Recommend 1" headset cup remover

Can anyone recommend where to find a 1" headset cup remover ? I have a generic icetoolz one which says it works for 1 to 1 1/8" but it is too large in diameter to splay out and make contact wth the cups. I think i need a smaller diameter tool but can't seem to find one

Thanks

How does it splay too much? It opens as wide as the headtube allows.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VkY879pMafE

I did this and it worked superbly

Sometimes they're really difficult to get into the head tube. Easiest way is to go "backwards". I mean, if you wanna remove the lower race, push the tool in from below so that the race compresses the splayed bits. Even so, that can be a struggle and you need to coax it in from below with dextrous fingerosity, suppository-stylee.

Brilliant spot @Jelliffe99. Making one of these this weekend as have exactly this job to do.

I guess you mean it's too long for the head tube, so the cup opposite the one you're trying to remove stops it splaying out?

I had the same problem.

Try jamming the handle of a screwdriver or similar up inside to force the tangs out, or pull the top of the remover to one side of the head tube so one of the tangs makes contact and work your way around.

Failing that use a screwdriver to remove one cup, you should find the remover then works on the remaining cup.

I think you'll find all removers are a similar length.

The Icetools ones do work but are a bit tricky. Locate as centrally as you can and tap very gently to begin with then a big whack when it feels connected. Took me a while to get it but was then no probs.

This exactly right Scilly, it's not splaying out too much, rather the opposite cup stops it splaying out at all because the internal diameter of the cup sleeve is approximately the same as the outer diameter of the tool, so it pinches it straight. Having read some online reviews of the similar tools others have also mentioned having issues with 1" headsets

The problem is exacerbated by two issues - the headtube has a recess at each end so only a small area of the cup lip sticks out. I also believe the Icetoolz tool has a fairly thin lip on each tang so making contact is more difficult even when leaning the tool to one side. I saw a Park one in a shop before and the tangs looked thicker. The headset cups are aluminium so tapping with a screwdriver just damages them.

I'll try wedging the tool open as you suggested.

So the head tube is too short for the tool. I doubt you'll read of anyone having the same problem with 1/8" headsets, for obvious reasons.

A tool with thicker tangs won't solve your problem: it's the amount of lip showing that's the limiting factor.

Yes, a screwdriver will damage the lip of the cup. But it won't materially affect the headset in use and you won't see it when fitted. If you work slowly (tap it once and move on) and in a figure-of-eight pattern (as you would when tightening a stem's faceplate), you can limit the damage.

Something else you could try, is to bend the tangs out at a point below the cup you aren't removing. You don't need to be too precise, as the headtube will form the tangs into shape/size.

The DIY tool video is a good suggestion: you could make it specific to the length of your headtube.

Tried bending the tangs out and using a socket to keep the tool spread but it kept slipping. Got one cup out with a screwdriver , had to head to lbs for the other . Even they couldn't get it out with their tool, ended up mangling it a bit with a makeshift punch. They agreed the tools aren't really suitable for 1" headtubes. Think I'll look at making one from smaller diameter copper pipe for next time

If you still had difficulties with one cup out, then it's the recess that was the problem.

Never come across that before, it seems like a poor design as you could end up with a cup not fully seated.

tl/dr
1" is dead, long live 1 1/8"

It's an old cannondale frame, an unusual feature for sure . Tempted to stick with integrated headset frames, much less hassle. Have a Chris King I intended to put in but don't want to destroy it!

Stronglight A9 are cheap, even cheaper in steel and pretty swag too!

I could help out by fitting the CK to the Yokel-Motion.