Custom Paint - Workshop specials.

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  • Great progress here.

    Top work.

    Burning through is part of learning... keep doing it.
    You can't learn where the limits are if you don't break them!

  • Looks good to me. Actually, looks great.

    Things got shiny, alas some bits got burnt through in the process.

    No-one else will ever notice. They'll see it from at least 3 feet away and be very impressed.

  • They'll see it from at least 3 feet away and be very impressed.

    Let’s hope!

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  • Any thoughts on how to achieve this type of effect? I guess lay down a base colour and then either sponge/rag roll/cling film a colour on top. Just looking for pointers on the technique really.

  • I think I've figured it out, just spray a bit of the accent colour onto steel wool and dab it on. Looks pretty good on my test piece but I'm sure it's not to everyone's taste.

    Just worried about bleeding under the decals that i'll be putting on top as the accent colour is more pronounced. I'll give it a going over with 1200 grit first though probably.

  • I saw something like this years ago on a car in a magazine. They did black, let it dry, heavy coat of silver then scrunched up a plastic bag and dabbed it all over and then a red tint lacquer over the top. Looked quite good. Looked similar to that affect.

  • Just realised I never replied back to this but thanks for your help.

    This is the second frame I've done with the first not really being my cup of tea so won't be showing it! Few things is I thought I had done enough clear on the first coat but its seem like I haven't. The fork is perfect though. Couple more questions @general_greyharbour can I go over the clear again without sanding with wet and dry once its fully dried. Been over a week now since I done it.

    I noticed that the Metallic Montana Golds sit on the frame way way better than the solid colours, which is good but limiting in terms of colours.

    Lastly, I've been given a load circa 40 can of Cellulose spray paint, all new unused but from the research I have done the 2K lacquer won't sit well on top of this.. maybe 1K would work better but have you got any advice?

  • Quick answer on the clearcoat... you'll need to scuff it first on this instance or the bond will be sub-optimal. Otherwise it'll be like painting on glass... it will be sticky but there'll be no mechanical bond and eventually they could delaminate.

    Generally speaking, nitro-cellulose paints don't need to be abraded between coats but on a rattle can clear, deffo scuff.

    You're right about product mixing.
    Good practice says that you should be using products with suitable solvent relationships.

    Get yourself some of these if you don't already... TEST PANELS
    You should do a couple of these every time you paint... make sure your layers are going to bond well and that your recipes are suitable. Keep notes on the back regarding temperature, number of coats etc. Useful for repairs and also good for your portfolio... more importantly, if you goof, you'll ruin a cheap panel and not someone's bike!

    One thing that the visual appearance of a finish can't tell you is the strength of the actual bonds... if the bike looks good, that's cool but if the paint flakes off after a summer then you'll have people asking you why.

    Extensive testing on panels will help you figure out the combos which work for you.

    As you come to paint a greater quantity of colour product you'll come to learn things like... metallics can cover better BUT the caveat is, they show prep marks and imperfections more significantly... on your final image, there are a couple of dings in the metal around the seat tube insertion area... some colours would hide this much better but a silver-like colour such as you've used is going to make a highlight of that!

    Good luck with it all.

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Custom Paint - Workshop specials.

Posted by Avatar for coldharbour @coldharbour