Ribble from Rubble

I've been known to hammer a cheap kitchen knife under the race to create a gap then a screw driver once it fits.

edit my interwebs connection obvs has a lag..

If you're still having trouble removing the race from your forks a good method is to gently tap a razor blade between the bottom of the race and the fork. You need to start in one spot then pull the blade and start again, moving around the circumference of the race. Take your time and tap on the razor gently or it'll snap but the race will start to budge. Once the gap has widened a bit you can use a thin flat screwdriver as a wedge to increase the gap. When it's even wider you can use a bigger flat bladed screwdriver, still using it side on as a wedge to increase the gap. You'll probably only need to move the race about 5mm off before it comes loose, good luck!

Another dumb question...would an ultegra 11-speed double front mech work on my 105 10-speed set up? Surely there can't be that much variance between a 10-speed and 11-speed front mech?

Not a dumb question - and counter to other people, I'm not sure it will work. The new 11 speed front mech's have a totally different position for mounting and cable pull, so it might work, but will at best be sub-optimal. Better to get a band on adapter as others have suggested

The crown race isn't budging, and if I buy a new fork I'll need a new front caliper too as the Allan bolt is rounded, and therefore stuck, in the existing forks.

Anyone selling a cheap, black, 105 5700 front caliper?

Did you try the razor blade method? It's never failed me, although I have heard of forks that come with bonded on races, but think that's unlikely in your case. Might have a black 5600 front calliper if that'll do?

There's some white PX forks in the classifieds here for £7 but they 1/4-1/8 tapered which I'm guessing your head tube is not?

I did indeed, @GreatSince78, to no avail. I've an angle grinder, and reckless attitude, so i'll give it one last bash before resorting to buying another component. If you could confim the availablity of the caliper just in case, that'd be great. I'd need it posted though as i'm up North.

And i had seen the forks, mate. But no...top tube is straight.

Checked my spares box and the calliper I mentioned is a 5600 but it's silver I'm afraid... Let me know if it's still of use. Before you attack your fork with an angle grinder how about investing in a crown race remover, only £14, so cheaper than having to replace your forks and a handy tool to have:

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-crown-race-remover/?lang=en&curr=GBP&dest=1&sku=5360596877&kpid=5360596877&utm_source=google&utm_term&utm_campaign=UK_PLA_Accessories&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mkwid%7CsqHxT97ZV_dt%7Cpcrid%7C67090840622%7Cpkw%7C%7Cpmt%7C%7Cprd%7C5360596877uk

OK, so the angle grinder didn't really work.

I think the tool is effective, but inability to grip it properly and allow it to fly out of my hand and carve its way along the deck wasn't well received by the other half. She suggested i stop being a dickhead and 'get a man in'.

A junior hacksaw from the shed has worked its trick. The crown race is removed, hurrah. The story doesn't end here though, dear readers, oh no. The fork isn't standard. The base of where the original crown race sits was actually welded on/integral.

The new crown race fits, but over time i think it'll become ropey. Is it worth getting a new fork? I don't really want to be considering this type of shit when i'm hurtling down the hills.

The issue which follows is that the caliper is essentially stuck to the fork. Should i get the angle grinder out again and free the caliper, then purchase this...?

A new fork feels somewhat anathema to a 'budget' build. What do i do?

Lastly, the range of cable housing at Decathlon was somewhat limited. I have white cable housing throughout. White.

How do you mean, ropey? As in it'll come loose or what? Crown races are usually splittable these days if it's a cartridge bearing HS. Not stuck on super tight like on old loose bearing setups.

Ps if the hex bolt is rounded out you can sometimes whack a torx bit in there to get a grip. Worth trying before firing up the power drill.

The crown race is split, yeah. Because of the welded-on part the crown race doesn't sit flush with the fork, and there's a 2mm gap between the fork and the headtube and the gap increases to 3mm or 4mm depending which way the fork is turned. I've never ridden a road bike, but i presume i'll be doing close to 48mph on the flat, so i really don't fancy doing that on a dodgy looking set-up.

The caliper is now free. A search of the internet advised simply turning the caliper, instead of the bolt. It looks like someone glued the bolt into the fork.

The new fork is now on order from Planet X . £49.99.

I also paid for next day delivery, so i'll get it on Tuesday. In a different colour.

Last total: £162
Cables and Housing: £14.96
Fork: £53.95 inc P&P

Current build cost: £230.91

Need:

1. Brake Pads
   
2. Star nut alternative as they all say 'for metal'...there's a carbon alternative, i presume?
   

Yes, you'll need a carbon steerer bung ala
http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/FSPXFBUMK2/planet-x-carbon-steerer-fork-bung-mk-2
If you hunt around I'm sure you'll find for cheap or some kind soul on here might have one knocking around...
Awesome project BTW :)

For carbon steerers which aren't open at the base, there are expanding plugs. A budget version of http://www.hopetech.com/product/head-doctor/ may take the rest of your budget.

£4? http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-compression-plug-with-alloy-cap/

2.Star nut alternative as they all say 'for metal'...there's a carbon alternative, i presume?

Yep, star nuts are for alloy steerers and are (pretty much) permanent. You want something like this:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/fsa-compressor-pro-1-18-top-cap-th884/

I think I have something spare if you can wait for me to have a look through my parts box later.

Go down your street, find a locked up bike that's had its wheels, seat etc stolen. Something that nobodies coming back for. Undo top cap, stem and hey presto, some forks. 60 quid saved.

Chances of getting a long enough steerer?

Correct approach is to give council notice of abandoned bike, leave a note and give it a week or two before removing the bike.

Maybe not high but worth a thought. I've had decent enough bits this way before. I haven't gone the council route but would never take anything unless it seems very clear that nobody is coming back for it. Chain rusted solid, flat tyres sometimes cracking, a lot of parts missing are all signs its no longer loved.

Good find on the lifeline bung, @Emyr. It's the same brand as the headset. I'll see if @Pifko has anything in his box of goods first of all.

And my neighbourhood is too gentrified to have bikes, unloved, chained to railings. Sadly.

I've got a specialized carbon fork you can have cheap if you're in London

Cheers @Monster1985, but i'm in Manchester.

close to 48mph on the flat

Seems a bit slow but I assume you mean into a strong headwind.

This arrived today, after being reassured that paying for next day delivery at 10am on Friday would mean i was guaranteed to get it on Saturday. Shiny new fork and a caliper bolt.

Work is crzy right now so i'll try and get it together tomorrow or Wednesday. Just need a bung for the steerer and i'll be done.

Ta-da! As they say.....

All done. Couple of snags, but nothing major. I reckon it could use a new chain, for starters. A friend who i trust says KMC would be a good replacement. Had a friend do the final assembly and wiring up for me for the cost of a bottle of wine.

So yup...all done, and with the cost of a new chain total comes in at £242.90. Quite pleased, and i think it looks ok considering it's cost. Shame it needed a new fork as this was 20% of the final cost, but i'm pleased nonetheless.