• thats too big IMO

  • Bicycle Mechanic since '93
    Downhill racer since '96

    Pls share your cv…

  • Is there anything really good at removing gorilla glue residue? (Will never use again, a curse on everyone who said it was good as rim tape)

    I used a can of old petrol. I tried acetone but found it just softened it rather than shifting it. As I've found in the past, the best thing for removing duct tape residue is our old friend petrol.

  • the best thing for removing duct tape residue is our old friend petrol

    Well, for some values of "best". D-limonene cleans up tape adhesive residue with much less hazard and unpleasantness.

  • UX designer, since 2020 /thread

  • I ended up using degreaser. Worked well. New tape on with new valve is holding pressure overnight without sealant.

    Any tips for applying the first bit of tape? That always feels the hardest to get nice and taught.

  • 76projects "hi flow no clog" valves - there's no core to take out but it seemed to seat the (previously used/stretched for 1500km, GP5000S TR 28mm) tires very easily with the track pump. Didn't try to inject the sealant thru the valve, I could, but as long as the tire seats this easily there's no need to faff around and risk a mess.

    Just make sure the valve is at the high position if you're bleeding air from a high pressure, "hi flow no clog" also means hi flow of sealant.

  • Any idea where i can get spare velox tyre patches in the large size .


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  • They don't do the big (35mm×70mm) patches separately, just 16mm and 25mm rounds in the reinforced type. Nearest thing is RKITFLAC3250-50 which is 50-off 32mm×50mm standard patches.

  • These are for a tubeless tyre not an inner tube right ?

  • Same difference

  • The red ones are for tubes, the blue (reinforced) ones are for tubeless. Realistically, I suspect that anything small enough to be fixed successfully with a standard patch could be fixed better with an anchovy🤷

  • No doubt it's been noted previously, but these Birzmann levers are the best I've found for tubeless tyres


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  • Going to buy tubeless valves for my new wheels, prefer brass to alloy. Is there any point in paying more for WTB valves or some other that have the rubber oring with the lockout between it and the rim, or are the basic valves from Decathlon (just the metal lockout without rubber) enough?

  • The oring will prevent the nut from scratching your nice new rims.

  • Peaty’s have a lifetime guarantee. https://peatys.co.uk/collections/tubeles­s-valves/products/peatys-x-chris-king-mk­2-tubeless-valves

    I will be buying these next time as I snapped a muc-off valve at the weekend.

  • Personally I find the valves with a rectangular bung at the bottom work much better than those with a circular one, but other than that feel they're all much of a muchness until you get into the new school designs with like, no clog etc. Lockring oring is pretty negligible IMO.

  • Nothing is foolproof but if you're not using a hammer you're doing it wrong

  • I've snapped mucoff valves as well. Not good.

  • First on-road Silca sealant experience this evening. Gravelking Slicks, Silca sealant with one dose of replenisher about a month ago (I added replenisher somewhat early as I was slightly concerned about reports of the sealant drying out).

    Very wet road, lots of leaves and other kerbside shite. Saw the sealant spraying from the front tyre - a lot of sealant. Lots of mess on the forks and on the shoes. Pissing down, dark. Realised after a minute this was not going to be an instant seal, stopped and tried to keep the hole at the bottom. Several minutes elapsed, or so it seemed, before things started to slow down. By then the tyre had lost a fair bit of air but was still just rideable so I rode somewhere quieter for a better look. Whereupon I discovered:

    • a Lezyne road drive - or mine anyway, I haven’t used it for a long time - is useless with a 40mm tyre
    • I really need to sort out those cycling varifocals and the head torch I have been meaning to get, because:
    • a Dynaplug is not much good if you can’t really see exactly where to put it
    • if I hadn’t had mudguards on this bike, there would have been one hell of a mess

    So after what seemed like ages, sealant stopped coming out and I used the CO2 I have been avoiding using in case it affects the sealant, rode home, put proper air in, and swapped the valve core while I was at it.

    So, like my first experience of Silca when I first set the tyres up (with used tyres, one of which had a hole), it can be very slow to seal but it eventually does.

    On the plus side, I guess, I didn’t have to change a tube.

  • Blx its snowing already oh !! Why is sealant water based that goes even thinner when its peeing it down ! Glad you made it home

  • Noted: Pirelli road tubeless appear to be mechanically identical to Hutchinson, so are a very easy fit to Shimano tubeless rims. This may be because Pirelli bike tyres are made by Hutch in France, but I have no definite information on this point.

  • What’s the best way to permanently fix a cut in a tubeless tyre?

  • Depends on the tyre/cut, too big for anchovy? Vulcanised tyre I assume? I've had good success with loctite 480 and rubber/textile Rema patch. 480 is great for filling smaller cuts/nicks in thread too.

  • I've got away with just sticking a regular patch on the inside, if you're careful you can do it with the tyre mostly still on and sealant in the bottom.

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Tubeless Tyres -"saying the same things about tubeless tyres over and over again" Hippy read the first f**king post

Posted by Avatar for dancing james @dancing james

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