I am a frame builder AMA

Posted on
Page
of 55
First Prev
/ 55
Next
  • Oh that’s excellent - thanks

  • Lengthening a steel steerer - Is it generally safe to do if done professionally?
    Should a sleeve be added inside the steerer, behind the join between the new and old steerer segments?

  • My opinion, it’s fine.

    I have a couple I’ve done for myself and I did one for Mrs M_V to turn a threaded fork into an ahead.

    Guy I know that used to weld professionally, like nuclear power station stuff, says you shouldn’t even really need a sleeve if you’re welding it. A good, full penetration weld would be as strong as the rest of the tube.

    For brazing I do a sleeve. Think the wife’s one I did with silver instead of brass and it probably worked better/went together more easily but it’s going to be a lot cheaper doing it with brass.

  • I do it all the time. Have also done both brass and TIG. I always use machined sleeve. Makes it easier to get good alignment and you can turn the amps up for a solid joint

  • Going to get a frame sprayed fairly soon, but wondered about getting a braze on front mech hanger. Why is it less common for modern bikes to use the them?

  • More chainring sizes than there used to be

  • Bent seat stays, how y’all bending them?

    Or can I buy single bend stays with just a subtle bend in?

    I looked on Ceeway but the only single bend ones I could see were fat bikes ones that had an 18deg bend I think. I’m looking for the kind of subtle bend that’s in a Steamroller stay, can’t be anything more than a couple degrees.

  • Cheapo pipe bender from eBay. Cost about 20 quid.

  • Like a 15/22mm one?

    I have a Tubela bender with 22mm die, reckon I can chuck a 16 or 19mm stay in there and get a couple degrees on it without it crushing?

  • 1/2" one as I'm using 12mm T45 tubing.

    If you're just putting a slight curve on it I reckon you've got a fair bit of wriggle room in the mandrel size.

  • Hi,

    I've always desperately wanted a concorde frame and and one has come up but with a dinged chainstay (see pic (hopefully)).

    I know it's not easy to see exactly, but could anyone guesstimate if its ok to ride (short distances) and/or how possible / expensive it would be to fix? I would have thought the frame is only worth 250 or 300 quid max, so I doubt it would be economical, but would welcome an expert opinion.

    Many thanks


    1 Attachment

    • dinged chainstay.jpg
  • How did the dent happen? How bad does it look from other angles?

  • Sorry, don't know - this is all I have from the ad. Appreciate it's crystal ball territory.

  • Doesn’t look particularly deep or sharp edges so probably won’t be going anywhere in a hurry.

    Repair, I’d probably do it for £75-100.

  • Awesome thanks, that puts it in economically possible territory. Maybe the dream will happen!

  • In the same vein as Drn22’s question above, I am looking for a cheap steel commuter for a flat 3 mile commute, I’ve found a nice Dawes Super Galaxy for ~£325 but I’m hesitating over these top tube scratches shown in the attached photos. Hard to see much detail/depth of the rust, but the frame is potentially double butted 853. I’m not fussy about looks so I’d probably gently sand it back and primer>paint just that patch.
    Would anyone have any advice RE: severity of the rust damage based on these photos please? If a replacement tube is likely to be needed I’d probably look for a different frame to be honest.

    Link to likely frame (seller unable to be precise): https://www.cyclinguk.org/sites/default/­files/document/migrated/publication/2008­03062.pdf.

    Thanks in advance! C

  • would it be ill advised to braze a disc tab onto a frame that has a steel rear triangle, that is bolted / bonded to an aluminium main frame?

  • Not necessarily. But I'd like to see this monster before judgement

  • Here it is


    3 Attachments

    • C97DA33A-C985-4E7E-9DAA-FFFC4A205B5B.jpeg
    • D4DC3749-F984-403A-8DFA-1877D8B957AB.jpeg
    • 883FAA4E-1F5A-46E3-9F4A-1640DF179106.jpeg
  • Rad, giant?

  • It would be well advised to braze in a strut between seat stay and chainstay whilst you were at it if you did go that route.

  • I'd be slightly concerned about braking forces damaging the joint between the nds chainstay and the bb shell/lug.

    I have no scientific basis for my concern.

  • Mmmm

    If there is strut bracing the nds seat stay and chainstay I would think it would hold.

    @MCamb if you can live with the risk of it eventually failing i would say go for it.

  • Where are the photos of top tube scratches?

    If the rust is superficial I'd be more concerned about whether the builder sprayed some Frame Saver inside. ISTR Dave Yates told me that skipping this step is a major cause of early death of a steel frame. I have no idea whether you can assume an old Dawes has this protection, but there are plenty still around, so I would think so.

  • Post a reply
    • Bold
    • Italics
    • Link
    • Image
    • List
    • Quote
    • code
    • Preview
About

I am a frame builder AMA

Posted by Avatar for coldharbour @coldharbour

Actions