Two handlebar tourer (Dawes Galaxy)

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  • Yeah straight on the quill with 2 shims. I have dreams about a 1" ahead stem to reduce the shimmage or a custom 22.2mm one, but that would be silly. It would be easier to have 2 handlebars on a 1 1/8" fork - you'd just need 2 ahead stems.

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  • You're alright, thanks for the story :)

  • I've been wanting a porteur rack with low rider pannier rails for a while, but the ones I've seen with that functionality seem overkill and are crazy expensive.

    I love the simplicity of the tubus tara which is great for low rider panniers. So I decided to mimic its design but using the old bent forks which initiated this build and, wait for it, 3 tent poles on top to make a platform - take note @nick_h.

    If you ever want to feel truly alive I can recommend setting up a rack like this just in time to cycle fully loaded to Victoria for the train to Newhaven to catch a ferry to Dieppe. Miraculously it held up for that journey, and the subsequent tour down to Marseille, and I used it around town for a while after that. It was pretty good but ultimately the platform wasn't very sturdy, and there wasn't much support for the bottom of the panniers. If I had more time it would be fun to work on these issues, but life is short and there are better racks out there. Also, a stray football in a park snapped one of the tent poles.

    I can't find any good photos of the rack right now, but here are a few including my mate testing trotify. It might look bonkers to stick another pair of forks on the bike but this setup was actually lighter than most big porteur racks (and admittedly less functional).

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  • A couple of weeks ago I bought this monstrosity on eBay. It's a Nitto Campee 34F aka Big Front Rack and from what I can tell it was commissioned by Rivendell a while ago. It's a bit of a weird design - the bolt slots in the middle don't match up to any fork eyelets so you're supposed to use p-clips or bodge your own struts from the eyelets. Also the slots look nearly parallel to the tangential movement you'd get from rotating the rack around the mounting point at the dropout, so not very adjustable. It's not a proper platform on top but it is quite wide and very long so I think I'll be able to strap a lot on there. To start I'll probably try a basket with zip ties.

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  • I'm pleased with the rack. It's pretty solid. 966 grams without bolts, not that it matters. I want it mounted as far back and low as possible, and that will take some bodging because the cable hanger is in the way of the top tube. I also need the rack to be a bit further back for the p-clip to attach this way. I was debating whether the top tube is really necessary, but just had a thought. What if the top tube was the cable hanger?

    In general I like stuff to be modular so e.g. I can take the rack off without having to fiddle with the brake. But I'm hoping this rack will be a permanent fixture, so I'm tempted to do it. I'm thinking a hole in the top to take the brake outer, and a small hole in the bottom of the same tube for the cable to pass through. And maybe a hacksaw slice through half the tube vertically, connecting the holes so the brake can be detached quickly without undoing the cable.

    Is this silly? The canti yoke might rub on the tube below. I guess water getting into the tubes is also a worry. Maybe I could bung them up with expanding foam after drilling? I think the material is nickel plated CrMo. Will the surface around the holes rust badly?

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  • I dunno about the canti business but wtaf is this thing??

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  • Wow, a trotify in the wild.

  • Yeah it makes your bike a horse. It's not mine, this was a relatively recent prototype being tested.

  • I'm doing the brake cable through the rack thing. Although I want to avoid drilling a big hole in the rack, so I bought a block of aluminium for a couple of quid and spent last night & this morning fashioning a cable stop out of it, which will sit on top of the rack. Pretty pleased with the result given my amateur skills in the workshop.

    I drilled a 5.5mm hole in the top to take the brake outer, or a v-brake noodle, followed all the way through with a 3mm hole to take the inner cable + plastic sleeve. Then drilled a 9mm hole perpendicular (the diameter of the rack tubing), hacksawed off the excess & smoothed down with a bench grinder & sandpaper.

    Next thing is to drill a 3mm hole through the rack which I'm slightly cacking my pants about.

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  • Awesome bike

  • Sheldon brown was a proponent of double bar bikes;­ndex.html

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Two handlebar tourer (Dawes Galaxy)

Posted by Avatar for karolk @karolk