• Hi, I got a frame and classic threaded steel forks, both 1".

    Unfortunately the forks are too short (around 190mm), as the frame headtube is 197mm.

    What do you think about this idea: I cut off the threaded part of the forks, so it's around 170mm afterwards. Then I put in a fork extender like this https://www.2wheelshop.eu/media/catalog/­product/cache/11/image/1024x768/9df78eab­33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/7/2/725130.png and suddenly the fork is 270mm long.
    Then I remove the 1" threaded headset from the frame and install a 1" threadless. Should work fine, no?

  • wouldn't it be easier just to buy new forks that are the right length?

  • I personally would buy another fork that fits but why do you need to cut the threaded part?,

  • What you're suggesting is the worst possible solution: replace the steerer or buy new forks.

    Winston will replace the steerer for £60.

  • well there is certainly no doubt that new forks will fit better.

    BUT... this fork is the original fork, and it's a very special one, so please understand that I do not want to replace it if I don't have to.

    I would cut the threaded part as it is weaker than the unthreaded part - the forks would be too long anyway with that adaptor fitted

  • If you want to keep the fork, then getting the steerer replaced is your best option.

    Winston did mine: https://www.lfgss.com/comments/13352397/­

  • Should work fine, no?


    For so many reasons, no.

    New steerer, new fork, or a new set of teeth.

  • Didn't know you could have a steerer changed, amazing guys

  • Please let me know at least one of them, or better all of them.

  • Replacing the steerer is only possible when the original steerer has been fixed with silver braze, as the unbrazing of brass braze induces too much heat into the fork crown and makes it brittle

  • Quils and wedges like that are, by design, not an exact fit inside the steerer, there is nothing about the design that accounts for the alignment of the adapter with the steerer.

    You'd have steerer through the bottom bearing and the poorly aligned (and not very well attached) adapter through the top bearing resulting in uneven loading of the bearings.

    The actual steerer would only be supported by the bottom bearing and would be free to flop around inside the headtube, supported only by aforementioned poorly toleranced and weak joint with the adapter.

  • Well yes the alignment might be poor, but the connection not weak? Remember that every classic stem has that "weak" connection as a standard and only connection between handlebar and bike.
    So I understand if you say it's not ideal for the headset, but I can't see any teeth-endangering weak spot?

  • Connecting handlebars to a properly supported steerer tube = 1 thing.
    Anchoring an unsupported steerer, running through the second headset bearing and connecting handlebars = quite another.

  • Yes, it's not exactly the same, but I still cannot see that weak spot you suggest, if you tighten everything with the right torque. I have never seen a quill connection come loose by itself.
    Only issue that I see from your remark would be the imperfect alignment in the headset.

  • You seem to have made your mind up, so just do it.

  • how, if it's the original fork, is it too short? is it possible to source another matching fork with a longer steerer?

  • Don't forget that you'll need to buy a threadless headset for the unthreaded section of the steerer.

  • Yeah, no you're right, it'll be totally fine. Totally.

  • Where is the teeth-smashing weak point? I would like to hear what kind of mechanism/cause/effect you have in mind that will lead to a fatal failure.

  • It's a fucking bodge mate.

  • At best, your head bearings will need replacing a lot more often and your stearing won't feel quite right, but hey don't let us put you off.

    What sort of forks are they? Why do you think the crown would be weekened by "unbrazing"? Where did you get this information from? Don't you think an expert frame builder like Winston is in a far better position to make that judgement on your specific forks?

  • For sure it's a bodge. But it's meant to be used on a bike that is not used much anyway, maybe once a week or less. And as long as the bodge doesn't mean that I lose my teeth but instead is just a headset-eater, I am fine. I will definitely try this just to see how misaligned the headset actually is.
    I am just curious if anyone has an actual situation in mind where my bodge would actually cause a sudden dangerous bigger failure.

  • I heard that from an actual frame builder. Too much heat needed to unbraze a brass brazed steerer. Cast steel parts like a fork crown don't like that.

  • popcorn.gif

  • An actual frame builder? ... not the actual frame builder? ... Maybe get a second opinion from someone with decades of experience looking at the actual forks in question?

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Threaded 1" forks too short - would conversion to threadless be a solution?

Posted by Avatar for jetski @jetski