• Spent 3 hours swapping tyres on the Bowman to put some bigger 32 cx tyres on for some gravel fun. Put them on the bike to find they don’t fit! Fuuuuck

    A waste of an afternoon and a hundred quid. Am now so pissed off I’m looking at selling the bike for something that has the clearance to put something other than road tyres on.

  • I've just fitted a WTB Horizon to a new front wheel I've built. It seated nicely, albeit with the assistance of the compressor than than just a track pump, but there are two pinholes in the sidewall, just where the tyre tread meets the sidewall carcass. They are actual holes, albeit small ones, and you can feel and hear the air escaping through them. I bought the tyres waaaaaaay too long ago to return them, and I can't even remember where I bought them.

    So, do I

    1. Buy another tyre
    2. Try to fix the pinholes with an inner tube patch
    3. Hope the sealant will plug the holes reliably

    ???

  • Surely sealant will seal them?

  • The clue is in the name

  • Well, I'd hope so but it might result in sealant sprayage, and having covered the living room in Shimano mineral oil (always remove the bung from the cup screwed into the shifter before trying to push mineral oil up from the caliper into the cup, top tip), I'd like to try and avoid that. I suppose the question is really whether it's worth trying to patch it first on a belt and braces precautionary-principle basis first.

  • Patch won't hurt if you're already taking the tyre off and it's not covered in gunk. Sealant will probably work anyway though.

  • I don't have to take the tyre off, but it's no biggy to do so. No sealant added yet - I'm going to wait until I've finished building the frame and fork before adding sealant to the tyres - so entirely gunk-free.

  • Why not then, if you're in no rush then whack a tube in it after the patch is on to make sure it sticks down nicely.

  • Well, I don't have any inner tubes that would fit a 650b 47mm wide tyre at the moment. Probably should do though.

  • I had a similar experience with WTB Nanos. They went on no problem, and seemed to be holding pressure ok. However after a couple of days they lost all their air and holding them underwater showed small bubbles leaking through the one of the injection moulding "nubbins", even with sealant (Stans no tube). I tried taking them for a ride to properly spread the sealant but this didn't make any difference. Then tried an anchovy but also didn't work. Eventually swapped back to my old tyres and am in the process of patching from the inside before steeling myself for another round of tubeless faff plus potential mid-ride disruption.

    TLDR: I have doubts about the quality of the WTB quality control process

  • What is the widest tyre people have run tubeless on a Kinlin XR31T? Is a 42 too much of a stretch?

  • Built my wheel, 2 wraps of Tessa tape pressed down by hand. Just tried to pop the tyre (43c gravelling sk) on with no tube or sealant and no dice. Popped a tube in there just now to make sure tape is pressed down and it inflated with no pops or anything to indicate the bead going into place.

    More tape required?

  • I've done 42c sawtooth no bother, currently on 40c.

  • Never tried the tube way. Made my 1st tubeless setup about 2 weeks ago. I use a booster made of 2l Pet bottle after unsuccesful tried just with floor pump.

    I was expecting a stronger popping sound but it was quite faint. For safety I have inflated the tire after the initial setup a a larger presure just to make sure everything is in place.

    2 weeks later everything holds in place. Usually I have my tires at 40PS but in general I find them after a few days at 30. Not sure if that is unusual but the same was with the tube set-ups.

    Tire was a Venture 47. Hope it helps.

  • Took one side of the tyre off, tube out, valve in, went up fine and popped that one side of the bead back on fine.

    Had some leaks between tyre and rim but now there’s sealant in there it seems to be holding.

    Fingers crossed.

  • Nice one. Ever gone as far as 45? Or is that just daft?

  • My frame would say no.

  • But if it could, would XR31’s cope with such a big tyre? I think in the past it was not recommended to go much past 40’s and I’m trying to work out if I can keep my current wheel set on a new build or if I’ll need to budget for another set.

    Cheers

  • You certainly won't die (from those tyres on that rim unless something out of the ordinary occurs). Try it and see, I reckon it'll be fine but if you don't like it you can then go for a wider rim.

  • You certainly won't die

    That’s what I wanted to here. Thanks

  • Seconded. My old MTB wheels are 22mm external width, and I used to run them with 2.1" tyres. Fairly sure it didn't result in any death.

  • Had my MilkIt valve break yesterday, on a ride. My initial mistake was using 75mm valve length on 33mm wheels so it was easier to break. Second mistake was picking up the "pointy boi" from an already-sealed puncture (oops) and making it bigger -- so the tire lost so much more pressure and sealant... It eventually stopped leaking, so I wanted to pump it a little to see if it really sealed. That's when it happened.

    (noticed I took the valve photo wrong last night... oh well)


    1 Attachment

    • IMG_6269.jpg
  • Tubeless newbie here.

    I have a pair of decent condition Schwalbe G One Allround tyres. These are not the Microskin version Schwalbe sell ideal for tubeless setup.

    ..... still ok for tubeless, just use lots of sealant?

    They’ll be run at low pressures ~ 35-40 psi

  • I might be missing something obvious here but it just looks like the removable valve core has unscrewed?

  • I might be missing something obvious here

    You are. Look again at the core and you'll see the top few mm of the stem still attached to it

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Tubeless Tyres -"saying the same things about tubeless tyres over and over again" Fucking read the fucking first fucking post.

Posted by Avatar for dancing james @dancing james

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