wrapping masking tape around should give you quite a good guide to follow by eye.

    This. It's the only way I can cut or file in a straight line!

    Only other thing would be if it's a 28.6mm seattube and there's room, stick an old 1 1/8" stem around it and file down to that.

  • Question: How do you pick what mech hanger to use? Do you just look at a chart and think what would work well and then try and pick something incredibly obscure to make everyone else's life really difficult down the line (it's what I'm guessing bike mfrs do) or is it predicated by the dropouts that you're using and you just go with the flow?

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I am a frame builder AMA

Posted by Avatar for coldharbour @coldharbour

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