• Lots of variables here depending on what exact setup you're going for.

    I found best bed was to use a piece of string outside the frame as a guess and then add a bit extra.

  • Cheers, was hoping to get the cables ordered prior to the frame arriving (due to some time limited voucher codes I can use).

    It will be seat post battery, stem and bb junction boxes

  • Can I ask a question about your 51cm ... what size rider is it for? I'm a smaller rider and trying to work out what would be best. I'm sitting between the 51 and 53.

    The answer might be: go see a fitter, but I'm lazy

    ¯_(ツ)_/¯

  • It's for my girlfriend, she's 5ft 3

    She went to Scherrit for a fitting

  • Sorry, we weren't being willfully obtuse, it's just that there are so many different things that effect the lengths! You're best bet as mentioned above is waiting until bike is built, but if you've got to order them now you might as well go a bit longer, and run the risk of needing to return.
    Box a to b is 1600mm
    Battery to b 1300mm
    Fr mech to b is 350mm
    Rr mech to b is 650mm
    Shifters to a would be 350mm each side

    Above is working on the assumption that you are running a under stem junction a box. If you're getting a bike shop to build it I'd run this passed them as they may have their own ideas about routing, which will effect length.

  • there are so many different things that affect the lengths!...I'd run this past them as they may have their own ideas about routing, which will affect length.

    ftfy

    #inb4schick

  • Ok cheers Matt, yeah had to order last night unfortunately.

    Might have gone a bit short on Box A to B and Battery to B. Should be able to return them easily though. All other lengths should be good.

    Another few questions whilst you're here...

    1 - What is the max tyre size the 51cm can run on 26" wheels with guards?
    2 - On the Isen frames does junction B lodge in the downtube or seat tube?

    Ta

  • For 2, it can be either, I found the downtube easier though as it is a larger diameter tube.

    Some points from my setup

    • As the bb is just a BSA threaded there isn't a lot of room around the axle shell for cables, so try to keep things tidy.
    • Fair of forceps can be very useful with getting the internal routing working
    • Kind of have to force di2 cable through port on chainstay. This required some force due to the size of the hole and the small tube diameter here to get it around the bend. Then you push cable through and fish for it through the BB shell.
    • Due to location on chainstay on BB shell the hole for the routing is within the threads for the BB cup. Try to use a shallow bb cup without too many threads. For example, I couldn't use the Chris King BB I had as it'd shear the di2 cable, so went with a shimano one instead.
  • Very useful thanks

    Yeah I've also specced a BSA Threaded BB was just going to be using a standard Shimano Ultegra BB with it.

    Sounds like the whole thing is going to be a bit of a faff, shame second hand Di2 was so much cheaper than second hand Etap.

    Might be a stupid question but how do you keep the cables tidy inside the frame? Tape them to parts of it?

  • I just stuffed any excess up in the downtube didn't tape them or anything,

    the working area is so small due to the BSA it is a real faff.

    If I was to have a custom bike done in the future I'd either go with T47 bb (or etap)

  • Might be a stupid question but how do you keep the cables tidy inside the frame? Tape them to parts of it?

    Zip ties, leave the ends un-cut and they curl up in the tube, preventing rattles...

  • Whose is the bike in this week’s Hunt email?

  • That’s me. :)

  • Cool, cheers for the tip

  • Looks wicked with the pink bottles. Riding in that weather can >>>>>>>>

  • Haha. This is last weekend. Running schwalbe winter 30mm studs


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  • That last picture looks like incredible riding!

  • Wow. That last pic is stunning.

    What do the studs feel like on tarmac?

    I live in the Peaks. I just ride the trainer if it’s icy. That’s not going to work for PBP training I’m guessing.

  • Studs are heavy and slow generally but work magic on the ice.

    This was a 200km Permanant Audax called Ride Around Ben Klibreck up in Sutherland. It was probably 50km snow and ice, 150km plowed clean tarmac.

    The ride took us probably 3 to 3.5 hours longer than usual for such distance. So think of it as extra PBP training.

    1. Let me not answer you directly again ;)
      It really depends on tyre and rim choice. I'll check what caren is running when I get in, but she's got some bon pass compass tyres on stans rims, I think they're 2"? What do you want to run, I'll see what we've got to test, I can also measure nominal max on your frame, but it doesn't tell you everything.
    2. I'd go dt as it's easier to cram in there.
  • Cheers Matt!

    1 - Fenella replied regarding tyres. Apparently Caren's tyres (44mm quoted size) measure 40mm on her rims and fit with 45mm PDW guards on her 51cm

    Was hoping to run some Marathon Supreme's in 42mm but that might be too big so might opt for some cheaper 35mm Kojaks and can then size up when they wear out if she wants more comfort.

    2 - Great cheers

  • @coldharbour

    Are there any thoughts on adapting the All Season design to have rear TA given the standards seem to have settled on 142x12mm?

  • It's now an option. Personally, I'm still a fan of 135qr for this sort of bike, easier to secure, easier to maintain narrower q factor and so on, but I know there is no point in fighting the flow of industry "standards". We are also doing a rohloff option, with removable drop outs which let's you swap out to any of the common standards as well as rohloff. Excuse unedited photo.


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  • That’s so nice

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Isen workshop: adventures in batch production (or not...)

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