• Got some road tubeless drama so I thought I'd share my failures:
    If your valve core feels sticky CHANGE IT for a clean one. Otherwise it may just let the air out as soon as you remove the pump, at the worst time.
    Really high pressure may expel your anchovies or latex at some point.
    Shockingly, air can push latex under a patch of gorilla tape. Make sure you do a proper job when patching from the inside.
    And last but not least, CO2 will make your latex solid and leave just some watery, useless stuff. If you ever have to do it make sure the valve is as far from the sealant as possible. Tough it might be useful to freeze it over a hard to seal hole.

  • The muc off sealant is fine with CO2 according to them

  • Last update on using skinnystrippers on open pros with gravelkings. This really is an incredible solution. The latex liners bond with the bead of the tires forming a proto-tubular setup on a clincher rim. I am able to totally deflate this setup and reinflate with a hand pump. I’m properly impressed. Bo selecta.

  • Surprisingly, that gets rave reviews. I'll give it a try, cheers

  • Went back 10 pages but couldn't find a clear answer. Is there a tubeless conversion kit that's better than others out there? Heard Mariposa stuff might be good.

    Looking to G-Ones on Kinlin rims.

  • I'd recommend Tesa tape, Stans or Hope tubeless valves and either Stans sealant or Caffelatex. Others will have their own preferences, but those have always worked for me.

  • Define better? It can be done with a roll of gorilla tape, valve stems cut from busted tubes and a bottle of stans - or even home brew sealant if inexpensive is your priority :)

  • It can be done with a roll of gorilla tape.

    I have now convinced my shop that we are to buy gorilla tape by the truckload for my workshop, as pounds for pounds, it is not only more economical but much easier to fit on the rims than the Stan's (however good they are).

  • Yeah, we gorilla all the things.

  • You can have a roll of 25mm gorilla black tape for £3-4. The normal, black stuff. It just works better

  • Okay will do that instead then

  • So I just managed to install a 23mm Schwalbe Pro One onto Hunt rims. After my track pump popped and died inflating the Birzman thing, I used a CO2 cannister to seat it. Still wouldn't hold air, seemed to be leaking around the valve despite tightening it with pliers. Added more sealant, spun wheel, now seems to hold, just with hand pump. Muc-Off sealant so far seems better than Stans as this failed before. Advice on better strategies welcomed.

  • Easy to setup? I used Tesa but it was hard to get smooth, not sticky like gorilla tape, and probably too wide in my case.

  • I used normal plastic rim tape plus a couple of passes of electrical tape. Then installed a couple of these http://skinnystripper.com pushing them into the bed. Valve in, a spritz of water to help the tyre glide over the latex and into the rim, tires on and inflated with a track pump. It’s worth noting I had the tires on the wheels with tubes inflated to maximum pressure for five days prior to installation to push out any kinks in the bead.

  • How hard/easy is it to mount tyres?

  • Pretty bastard hard....I inherited the 23mm when I bought the wheels, will change to 28/30mm once it's worn out. I did use a plastic lever, I realise that might stretch the bead. The tyre wasn't new, but it went completely flat and after I took it off there was a hole in the rim tape, so I re-taped, probably using Tesa that was too wide in hindsight - presumably that isn't catastrophic now?

  • Of note, I bought the Lezyne pump off Bikester online, who seem happy to simply refund me now. Answered emails promptly and all...

  • Pretty bastard hard.

    And the fact it's 23mm doesn't help too.

    Wide rims tape shouldn't be a problem, unless it's likely to push the tyres bead off the rims, I find a proper coverage work wonder allowing the tyres to "slide" on the tape until it hit the hook.

  • Maybe, it's certainly a learning curve after many years of tubes. I also realise that 23mm is fairly pointless to run tubeless, I wouldn't trust that low a pressure having dinged a rim on a pothole recently. But no punctures so far.

  • I used 3m powder coaters masking tape on recommendation from a friend. It's really easy to install, you can pull it really tight and it conforms to the rim bed well. Light adhesive too so you can reposition it easily if it starts going crooked. The 25mm wide roll is the perfect width for archetypes too.

  • Anyone know where sells Gorilla tape in east London?

  • The best advice I’ve been given (although I’m yet to test it but it makes complete sense) is once you’ve seated the tyre and added sealant as you’ve done so far. Give the week a good shake and ideally a quick ride up the road and back to distribute the sealant around the tyre, then place the wheel horizontally on something like a bucket or a bowl that will allow it to lay perfectly level and let the sealant sit and get right into the bead all the way around the tyre, leave it for 30-60 minutes then flip it and repeat. I’ve been told - albeit only anecdotally - that this all but eliminates the usual ‘overnight loss of pressure’ tyre problems that sometimes occur.

    I’ll be trying to the next time I set up a set of tubeless tyres - would be good to hear if anyone else has tried it.

  • Wilco usually have it.

  • Great suggestion. Thanks

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Tubeless Tyres -"saying the same things about tubeless tyres over and over again" The unofficial title of this thread. Read the first post

Posted by Avatar for dancing james @dancing james