Hacks / Bodges

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  • an ugly quill stem with obscure 1-1/4” steerer.

    You mean 1-1/8" steerer quill stems, right? They are not obscure at all (although usually pretty ugly). Neat work though!

  • I think some Kleins and maybe old Cannondales came with 1 1/4" threaded steerers for a time..

  • Lots of Girvin Flexstems (which were mostly quill) are 1 1/4" too.

    I also dig that black industrial stem. Its great.

  • True, but that Deda stem and the tube are 28.6mm (1'1/8").

  • 1" steerer has I.D of 22.2mm
    1 1/8" steerer has I.D of 25.4mm (1")
    1 1/4" steerer has I.D of 28.6mm (1 1/8")

  • Steerer = the fork's steering column in your post. The original sentence refers only to the stem, so I read steerer as the stem's fork clamp size, which is the usual denomination.

  • Any info on the quill stem? that thing is raaaaad!

    except the canti hanger cus cantis blow

  • Yeah, just to clarify, it's a 1-1/4" threaded steerer which takes a 1-1/8" (28.6mm) quill. There are a few 28.6mm quill stems knocking about but I didn't see many/any for 31.8mm bars.

    @t0-ster it's the stem off my Rudy Project. I think it might be original to the bike but I want a bit of drop and I don't really like how much I have to force it open to get risers through it.

  • Might suit the Concept Bikes & Bike Innovation - for better or worse thread better.

  • In case anyone's interested, those home drilled studs all utterly failed within a couple of light CX training sessions. The rubber is just too soft a substrate.

  • Want to know what's going on with those bars but can't find anymore photos of it.

  • Can't believe that, they're painted and patina'd just like the bar ends.

    Shows them fitted and equipped with ball ends when the bike is in use.

    I suspect the comment about them being for pushing the bike through snow might be closer to the mark.

  • Bar ends specifically for pushing through snow?
    That's a niche product if I ever saw one..
    Cool nontheless tho.

  • Like those red/white posts on the roadside, it's so you can find your bike after it snows over it while camping :)

  • How about using something with a flange and fitting it from inside the shoe so that the flange sits directly underneath the insole. A Tee- nut without the prongs would do the job.

  • That would be a better solution. I found drilling through the hard plastic sole "above" the main rubber sole to be a real pain. It would melt something rotten and clog up my drill. For some of the stud holes I had to drill into the plastic a bit because the rubber was worn too thin to accept the full nut. Another pain with a flanged solution would be that I'd probably want to countersink the inner sole to account for the flange and that's tricky to achieve.

    In the end, buying proper CX shoes looks like a much better option.

  • I can't think past that being a very effective thermal bridge.

  • Was your drill bit blunt? Does the sole have kevlar or something in it?

    I bet you'll barely be able to feel a flange through insoles and socks. I just google imaged cx studs and it looks like they're placed right at the toe and mid section of the shoe, ie away from not the balls of your feet where the pressure is when running. I also saw some blade designs that look like front teeth and some that looked narrower and cylindrical rather than the conical football stud shape I'm familiar with.

    A thermal bridge?! Maybe you could get stainless tee nuts if you're worried about that!

  • Personally I think they're to act as a shield from branches hitting your arms when cycling through woodland.

    No idea though really.

  • I know I'm not the first to do it, but I'm quite pleased with this

  • Pffft, tidy, professional-looking jobs have no place in this thread. :)

  • Like this?

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Hacks / Bodges

Posted by Avatar for Thrasher @Thrasher