• Wonder when every one says make sure no bubbles under the tape how far do you take it?

    Spent yesterday around 2-3 hours to do, for the first time, a tubeless setup. Damn is a work for the patiencent ones. I was really wondering if is such a good thing and if this setup is such a fesable thing. Time will tell!

    So, my experience.
    Tesa tape, not very strechy. Had to put quite some tension to keep it flat with the rim. Then, when you go with your fingers over it only a small portion properly sticks to the rim imediatly.

    After each streched section and finger pressing, done this with the blunt end of a skewer:

    • lateral movement, perpendicular to the middle channel walls to sit the tape;
    • pressing along the middle channel to sit the tape closer to the wall edge and on the wall.

    The overlaping part of the tape is trickier as bubbles don't have where to escape compared with the 1st layer which can go into the spoke holes.

    After I have done the middle channel poceeded to firmly stick the tape on each side of middle channel up to the rim wall.

    I might have take it to another level and must discover an easier way. The good thing of it, I guess, is that the setup worked from the first go and have not experienced any leakage once the tyre was beded with the help of the 2L coke bottle.

    Eager to see how this set up will behave over time.

  • Radiator on, warm rim to above hand hot . Warm tape up Clean rim bed with alcohol wipe warm up Rim with a hair dryer . Get that tape on with a cobblers thumb pressure For two good wraps . Then go read the first of this threadšŸ˜·!

  • Wonder when every one says make sure no bubbles under the tape

    When I apply the tape. If you start with no bubbles, your job on that front is done. To ensure a good bond before exposing the tape to service conditions, I press down on it with a sheet of rubber and a pressure of about 500kPa. It's easiest to do this if you form the rubber sheet into a torus and constrain the part not pushing on the tape with a fabric bag.

  • Can you show me a picture/video with the rubber torus, please?

    My aim was the same, to avoid any bubbles from begining. But, as the tape sits, even with the tumb pressure[not sure if mine is a cobbler's:))] it only properly sticks bubble free on the rim for a width of 6-8mm. Than my tumb cannot properly press agains the joint between the middle channel and its walls so about 2mm are left "loose" untill something smaller is used to fit those areas and push the air out.

  • Can you show me a picture/video with the rubber torus, please?

    This is in the collapsed state for storage, but I'm sure you can imagine how it looks when in use

    1 Attachment

    • conti-tube-race28-60-3.jpg
  • I just put one or two layers tight, the pressure will push the tape on the rim. Never had a problem.

  • Is anyone else having tons of Punctures with Schwalbe G-One Allround MicroSkin TL 700 x 38
    I just keep on having flats, without riding them on anything particularly challenging.. just gentle trails and woodlands etc... And yes have plenty of Stans floating around inside and replenish it etc..

    Need to replace this week, any suggestions for a more useable/puncture resistant option?

  • Do you know if they're the current version or older stock? The compound and sidewall spec was changed 6-9 months ago and is a lot less susceptible to cuts and stuff. When I first used them I would puncture a lot but the current set I'm running have been really excellent despite being treated horribly with low pressures and sharp flint.

  • Crikey, I would have thought they were probably borderline old stock...

  • Think I got them in December

  • Mine seem to puncture if I cycle within 50Ft of a Flint dressed cottage

  • That was new, first time out tubeless and within 3 miles felt like id ridden through a puddle, checked and the back of my bike looked like a plaster's radio but no air loss so success on that front.

    I'm curious, would these leaks that seal have always meant punctures for non tubeless set ups?

    WTB Riddlers have made me very nervous about attempting a long ride on them

  • Managed to set up schwalbe g one all rounds on hydra rims with orange endurance and a track pump today. One of the tyres needed a tube in for a bit before it would seal. Once I put some sealant in they both came up pretty good.

    Two for two on tubeless set ups right now. Seems easy tbh. G ones don't even seem to need tyre levers to get over the rim? I'm yet to have my first tubeless failure on the road though. Look forward to that probably next feburary when it's hammering with rain.

  • Against advice given on here I tried to make my a119 wheels tubeless the other day.

    I should have listened to the advice I was given!

    Tried with Joeā€™s rim strips, duct tape, a 20ā€ tube and pretty much every conceivable combination thereof.

    Think the most frustrating thing was that I got the tyre to seat once with no sealant in it but once I took the bread off and poured sealant in it just wouldnā€™t go back on!

    Wanted to convert the wheels I have as thereā€™s nothing (other than not being tubeless) wrong with them and they are silver rims and finding silver tubeless rims is proving somewhat tricky.

    Thereā€™s velocity a23s but qc seems to be an issue with velocity recently. Cycle clinic have some Ryde Edge R13 but only 1 32h in stock. Similarly they have an Ambrosio rim in silver but only 1 28h and some 20h in stock. Think 20 would be pushing it for gravel riding.

    TLDR: if someone tells you not to bother trying to bodge your wheels tubeless, listen to em.

  • Are Kinlin ADHN tubeless ready?

  • šŸ˜¢

  • Are Kinlin ADHN tubeless ready?

    I think that if 150+ pages of this thread have taught us anything, it's that road cycling is not tubeless-ready

  • Looking increasingly like Iā€™m going to go for Open Pro rims.

    Iā€™d really have liked silver rims but thatā€™s seeming less and less likely.

  • Woo hoo, found some silver Halo rims that are meant to be Kinlin xr22 with some branding so have ordered them from Triton.

    Spokes, sealant, valves and Tessa tape en route from Cycle clinic too.

  • Soz, I've only taken them for one proper ride so far, life getting in the way mostly, but they were a nice ride. As smooth as you'd expect from a 350tpi Italian tyre and they feel nice and grippy both on the bike and if you poke them.

    The problem is I can't get the bloody things to stay up! They don't go down straight away but over a few days they keep going almost completely flat.

    My mechanic friend came round for a beer on Friday night and suggested pumping them up really hard as the bead has never clicked/pinged onto the rims. So I pumped them both to 125psi last night, but they stayed totally silent.

    I think he said the next sensible thing to try is a compressor to see if more rapid inflation helps. I've got access to my LBS one so I can try that, but I'm wondering if it could be the Milkit valves that came with the wheels. Because I've never had any sealant leaks so I'm not convinced it's the tyres...

  • TBH I'm off work this week and taking my bike to Warwickshire for some riding, so right now I'm just wishing I'd bought Veloflex Masters and used the latex inners I've got in the cupboard...

  • Imo if they go flat over a few days put more sealant in and ride them more. The leak must be small, so the sealant should be able to cover it if you can get it into the right spot. Riding normally distributes sealant round the tyre pretty well.

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Tubeless Tyres -"saying the same things about tubeless tyres over and over again" Fucking read the fucking first fucking post.

Posted by Avatar for dancingĀ james @dancingĀ james